Building Materials and Construction Technology
a_w: I did a similar renovation a few years ago in a 1960s villa. The door opening was 100cm wide. The wall was made of concrete blocks, and above the door there was a concrete beam that was cast together with a reinforced concrete slab. It was a lot of work to cut the opening for these extra 10 cm in height. From a structural perspective, this was not a problem since the beam was cast together with
torparavgrund: I would have skipped the plastic and just laid gray paper under the laminate. Be prepared for it to take forever to get it even and without bounce, depending on how meticulous you are. The moisture pressure downward is very small, and on the contrary, it looks like this mold has grown because moisture has settled there without being able to dry out—perhaps because there's been too tight a floor
ricebridge: Depends on how picky you plan to be and what kind of panel it is. The best thing, of course, is to warm up and let the panel acclimatize. If it's tongue and groove, however, the problems aren't as significant. The tonguing is designed to prevent gaps when the wood moves.
joakim_j: Spontaneously, I would guess that you place the pipe with a bend downwards so that the lowest point is below the house's level, then make drainage holes at the bottom of the protective pipe. But that's what you call a rough guess.
ROINE Hellström: [citat] Ventilation problem
Vector: Presumably the one with a pump is for stormwater/drainage. The other cleaning pipe is for the sewage from the house.
Albin95an: [citat] [citat] Now you might have sparked something new. Couldn't one do something similar with an old rim, an anchor, or the like in our mud so that it might not sink as deeply? It might be practically impossible to get it up once it's set in the clay, but it should stand more firmly and perhaps be easier to straighten up in the spring?
Kuddes67: Is it possible to install a door at an existing window and thereby remove the space under the window (which is made of lightweight concrete)? No widening of the opening, it will remain the same size as the window, i.e., 90 cm.
mannenbrus: Going to install leveling in my basement. Metal studs on the walls. But in what order? Thanks in advance
Mattsan33: Thank you - exactly the kind of guide I was looking for! //M
Martfran: I plastered a corner recently and now one side has come loose in some places and bubbled up, how do I remove the entire strip on both sides? If it had come loose while it was still wet, it probably would have been enough to just pull it off, but now it's already dried.
ricebridge: Guaranteed best to drain first! Then set up a dehumidifier for a few months.
kvirre: [citat] I have personally used Alcro Bestå to match the house. But you must prime properly. I would probably do as previously suggested: get all new lumber. It's not that many meters we're dealing with. Cut all the pieces and then treat them with some type of wood oil. Especially the end grain, which can ideally be dipped in the oil. After that, let the oil dry thoroughly and apply a layer of
koze: [citat] Platon's Komfortskiva is XPS though, isn't XPS often used in floors and walls? https://www.isola.se/produkter/gulv-og-grunn/fuktsperre/skjulte-produkter/tilbehor-fuktsperre/komfortplate
Brevduva: [citat] Go to the local paint shop and ask if they have a 'stripper' to borrow/rent. It cuts away glue clumps and mat residues smoothly and easily. Renovation wallpaper is expensive and becomes wasted money on that surface. Glue and mat residues must be removed.
jehr: I am preparing some materials needed for the woodshed. I'm considering whether to use foundation piers or if it's enough to just dig up the top layer of topsoil, fill in with gravel, then tamp it down a bit myself, and then use paving stones with sill paper for the posts to rest on. Thoughts? I think the woodshed will be heavy and there's no risk of it blowing away even if it stands freely on
fekberg: [citat] That's also a good point! Had I known what I know today, I would never have chosen cellular plastic. I'm leaning towards putting a couple of scraps at the bottom and just laying mineral wool on it.
jonaserik: You push up a wire 30 cm or similar into the drill hole, when you reach up, you find it. Otherwise, you have to be a grävling to find it. You become disoriented up there.
Rabbithole: Is this how you intended to assemble it? [bild]
byggeskafram: [citat] Always glue the extensions and that's how it's done in construction too. Then it stays put! I think like you that OSB is not that important. New homes are probably built with just drywall. Have even seen it in bathrooms 😎 It's not wrong to put some nail plugs through the parquet if for some reason it's torn up in ten years.
Romawi: [citat] Hi! Have you sealed it yet and if so, how did you address the problem?
Sson85: Notably, walls in addition to being load-bearing for a roof structure can also be so-called heart walls (can also be called load-bearing walls), and some walls do not need to be load-bearing but can take up side loads in the structure. Any compensations of walls should be calculated by a structural engineer.
jonaserik: Are you going to tear everything down to the bottom and head to recycling, then take everything that's printed, you can't tell what's what when it's old.
Stefan N: Should have installed a new roof with more slope, just need a little more so the water runs off. Simply sealing the joints will probably last for about fifteen minutes or so.
sepani: [citat] Yes. But I'm not sure why it's a problem (?) for the foundations to go above ground level? I was planning on that since I want my posts not to stand in water? My idea is to buy 700 mm foundations where I'll attach the bracket? That way I can adjust the height a bit if needed, and I also have the option to attach something to the posts for the pergola. If a 700 mm foundation is too weak, I
GBV: [citat] Thank you for your response! I'll have to figure out how I can access to see in and identify the first one and make a new hole, but a good start! 😊
neo11: I say the same, read up before you write. What is it you don't understand and what type of usage are you referring to for impregnation? You don't use impregnation in any form on lime mortar or kc mortar in ordinary conditions. It is suggested to paint with lime paint, but if it's near lakes or exposed, silicate might be better. Why would one even consider applying it, what is gained? More than