Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bulten37: Updating in case someone else is wondering about the same thing. I tried gluing the door frame with Casco Superfix+. Applied pressure with brackets in between with something soft on the ends. They are definitely holding strong. [bild]
senegym: Hi! I want to build a small insert between my wardrobes with a little seating area and a mirror on the back. I want to make this insert entirely out of wood, like oak or another type of wood that gets a nice grain after treatment. My problem is that I can't find where to buy panels in wood material. What I always find are: countertops, edge-glued panels, or MDF covered with veneer. Can't you buy
stenna: Casco Husfix probably works to attach the stones with
deas34: So crazy that I found this thread after Googling just Laxåplattan, found boxes with that name in the attic last week and realized it was the insulation I was tearing out 🥵
Matti_75: Well, consider that it should be sealed tightly under the threshold so that any water doesn't flow in. Soft sealant on the outside, then.
kniv: We had similar problems when we took down a wall in a 70s house. White gypsum in one room and those boards in the other. Then we simply put a wider white, smooth trim/molding over the joint, and said that we'll fix it later when we change the entire ceiling. It's been like that for three years now and we haven't been bothered by how it looks even once…
Ulltand: It is not the heating itself that is most critical here, but the moisture load at colder temperatures. For example, do you have plants there that are watered during spring and autumn? I don't have a direct answer to the question, but a vapor barrier might provide the least risk and the greatest flexibility for use.
taiträ123: [citat] So it's only 60 cm below ground? That was a shallow basement. I have probably the reverse situation. Steel studs and some panels with insulation were considered, but since I have an exterior that hasn't been drained in a long time, there's a bit of moisture penetration sometimes. I wanted to keep it open. Then, at the time, I was pretty tired of building, so it was easier to have someone
Maja4: I need tips on How to get rid of cold floors and drafts? Risks of installing waterborne floor heating on wooden joists over a crawl space. I have had a house for a year that was built in several stages between around 1930 and 1966. Half of the house, kitchen, hall, and bathroom, has a crawl space with an old, stone-lined pantry underneath. All the walls of the house are additionally insulated.
BirgitS: [citat] I just saw that BKR has written a specific document with guidelines for large tiles, so maybe you can decide for yourself if it's something you can handle: https://www.bkr.se/regler-material/riktlinjer/riktlinjer-for-storformatiga-plattor
AXS: Would not build a wall with 45x45, but 45x70 "wrong" way might be okay if every centimeter counts. 45x45 is usually very warped, not good to build with...
Hns235: Okay just before I was about to throw away the packaging for the blade, I found an instruction manual in it. Good to keep in mind: reduction rings are not always allowed and the thickness matters, installation instructions for fixed bush rings that are pressed in place according to one of the images here.
Jan Ika: [citat] Seems reasonable with Nämdöfjärden just outside 🙂
Dr Benz: [citat] That's what I think too. Yes, a vent will be installed on the same wall as the fireplace. That way, fresh air is drawn through the house to the toilets, which are on the other end of the house, and likewise if the fireplace is burning, cold air is not drawn through the entire room but hopefully only along that wall.
sultanen1: Do you think so? 😀 of course, one can try to loosen the screws and see if it moves heavily and try to put weight on that side of the stairs.
husreno777: [citat] Dejetra.se
Utsliten och utdömd: I hope and believe that the openings have a whole log even at the bottom below the floor level. If so, it's probably only the large one in the living room that connects to the gable wall that is causing direct concern. How does it look on the outside? Are vertical followers installed? Even if there are no headers in the smaller openings, the logs don't seem to be giving way, and if they start, it
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Repairs on concrete stone are challenging aesthetically... Stones like yours are usually not reinforced... But if the damage isn't too deep, you can use cement mortar-A for repairs; if it's deeper, you'll need to set up a board as a mold and cast with fine concrete... Just make sure to clean thoroughly beforehand😊
Haz6909: Hello I assume that in this image from Träguiden, they show 3 different examples of how to achieve EL30 by either using GtA gypsum, Plywood/OSB, or Particleboard?
nino12: I used old self-leveling compound that I laid tiles on. It mixed well and flowed out nicely, so I thought it was fine to use despite being old. The bag had been unopened in an outdoor shed for a few years. It looked a bit strange once it had set and had quite a few holes in it, but what I was more concerned about was the strange odor. I thought it might disappear over time, and the appearance
Erik9005: Third person stuck in this, how did you two solve it? :)
AndersS: [citat] And it was two years ago the OP finished the work, silly to tear everything down today and redo it...
Anonymiserad 405730: It is a flat sheet that has holes where it bends/folds, so the spackle will not adhere to the smooth sheet. You need to fill in with something like gypsum mortar so that the angle becomes correct and then glue on a paper strip or something like microlit fabric in the angle, which is then spackled with regular spackle.
Fällebyggarn: Yes, I'm not going to have a moulding following the sloped ceiling downwards, but a block in the corner might still be the way to prove that one has a grasp of the angles and their impossibility to turn out well.
Anonymiserad 405730: Steel studs work well, but you might want to use some type of minerit/cemberit board instead that is not moisture-sensitive...
Liljeros: I interpret it as intended to be a DIY solution, but I would say that this is something one should still bring in a structural engineer for. They will then prescribe the attachment method; it should also be reported if you plan to demolish the load-bearing wall. Otherwise, there is a risk of problems when selling the house in the future.
Per72: [citat] Interesting idea. A bit interested in trying that. Are the boards still hanging?
Anonymiserad 405730: It depends on how much the crown molding protrudes from the wall and how much your panels build? Otherwise, it looks best to mount the crown and baseboard on top of the acoustic panel.
alexander___: [citat] Saw this now and picture 2 is exactly what I want to do. However, it seems strange that it's 180cm and larger openings that should be considered. https://www.traguiden.se/planering/planera-ett-trabygge/projektering-av-trahus---generellt/projektering-av-trahus---generellt/oppningar-i-trakonstruktioner/