Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bo arnold: Do not paint with boat varnish, it can probably damage the Styrofoam; paint with solvents should be avoided; paint with a water-based woodwork paint that does not harm the Styrofoam.
sinuslinus: [citat] No, it will be the same problem if you try to glue together two painted pieces of wood.
Muthai: Raising this thread a bit. I want to attach a sailcloth to a plastered lightweight concrete structure (above the glass section). What is recommended for attachment in that case?
Joellernej: This is what it looked like in 1965 :-)
Mrmrl: Yes, that's much more than I could have guessed. Feels like it will be a wooden staircase!
Cryptorchid81: [citat] I can't remember the width right now but I want to say less than 70cm at least. Thank you so much for the demonstration, it seems like it could be an alternative if we are "forced" to buy something else.
NoClues: [citat] Hi! This was a while ago! 🙂 Well, the roof turned out well, but I decided to go with 2"4 beams instead. It was simpler and doesn't risk twisting were the arguments for two beams. Good luck with your build!
Tornhuset: Thank you for the reply! Unfortunately, I need fully threaded ones. The suggestions from Amazon at least had reasonable delivery times.
Pappa1986: [citat] Simple things I should have checked earlier, but I'll check this on Friday as I'm away tomorrow. Thanks for now.
mickejamback: Hi, I've torn down an old built-in wardrobe. Now there's a difference in level at the ceiling where the old wardrobe stood. How would you solve this? All tips appreciated.
kniv: The special reason is that the manufacturer wants to make more money
spikar-på-skruvar: I am planning to build a stair landing/small deck with the dimensions 1500mm x 3000mm, height 800mm. I want the construction to be as open as possible underneath, to create a floating feeling. It will stand on six posts in two rows of three. Initially, there was supposed to be a 3000mm beam per row and then 1500mm joists with 600mm spacing and 28mm decking. Now I'm considering removing the beam
Norrtull: We have a settlement in the house we live in (apt) built in 1902, it settled 30cm in 1903. Since then the house has remained still. I would be more worried if the house were still sinking.
naikon: Depends a bit on how much effort you want to put in. The common method here would be to fill the screw holes and the gap in the drywall and then wallpaper it. But it's just as fine to paint directly on the drywall, which I probably would do since it's just a closet. If you want to hang something really heavy, I would check what kind of wall it is, for example, if there is a wooden board behind or
Bygget123: Hi, I am going to make a penetration in my garage wall for water. It is a modern garage with plasterboard, OSB, insulation, vapor barrier facade. How do I make this penetration in the safest and easiest way to avoid damaging the vapor barrier?
KlasseT: [citat] Yes, exactly. Now, it's only the last 45cm of the wall that is below ground, so it's a relatively small part. Furthermore, the wall, as I mentioned, is partly an outer wall to the left in the picture and partly against the neighbor's crawl space to the right in the picture. Hence the level difference in the middle, which makes it not simply a matter of plastering; otherwise, you would
Planet2: [citat] Yes, I'll let it sit and hope for the best :) [citat] Yes, I'll let it sit and stop worrying about it then. Thanks to both of you for the answers :)
Tomture61: Pling, now I know how 🙂 On the wall closest to the house facade, mount 2 standing 45 x 70 studs. So a total of 4, mounted with spacing for the top stud and brace.
Anemon86: [citat] Bike shed that we have built. Not insulated. Made like a stable door type with a Z on the back
Mazen: After consulting Svenskt Trä again, the decision was made to use 145 x 45 both as top plate and roof beam, with an estimated deflection of under 3 mm, it should hold even for a few decimeters of wet snow ....
z_bumbi: You can check through the standard plates for windows, doors, tsk etc and see if anything fits the purpose.
namnbyte: [citat] Yes, exactly, available in rolls of about 20 meters, 5cm wide yellow strip. I can recommend Biltema's wooden sticks to poke it in with. Lift the floor so you get into the joists, or do it from below from the basement if possible. Maybe a bit more of a hassle, but then the living space isn't affected at least.
Anonymiserad 618974: [citat] Great, nicely done! A reciprocating saw between the board and the frame, cut the screw. Not the drywall! :) Works well when door and window frames, wooden floors, and the like are to be demolished.
Broz: [citat] Thanks Tergo!!!
Kashew: [citat] I'm considering building a pergola with a gable roof. Can you explain what you mean by the diagonals? Please draw on the picture or on paper if you have time 🙏