Building Materials and Construction Technology
john_l: [citat] Thanks, sounds like what I had in mind too. A bit of "use what you have" and then some over-dimensioning on top of that.
hemmabyggaren1337: [citat] It looks level, will check it today and get back to you. Is it enough to put a vapor barrier over the joints as shown in the picture? [/QUOTE]
Sernando: Yes, put up studs, plasterboard, and trim.
pjkw: What is behind the masonite? I would probably have taken down the masonite and filled with gypsum mortar followed by regular filler, or alternatively glued regular gypsum with gypsum mortar. Renovation gypsum is quite difficult to glue because it is so flimsy, in my experience.
Icka79: It's not tretex. It could be Huntonit, but then I'm afraid they've been discontinued a long time ago.
springer-jr: We have a house from the 70s that currently doesn't have any windows on the gable wall, and we now want to install two windows in that wall about 3 meters apart. The house has two stories, and there is no truss at the gable wall, so the gable wall is load-bearing. It is framed with 45x120 cc60, and the new windows have dimensions of 11X13. We will need to cut a stud in each window opening and
VidarH: I see that the referencing in the post became a bit skewed after my little restructuring. It was the reasoning for having plastic boxes in the car. Which I chose not to include in a thread about indoor shelves... 😅
13th Marine: [citat] There used to be, but it seems to have disappeared again? We ask @Per Eskilsson
KJD: [citat] It's 100mm, substantial support will surely be needed, but it's unclear how secure you can be that it won't "fall down" later... use lightweight concrete at the bottom and on the sides, and the solution with wetroom panels for the overhang. Sleep best that way (y)
PappasHammare: Then let's properly lift the thread... My wife has decided she wants a curved corner on one of the walls. 90 degrees with a 60cm radius. I've managed to Google that scored MDF exists but! It costs a fortune and is hard to find. 2500 and upwards for ONE sheet. I need two since both sides of the wall need a sheet. I have access to a plunge saw with 2 connectable 1.4-meter tracks. So the question is
Daniel 109: Okay, it seems to be mainly Oliven who doesn't understand how it works. And that there are a few different terms for the same thing and meanings for the same word.
Kapsyl: How old is the basement? I assume there can't be any old drain or vent hidden somewhere if you've torn everything out. What kind of ceiling is it? I helped take down a basement ceiling once in a 1920s villa. It seemed to be some kind of thin slate slabs and inside them, there was some type of wool insulation. Not wood or rock wool but like sheep wool or similar. Anyway, it smelled horrible when
Kristina J: [citat] Oh, thank you for taking the time! I haven't started yet, so I have time.
springer-jr: We have a house where we are going to install two windows in the gable wall that is load-bearing, we will need to remove a stud at each window. Does anyone know a good online designer who can calculate the dimensions for the load distribution?
ClasseClas: Check the assembly instructions for the staircase. Probably, the steps and the fittings in the stringers should be lubricated with paraffin, something that probably hasn't been done. To make it right, it's "just" a matter of disassembling the staircase and addressing it, then reassembling it.
Baskavoda: Currently building a new kitchen and searching for a countertop. It's a U-shaped kitchen, and unfortunately, I can't find any hardware store that delivers countertops in the dimensions I need. For example, I need a bar section that's a bit wider (70cm) and about 220cm. Hornbach sells a countertop that's 64cm wide, which fits the rest of the kitchen, but it's only available as 90x202, which is too
snikanor: Hello, We are renovating a room where wallpaper has been applied directly onto particleboard. After doing some research, it seems advisable to put up drywall on the particleboard before wallpapering (or painting) to prevent cracking and similar issues. Many also recommend using regular drywall (12-13mm) instead of renovation drywall, as the latter is both more expensive and harder to screw/fit
Ossian K Olsson: [citat] [citat] Posts from a previous thread on the same topic!
HSP: Gypsum plaster is, as you write, easy to work with. In the ceiling, there should not be any moisture load, so it should work. However, I have never plastered a ceiling, so I can't give any tips on methods, etc. I have plastered numerous walls with both traditional plaster and gypsum plaster. My experience is that the gypsum plaster is more forgiving and adheres well, which is an advantage when
Cir: [citat] Nice to get a second opinion that I'm not completely off track. I'm thinking of cutting open a bit where it's squeezed together and giving the floor an extra cm to expand, so it can settle again. The particle board isn't screwed down unless the builder fastened it in the groove, so I should probably go over it and super-screw it to hold it in place.
Du och 19till: You have proof that the old bridge held up quite well, so I suggest you try to replicate that construction with iron pipes.
BirgitS: If it's humid, maybe a våtrumsskiva is a good choice? Or if it's dry, so that the only requirement is that it isn't organic, a golvgipsskiva?
människa: Splitting & flipping is actually a really good idea! Thanks!
Adb: [citat] A little late now I guess.. 😬 But well, it will be what it will be
Sernando: Wash, clean, and rebuild it. As the angry carpenter says 😳
Prodigys: Filling the void under the deck
Jonatan79: [citat] Good. The smell in the house is probably due to other things, often because of inadequate ventilation.
Rickard.lj: Splice where you have the posts and pull beams on either side of the posts?