Building Materials and Construction Technology
h3mm4frun: Now I have opened up the ceiling, and the pillars are not load-bearing. However, I wonder if anyone knows what "supports" the staircase. Is it leaning against one of the floor joists for the upper floor or?
elpaco: [citat] We arranged a lift-in of a 160cm bed on the second floor with a wheel loader. It cost a cake. Straight in through the big windows.
MagHam: They are not "just screwed on the edge" but in all likelihood nailed in a few rows in the middle as well. If you don't need to remove them, leave them be. Otherwise, carefully piece by piece without breaking too much.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] One typically doesn't place a wooden sole directly against a wooden floor without gluing in between to avoid movement noise… But foam probably works well in combination with screwing the sole, so it should be fine…
Queen15: [citat] Thanks for all the engagement from all of you!! It worked great to glue directly to the wall without leveling the wall first. Uneven areas were solved by using extra glue in the spots that otherwise didn't touch the wall, so to speak. Had to "unfold" some panels and add extra glue when we saw a gap. Used many tubes of construction adhesive PL400. But the result turned out great.
Tompafix: [citat] Are you sure it’s a drywall? Not very common in the 1950s. But if it is, it could simply be that some studs were warped during installation. One way to fix it is to just screw new studs onto the old ones. That way, you get a vertical wall if you install them correctly.
Isabelle Norén: [citat] Maybe they aren't from the 1940s, I just assumed so because they sit in frames that in turn "sit" naturally in the house's construction 😅👌🏻 Could they have been replaced a few decades later maybe?🧐
Stefan1972: I'm sure it works even if it's not about any huge flows of air. It still moves, and I assume you're not planning to settle out there or build a spa with a shower.
Chnorin: Hello! We live in a small (7x10m) house with a wooden frame built in '42, with a basement. We are now going to renovate this (not the basement floor). The house has settled somewhat, and the floor slopes slightly in most rooms. Our idea has been to tear up the floor, remove all the insulation, and then install new beams against the old ones to level the floor. A builder instead suggested we leave
Anonymiserad 405730: Internally, it is 900mm above finished floor..
Karrock: I have something similar. Spring/fall glass, roof with paper, rough-hewn timber, battens/insulation, plastic, and interior paneling. Underfloor heating in the slab, but not connected. "Exhibition carpet squares" on the floor. The paneling on the ceiling and walls is made of MDF, which I painted myself with interior paint. Since the construction in 2016, I haven't had any mold/growth on the paint.
Liljeros: The product is not available either as standard or special. If you want it ready, you need to get help from a planing mill or carpentry, otherwise, you plane it yourself or as someone above wrote, sandpaper.
Larsa: Indoors had been worrying, outdoors=it can be like that... Wash off in the summer and paint. If you live in an exposed area, it can grow back. I myself have a house by a large bay and the moisture takes its toll, have to wash after a couple of years if you want it spotless.
nimhed: [citat] Hmm, a 6mm ply tongue is not a bad idea. Thanks for that thought!
Glasmästaren: I have tried googling around but there isn't much clear information about stoves + calcium silicate boards. Does anyone know if you can putty the boards with regular hand putty and then sand and paint with silicate paint?
Thomas_Blekinge: The son built a workbench with 2x3 studs. To make it stable, it's important to have proper corner screws and diagonal braces. The apron was made with 3x2, with a thick plywood board on top. I usually cover the surface with white milk paper that I attach with a staple gun. I change to a fresh surface about twice a year. The milk paper also serves as a temporary notepad. The table stands on wheels.
svenstad: I don't remember exactly, but maybe 1+6 (6 parts water and one part from the drum of hydrochloric acid I bought at the paint shop). If you feel this is too weak, try stronger. The total amount of water was probably just over 10 liters.
Harald Blåtumme: Learned a lot here in this thread, clips included! I had no idea, I thought it was normal to have to hammer together forcefully... maybe I was just lucky that it went so well with my nailed ceiling without panel clips. Perhaps partly an effect of how machine nails (T-nails) are designed; they have a tendency to dig in slightly, for example into the MDF board that is the base for Huntonit panels,
a_w: At the stage you're at now, it's best to frame with insulation. The sound is better dampened by loosely packed insulation, so don't press too much in.
Elin Kamel: [citat] The inspector did not approve it because it extended over the edge of the kitchen island and there was a power outlet there. If it had been somewhere else, it would have been approved, according to him. But anyway, our problem was solved. It was just so surprising that none of the people I spoke to who sold the kitchen or their supplier for faucets could find a faucet that fit. But maybe
Anonymiserad 405730: Yes, you are absolutely right in your analyses, gips är det😊
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Don't mix too much the first time as it sets quite quickly, but gipsbruk is easy to scrape if it's half-hard and bränner ifrån dig…
Anders_cc: No snow guard rails, most of it slides off the roof. Yes, easy to shovel. Maybe reinforce the beam with the central column load (green sketch) and the other two beams you suggested, as well as laminated beams/joists as my basic idea. If the beams sag over time, they can probably be supported more. I believe/hope the roof won't cave in. I'm wondering if this solution with the above
Biggle: [citat] we skipped the subfloor boards, felt too sensitive to moisture when we don't have moisture barriers. And regular 17mm tongue-and-groove boards were much cheaper… Of course, you can lay a floating click parquet, but if you want the option to work more with patterns etc., then solid wood is superior.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] A heart from me, I didn't find one in copper...
Nyatag: How has it gone with drainage and the hidden fault?
Uffe A: https://www.hornbach.se/p/jd-plus-universalskruv-pan-head-4-5x60-mm-torxfaste-galv-forzinkad-100st/6833917/ This screw in suitable length will fit securely if it's concrete or brick, so use a plug If it's plasterboard, use a molly plug
Matti_75: Yes, it was common and is common. Just grind forward or pull new visible
Lurging: Hi. I am going to remove a 3-meter-long wall inside a workshop and must then transfer the load from the roof structure in another way. The plan is to use two 2x8 C24 beams, which will be loaded with a point load approximately in the middle. They will be supported with a distance of 3 meters and locked so that they cannot sag. Can someone calculate how large a point load in the middle these two