Beginner question: Renovate fence

[MrsShaw]

When painting fences, it is important that the paint allows the wood to breathe, as all sides are painted. Acrylic paints act like a raincoat, causing the wood to sweat = the paint peels off. Alkyd paints are somewhat in between, and linseed oil paint or Falu red paint allows the wood to breathe best.
If you want to keep your project on a budget without discarding the entire fence, I would suggest replacing the posts and slats as you see fit and painting with linseed oil paint to give it a similar appearance to the existing ones. The risk, however, is that one applies the paint in too thick layers, causing it to dry from the outside, and sooner or later you might have to do a lot of scraping to repaint.
Falu red paints are more convenient as you only need to brush or blow them off when it's time to repaint.
I am considering trying a lasyra paint that penetrates more into the wood on our pressure-treated fence, which has now been standing for about 2.5 years. But that combo with your existing might look a little strange...

 

[johnsilver]

Hello!

I'm planning to start renovating our fence, where some of the horizontal boards ("liggers") have rotted, and this has spread to some of the vertical boards ("ribbor"). Sorry if I'm using incorrect terms here, hope you understand.

[image]

Being a beginner, I have a few questions:

Of course, I want to avoid the problem from occurring again. What should I consider?
* Pressure-treated wood isn't a good option, I guess, because it can't be painted directly?
* I've heard you should oil the ends of the liggers to prevent them from rotting from the ends. Is that true, or is it better to just paint them? If I should oil, what type of oil?
* Anything else to keep in mind?

Then, there's the mounting of the ends. It's currently done with angle irons, which have been recessed into the ends of the liggers. This avoids the gap between the ligger and the part to which the ligger is attached (post or wall in the picture). I suppose I should do the same with the new liggers.

* How do you make such a recess? Going at it with a chisel doesn't seem right; it probably needs to be routed out, but with what type of tool?

Finally: When I remove the old angle irons, a number of old screw holes will be "opened" up.

* Should I seal those screw holes with something, and if so, with what?

[image][image]

All good advice is gratefully received It doesn't necessarily have to be answers to my questions above.

/Fredrik

I have made sections that I screw down and renovate; all ends are standing in a mixture of kerosene and linseed oil. The ends against the ground are cut at a 45-degree angle at least 200 mm above ground to avoid absorbing water from the soil, and for the top part, I have booked stainless steel sheet as protection against rain. The rails are also cut at a 45-degree angle and painted before they are nailed on, and then I paint everything once more.

 

[kvirre]

The same color as the facade is painted with I guess (it was done before we moved in), Alcro Bestå. Do you mean that fences require a different paint?

I have personally used Alcro Bestå to match the house. But you must prime properly. I would probably do as previously suggested: get all new lumber. It's not that many meters we're dealing with. Cut all the pieces and then treat them with some type of wood oil. Especially the end grain, which can ideally be dipped in the oil. After that, let the oil dry thoroughly and apply a layer of primer. Only then comes the finish with the Alcro paint. Preferably two layers. One before assembly and one after to cover nails/screws. Maybe tedious but durable. I wouldn't bother insetting the corner brackets. You can hardly see them underneath anyway, right?