I was thinking of trying to replace the sill plates on the house. My wall studs are attached directly to the sill. How do you go about lifting the house in the simplest way when replacing the sill? We are going to replace the sill plates from the outside and my idea was to use two 10 or 20-ton hydraulic jacks and then fasten studs horizontally and vertically on the outside somehow, then lift and replace the sill bit by bit about 2 meters at a time. But does anyone have a good drawing or description on how to do this in the best way, meaning the attachment of the studs on the outside of the house and the lifting process?
and... is it better to replace the sill on an entire side of the house at once instead of taking 2 meters at a time?? Does it make a difference in durability?
and... is it better to replace the sill on an entire side of the house at once instead of taking 2 meters at a time?? Does it make a difference in durability?
The question is whether jacks are needed.
Remember that the house is designed for snow load.
If you have roof tiles, it obviously weighs quite a bit.
When I looked, the carpenter replaced the sill beneath three studs at a time without jacking up or anything similar. But it was a house with a felt roof, without snow load.
But to be honest, he did jack up when he started the job, but he ignored it at the end.
But maybe you can replace without a jack under one stud at a time.
Remember that the house is designed for snow load.
If you have roof tiles, it obviously weighs quite a bit.
When I looked, the carpenter replaced the sill beneath three studs at a time without jacking up or anything similar. But it was a house with a felt roof, without snow load.
But to be honest, he did jack up when he started the job, but he ignored it at the end.
But maybe you can replace without a jack under one stud at a time.
Thanks for the tip! I have a metal roof on my house, and it's only a 1-story extension where the sill replacement is to be done, so the weight of the extension itself is not very heavy. But if you only replace under one stud at a time, won't the sill pieces be very short and will the sill be as stable compared to using longer sill pieces?
The fact that the sill consists of smaller pieces does not matter. The important thing is to remove the damaged parts, so sometimes you may need to remove a portion of the wall studs and splice them. Start by removing a part of the sill on the part of the house where any potential settling will cause the least damage, so you can see how stable the structure is. Avoid doing this under a window or where you have a high load. However, before doing this, mark the height carefully on the studs or wall so that you can adjust the height with a jack or wooden shims if necessary.
What I have observed is that during sill replacement, it's often (not always) the case that the studs are not anchored securely to the sill. This is usually because only shims have been used between the wall studs and the sill. So if your house is sensitive to wind loads, you should anchor the studs to the new sill, which you have of course already anchored to the supporting structure. Restraint straps or special steel studs work well.
What I have observed is that during sill replacement, it's often (not always) the case that the studs are not anchored securely to the sill. This is usually because only shims have been used between the wall studs and the sill. So if your house is sensitive to wind loads, you should anchor the studs to the new sill, which you have of course already anchored to the supporting structure. Restraint straps or special steel studs work well.
how do you splice the studs? Need to replace part of my studs about 1 meter up and wonder if you just attach a stud on the side or what is best
kirderf83: There is a good post here on the forum about it: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/155294-hur-skarva-reglar-vid-syllbyte-bild.html
I was thinking of going with the first option, but using a support beam on both sides of the beam. Then I also planned to put in a few whole beams since my impression is that if a beam has started to rot, it might continue to do so, and then it's just as well to put a completely new beam next to it to avoid opening and replacing it again in the future, or is that dumb? Does anyone know more/better?
I was thinking of going with the first option, but using a support beam on both sides of the beam. Then I also planned to put in a few whole beams since my impression is that if a beam has started to rot, it might continue to do so, and then it's just as well to put a completely new beam next to it to avoid opening and replacing it again in the future, or is that dumb? Does anyone know more/better?
titanium: Thanks for the tips! One question though. I've been trying to figure out how to mark the height. I'm probably just being stupid, but better to ask than to make a mistake. Can you explain further how to mark the height? Now I've torn down everything so that only the sill, studs, and interior walls are left in the areas where I need to replace the sill (the panel needed to be replaced anyway). The interior wall is nailed to the stud, so if I mark the height on it, it will move with any lift, or am I thinking incorrectly now?
You saw off the "broken" joist a good distance from the damage, how much I'm unsure, but a guess is around half a meter from the visible damage, with hussvamp, I think I read 1m. Then you saw a new piece that is as long as the one you removed and put it in place. Finally, to compensate for the joist being "off," you have strips of 12mm construction plywood (Buy a 12mm sheet and saw out a number of strips the same width as the joists) on each side of the joist, securing them with many screws. Now you have "splinted" the old joist.
If you remove the studs on a larger part of the wall at the same time, it will likely settle. Mark with a tight string on the studs along the entire outside of the wall. From corner to corner of the house, for example. Mark the height on all the studs. Then you can easily see if you need to adjust with a jack or wedges. There's also colored marking string, known as chalk line, so that you can get a colored straight line on all the studs. (convenientdaysconfused said:
) Then it's easy to tighten up a regular uncolored string in the same way. If there's a difference between the color marking on the stud and the string, it's easy to see and adjust.When my parents switched, the firm braced both outside and inside. They swapped longer pieces at a time and from the inside.
On the other hand, it never hurts to be cautious; personally, I would brace even if I were only replacing one stud at a time (it can't hurt).
On the other hand, it never hurts to be cautious; personally, I would brace even if I were only replacing one stud at a time (it can't hurt).
Now the sill replacement was complete! It took 2 days, and everything went surprisingly well. We replaced about 2.5 meters at a time and used 3 props to support at each joist. However, we didn't lift the house; we just supported it to prevent any settling. I was surprised by how simple this job was. I've heard from a few companies that replace sills and they advised against doing it myself because there's so much that can go wrong, but as long as you think it through and take it slow and careful, this job is no problem.
Placed the props next to the beams with about 1.5 meters distance between each prop. The side where I replaced was an extension that was only 4.5 meters long, so it required only 3 props. On the other side where I replaced, I only needed to replace half of the sill, and it was 4 meters, and I used only 2 props there. However, I think it would have been fine even without the props, but it felt safe to have them there and it only cost 5 SEK per day to rent them, so it felt well worth the money.
