Building Materials and Construction Technology
alexander___: [citat] Saw this now and picture 2 is exactly what I want to do. However, it seems strange that it's 180cm and larger openings that should be considered. https://www.traguiden.se/planering/planera-ett-trabygge/projektering-av-trahus---generellt/projektering-av-trahus---generellt/oppningar-i-trakonstruktioner/
SusannaRi: [citat] Hi Lisa, we're considering bidding on a house that has a "certain chemical smell" and we're very interested in the house but after reading a lot - also of course worried about how much cost might actually be added. Here the problem seems to be in the hallway and in one of the rooms but the sills have not been replaced for example.. I was glad to scroll and see that you found a good
plåtrickard: But it is probably nailed to the threshold
Eld: In my house built in '42, there is Treetex on the inside of the exterior walls to even out the planks and insulate. Some of the ceilings also have Treetex. On the interior walls, the planks are covered with masonite. I have seen asfaboard used for the blind bottom in crawl spaces into the 1990s.
DW79: [citat] Yes, just need some type of spacer since the window rests on top of the "karm" so you need to raise the bracket a few mm. Thanks.
Richie.se: [citat] Haha, double typical! I thought I was being helpful! Thanks then 😆
Stefan N: https://woody.se/innemiljo/interior/interior-tra/tralister/behandlade/ehl-prolist-15x56x4400-mm-sockel-kabelspar-furu-vit
BirgitS: Yes, the wall needs to be supported when you remove the beam.
heimlaga: It becomes most stable if the supports are placed at an angle so they directly support the wall band.
Json_: Hello, We are planning to build a carport next to the neighbor's existing carport. We want to place our posts as close to theirs as possible, but it depends somewhat on the size and shape of the neighbor's posts. Are they completely straight, conical, or just a large concrete block? The only thing I've managed to find is this drawing where I can't see any measurements of the post itself. Does
Joak: Tear out the subfloor, level the joists with battens that you screw and glue to the side of the existing joist. Insulate, then just lay the grooved chipboard.
mgranbom: When we renovated, the carpenters placed joists across the stairs, from the upper floor. You already have an edge at the wall to place them on (if it is stable enough). Then they laid planks over the joists and put a step ladder on it when needed. /M
cpalm: Check out https://www.torn.se/, just ordered a bunch of nails at outright robbery prices.
SWEBMA: [citat] we had a marten in the attic at the cottage last year, a young marten fell down the stairs in the middle of the night, had to carry it back up, had no mice in the attic (but they made a lot of noise when they played)
TechChad: Slightly clearer overall pictures might help in getting better ideas. But I would aim to buy a similar "window" to then modify it with some type of hinge. This way it can be easily restored. Alternatively, if hinges can't be added, perhaps it could work with some mount so it can be easily unhooked?
Bo arnold: It takes a lot of spackel but it's worth it.
g.kraft: [citat] Looks quite doubtful, you can probably make some efforts and perhaps get another year out of it, but it's probably better to cast a new one. The reinforcement has probably taken some damage and quite a lot has fallen out. You can certainly retain the railing. You have a good summer project there :) if you can't cast, you can practice on a pizza oven, smoker, or grill first as that might
Joak: [citat] Get those who cast the slab to come there and redo it. It doesn't look like it was done professionally.
Elinaelina: Looking for the name of this type of staircase. That is, a concrete staircase that is precast and doesn't reach the ground on the sides. What is this type of staircase called? 😀
13th Marine: It is important that the drainage can handle everything and that the water can flow away. Hence my question if there was water in the drainage.
Timmermannen77: I did a job where the customer wanted to keep the masonite; it was completely dry, with no moisture damage. Only dusty, the spacing of the roof battens was correct. So it was very cost-effective for the customer. Of course, new metal details everywhere. The fabric is used very often in the assembly halls; the advantage is that it covers the roofs quickly with it.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] You don't need to plaster the surface, but it's never wrong to fill the joints between the bricks to reinforce it and avoid drafts if that's a problem.. Remove all loose mortar and refill the masonry joints, and it will be good😊
PG Lindgren: [citat] Thanks! Talked to a painter friend who said roughly the same thing you're saying. The VP-rör goes to a ceiling box 150 cm away, but smart thought to mark it 🙏
axxa: For those interested, I went to check out the "timber frame" in Trosa that was for sale on Blocket, but the logs/beams were either too short or rotten... I also stopped by Beijer and checked out the rafters, which were unexpectedly nice - rough-sawn with natural cracks. I'll go with these. Thanks for the tips!
SenStart: Hello, I have bricked up a basement window since it was broken and will be under a patio. What I'm considering when I plaster inside, since there is about 15 cm to plaster, is placing foam insulation between the concrete blocks and the plaster (see image) for filling, but is this just a silly idea? Is it better to plaster in several rounds instead?
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Plaster mortar works, but it becomes more homogeneous with traditional plaster as he has on the remaining parts of the wall. If it had been shallower and minor damage, I would also have just used plaster mortar😊 Low-alkali C-mortar is what you need against lightweight concrete if you choose plaster indoors.
Totte_S: Agree that wooden stairs can become quite slippery, was close to a fracture this morning. I think workingclasshgero's solution is great, considering it myself. Otherwise, we've used rag rugs or chicken wire. I think plaster mesh might be more sensible than chicken wire. One has to consider if one wants a year-round solution or if one is willing to put winter tires even on the entrance.