Building Materials and Construction Technology
ClasseClas: The Fibo panel is stable enough for a bathroom cabinet weighing 10 kg. If installed according to the instructions, you also have an additional 15 mm plywood panel behind it.
ricebridge: Yes, 10 cm is certainly possible in a severely earthquake-affected area, but hardly on Swedish bedrock. Have another talk with the executor on the topic of göromgörrätt.
Felix Björkeson: Okay, so I assume that the 100 mm long screws I've tried are too long and the threaded part of the screw goes through the batten?
zingo: [citat] Opening 54 wide, 32 high Dome 130 outer diameter, 97 inner. Chimney 40 wide, 30 high, but I plan to extend it to 50-60 eventually.
BirgitS: When the slab is insulated, you can have wood studs. With kitchen cabinets that are to be hung on the wall, you want it stable and with wooden boards for easy mounting, so 45x70 with plywood/OSB and gypsum on both sides should work well. See here: https://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/renovering/bygga-innervagg
johan.ha: [citat] Thanks for the response! No, I don't want to keep it 🙂
ricebridge: to this misery (outdoor porch) [bild] The tiles crack into small pieces when trying to drill into them. Additionally, it must be possible to sweep and shovel snow in the winter.
Erica R: [citat] Thanks for all the advice! I'm starting to lean towards working a bit with the walls that are there, with some paper tape, filler, etc. A bit of differing opinions here with the cables. In this case, it will probably be external and visible (mostly because the rest of the house looks like that). :)
Uzelac: Hello! We are building a new gate and poured two foundations with post shoes in them. When we placed the post, which is 95*95 and about 120 cm high, it wobbled a bit and even more when the gate was attached. It looked like the shoe was wobbling because the wood was well screwed in and the foundation was firm. I read here that you should not use a post shoe but rather a post anchor, so we have now
ByggareBob1900: Thank you for the reply. We complained, and they tore everything down the same day without discussion👍. The company had hired personnel from another firm. Now they have poured a plinth, and then everything will be redone by the company's own craftsmen.
BSOD: I think my stairs with materials cost around 5-8000 SEK. I did it during some evenings and weekends, alongside my full-time job. Reinforced concrete stairs with a surface layer of split granite. My goodness, you practically have to be a doctor nowadays to afford going to work if anything on the house needs to be done by craftsmen.
Nordjohan: [citat] Absolutely right, I won't have the slats as close together as this. I thought it was an incredibly stylish solution and easy to clean underneath. :)
Mikael Wallin: The form is probably not actually wrong here, as you can see in the picture it is fairly built up since I was unsure how sturdy it needed to be. The subframe for the slab is built with a horizontal 70 beam at each post, which is also a 70 beam, and they are approximately spaced at 45 cm or something like that. On top of the beams are fiber cement boards as the "bottom" of the form. [bild] It took
Topptur: [citat] You can be at ease. I've had a structural engineer on site.
MCGun: [citat] It might not be too steep, but I'd rather not take any chances. Yes, that's a good suggestion. I'll try that. Thanks for your help.
Uzelac: [citat] Yes, it was quite a bit.. fortunately, we only have two. I'll get back with the results!
Fredrik_1976: [citat] Many years ago now, but the floor turned out well 👍🏻
BirgitS: Make sure not to drill where the electricity runs.
Bengt65: Awakening this thread... Want to install a nice ceiling like this https://www.bauhaus.se/takpanel-huntonit-symfoni-11x300x1220mm?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcwSFQO6J9uqVb40O6ASmYuyyKlSrLDzeiOrpqt3h8K-2iwLRNldyThoCOVkQAvD_BwE Partly to be able to install ceiling outlets where I want them, bring out outlets so you can have window lighting. A thought that has crossed my mind is
jbak: [citat] Alternatively, place a piece of plastic in each roof truss section over the laminated beam and tape it together with the plastic downwards on each side
Bananskalare: [citat] The most important thing is unprotected single conductors. The rest are not actually dangerous. Not correct, but not dangerous.
Mikael_L: The beam can also rest on other/more supports, in the form of posts here and there. There is no requirement that the support has to be at the very end. [citat] Yep, that's true. But at the same time, there's an increased risk of the beam splitting if it's done that way. The shear stress is highest at the ends. [bild]
JLeo: [citat] Thanks for the reply. It's a crawl space with wooden joists. Had hoped for some simpler solutions 😀. We will probably try with different insulations. And if it doesn't work, we have an alternative solution where the fridge and freezer stick out a few dm.
Wallawhoa: Hello! 195+45 construction About to insulate and frame the small house now, and I became a bit curious about how to handle the installation layer in the bathroom. Fixated on a small detail, I guess it doesn't matter much, but oh well. The idea was to place the installation layer around all external walls at cc 600, then go down to cc 300 in the bathroom area. Do you just extend the "extra"
surris: You only need to have plastic against the construction part that borders the outside air.
pathe915: [citat] How did you size the dry well? How big does one need for 50 liters a day on old farmland?