Building Materials and Construction Technology
GBV: [citat] Thank you for your response! I'll have to figure out how I can access to see in and identify the first one and make a new hole, but a good start! 😊
neo11: I say the same, read up before you write. What is it you don't understand and what type of usage are you referring to for impregnation? You don't use impregnation in any form on lime mortar or kc mortar in ordinary conditions. It is suggested to paint with lime paint, but if it's near lakes or exposed, silicate might be better. Why would one even consider applying it, what is gained? More than
egge80: no, spackel doesn't breathe away down to plaster and paint with real silicate
jonaserik: [citat] If it's a long straight fence and it's in a windy area, it will easily break at the fastening. Post shoes only have support in a fork at the bottom and don't hold well for sway. So post holders are best and hold well, a bit more work, but why maybe redo it later. If there's space in the wall to place the holders so that they absorb the twisting of the fence crosswise, that's best. It's
ricebridge: But, you're not supposed to have the slope towards the post, right?
Kristina J: [citat] Thanks for the info, then I think I'll wait until it gets warmer and drier, and see how it goes. If I'm not satisfied, I can try some form of jointing.
Harryman: When I was little we had a neighbor who dug around the house for what I believe was almost three years. A bit too slow but I think this can take time!
skanfals: Of course! Thanks to both of you and this lovely forum! 😊
ricebridge: As you describe it, it sounds like the cabin is on a post or crawl space foundation? Insulate the kitchen floor again, preferably with styrofoam, and then ensure that rats and mice can't gnaw on it, preferably with mouse mesh. The walls seem to be straightforward to tackle. Remove old paneling, install a vapor barrier, frame up, load more insulation, install new paneling. Clear out the attic,
Teo11: This is how the final result turned out. A bit of grout and paint on it and I think it looks really good! Thanks again! [bild] [bild]
Hallerudsbo: [citat] Impact anchors only require a punch or something similar to drive out the bottom.
BirgitS: It could be beneficial to not only choose a glue that adheres very well but also, if an accident were to occur and she were to become seriously injured, it should be possible to replace it without having to replace the countertop as well.
MrVDV: Hello! We are in the process of building in a wardrobe in a bedroom here, but before we continue, I would like to check if the soundproofing will work in this room since we have discovered some gaps near the floor. 1) There is a manifold cabinet for underfloor heating between the walls. So it's mostly empty space and a metal door to the cabinet in part of the wall. This should lead to a lot of
Händige_Helge: [citat] Yes, I've taken the tip😀 I'm thinking of reinforcement once per m2. I'm leaning towards using thin joint mortar from Weber. Do you know the difference between thin joint mortar and blockfix? Both are cement-based…
fribygg: Outdoor lumber drying under sheet metal should work excellently for your oak wood, skip the tarp.
Dowser4711: In general, you should be able to handle that type of wall like a wooden wall, i.e., no plug. But if you are concerned about the increased weight of a large TV, especially if you have a long arm or similar, you can always use mollyplugg intended for double gypsum that expands behind the plywood.
Jonatan79: [citat] You'll have to operate a bit in the wall and insert additional studs to attach to.
Tompafix: [citat] You can only get rid of the creaking if you address the underlying problem. Then the subfloor needs to be even enough to lay laminate flooring, which floors from the 1940s rarely are...
tyomka: Will need to use some light filler in the future for board joints and cracks in walls. Wondering which filler is easy to work with, meaning easy to apply and sand. Many years ago, I used Byggmax's old product which was very easy to apply and sand afterwards. (See the picture) But then I recently tried Byggmax's latest basic light filler and it was the worst I've ever seen. Feels like working with
ulfben: I need to put back the stones we took down in our recreation room (built in 1969), see photos. What mortar should be used here, and is there any chance of color matching the new mortar with the original? I tried mixing some Finja Murbruk B but it turned out noticeably more brown/red than the light gray joint we have. [bild] [bild]
psonander: I have a room I plan to use as a TV room and office, with a movable wall in it. On one side, the idea is to place a TV bench at the bottom and then hang a TV a bit higher; the other side will have a computer screen and a fold-out desk. Everything will be on wheels so that the wall can be moved depending on whether it's a workday and the office needs to be used or if it's a TV evening. Any
neo11: Well, primarily on brick. But the walls must be "dust-free" beforehand, otherwise you have to pre-water to bind the dust. But don't water too much, concrete blocks don't absorb anything.
TorpAnders: You get to make a custom strip, bring out the plane and shaving lotion
wildeside: Neither expensive nor difficult and doesn't even take a long time to fix.
JED: [citat] It's an alternative, but I'm thinking of being frugal and skipping the boards. The panel is end-matched.
Makkan1234: Thank you, aha, can you paint the huntonit boards matte perhaps?