Building Materials and Construction Technology
Workingclasshero: Hello I bought in the fall to be prepared for spring. Stacked the decking boards neatly at the bottom and the joists on top, also neatly stacked. Then I strapped the package with ratchet straps so I could retighten. Topped it with some joists and laid metal sheeting on top, covering everything with a tarp, ensuring it's well-ventilated and only keeping out snow. I also bought 25% extra so I could
sinuslinus: You should reduce floor drafts if you insulate along the exterior walls. Settled insulation in the beam framework is usually a major cause of floor drafts in old houses.
Kardan79: Hello! I was in the middle of building a closet in the hallway when it dawned on me that I don't really know what I can do to prevent cracking in the corners where the new wall connects to the existing walls. For obvious reasons, I can't fit an angle profile inside the plasterboard on the existing walls... Grateful for tips!!!
raveper: [citat] Snip it off and push it in. Then replace with a new one.
Roga1337: ...or in just one hole... since I would have concealed a hole with some type of handle.😉 https://swe.grandado.com/products/nordiska-enkla-dolda-dorrhandtag-rostfritt-stal-infalld-infalld-skap-osynlig-rund-dorrhandtag-dra-hardvara
Anonymiserad 405730: Have experienced old houses with falor that have had masonite on the falor and then battens and roof tiles, maybe the house is one of those...
Lutte: The big holes can be filled with some broken pieces from a lecablock together with some repair mortar from finja, and then plastered over with the same repair mortar. For the small damage, you can directly apply the mortar. I think it can work just as well with type mortar b or plaster mortar since you don't need any special strength.
Matti_75: [citat] Yes, he has done it completely right.
cpalm: [citat] Well, now I don't know for sure if that's true, but in many places, you can read that a silicate paint can contain a maximum of 5% acrylate to be called silicate paint. The problem if TS has applied acrylic paint is that pure silicate paint or for that matter lime paint does not adhere to it.
MPilen: [citat] Yes, it will have to be something like that. There's also going to be an electrical panel above the distribution cabinet, so it'll be a bit tricky to fit everything together. I'll get back with the results :)
zarkov: The boards are called tongue and groove exterior paneling, base panel, or z-panel and can be found at well-stocked lumberyards. The exact designation depends on the cross-section; it’s best if you can bring a piece to the dealer to show. Common dimensions are 22x95 or 22x120. Note that they fit into each other a bit, so the board is a little wider than what you see. If you know the front and
Trelleborgbyggaren: [citat] Hi, how's it going with the door and window in the clay brick wall? Have you started demolishing the wall?
trojlee: The wall will crack when the closets on the other side are used. I would have put up a frame and then plasterboarded.
Timmermannen77: Seems to be some type of sandwich element or sandwich panel
pjkw: [citat] Yes I do, the goal with the drywall rasp is to create a similar recess as there is on the long side, and when that is done I treat it just the same as the long side.
fatsug: [citat] Great, thanks for the tip! I've emailed them with a proposal. //Gustaf
Spiken i kistan: [citat] Speaking of testers, yesterday I melted beeswax flakes in paraffin oil and rubbed them into a newly made cutting board. Excited to see the result today after it has soaked in a bit.
Skalman9: Thank you for the reply... [citat] Thank you for the reply. Our front door has some kind of stained paint over it that smells, but I wanted to see if it could have been a pressure-treated frame instead. But then it must be some oil paint or something. Need to scrape it off and paint with good paint.
Lillahusetpånorrby: Can anyone tell me how to frame next to a chimney stack? We are renovating a house built in the 30s that previously had wooden studs and wooden kitchen cabinets screwed directly to the chimney. Tiled stoves, etc., that have been connected to the chimney's flue channels were approved and used until we began renovating. We now want to frame the same wall next to the chimney and put up new kitchen
Appendix: Did you get a reply from the professor 😉 My advice is to build according to proven methods in svetige, loose timber and classic facade covering with paneling is cheapest in the long run. There is a reason why almost all houses are built this way and not with masonite. Masonite feels more like something you see in homeless camps.
Matti_75: Jacket out for the flanges and screw it through the sheet into the trät. There are kortlingshållare and special boxes for steel studs as well.
lunnabo: [citat] Better if you try to endeavor to explain your hazy train of thought.
Mattias Andreasson: At my place, Fiber Reinforced Base Plaster from Sto has been used, https://byggkatalogen.byggtjanst.se/produkt/byggmaterial/bruk-bindemedel/bruk/putsbruk/stolevell-cote-f-grundputs/81823 No extra reinforcement/net for a surface similar to your window recess, the first surface I plastered, and even though it took a long time to get the plaster to stick because I used the wrong technique, there is
jonasnjonasn: [citat] Ah thanks. Considering some anchor mass as well.
MathiasS: The variants I have in the picture drill too slowly in metal when they are made for wood, but there might be other brands that are better.
jbernspang: [citat] Sounds likely. Impossible to know when moving into an existing house, but a factor that would be very important for me.
bygges: [citat] Maybe you have to accept some compromise? You are working in a structure that is anything but precise from the start. Even modern houses have, like, 120 studs that have warped over the years so interior walls become slightly banana-shaped, etc. It seems doubtful to aim for everything being completely straight and perpendicular.