Building Materials and Construction Technology
nb.: [citat] 1. Circular saw set to about 16 mm and then chisel. You have to be careful with the råspont so that you don't cut it incorrectly. Typically, I made a cut in the råspont so that a slat could be removed. 2. No, I cut off the msonite with a utility knife along the moldings and used renovation drywall which is about the same thickness, so it doesn't show.
jkings: [citat] Thank you so much. Haha of course I'll try🙏
jonaserik: [citat] Lamp sockets with hooks hold up to 15 kilos, the type I linked to, virtually every electrician has in their cars and is used 100% for hooks in the ceiling.
Göran Palm1: The main reason for placing the core side up is that drying cracks are fewer and smaller on that side. The further from the center of the log, the larger the cracks become. Göran Palm, construction engineer and inspector, and forest technician.
drömmenomlandet: Drive with French wood screw, 3wt, and remove the screws before winter. Has worked for 3 years at least and it stays secure when you screw into the same hole. The idea was that when it no longer works, you replace the board. In your case, you can do this, and when it becomes bad, you raise up a level. That is, a square (material of choice) in which you hammer in "insticksmutter." Then a bolt from
Spikrätaren: One would preferably have the extended measurement of the forearm to get the outer triangle. But roughly calculating with sine, g1 is just under 161, the height at 20 degrees then becomes 55cm.
Haz6909: Hello Snözon 2.5 Attached are the technical description and various drawings where the dimensions are indicated.
jahallåja: The geggamojan worked well, filling the gaps around the poles and stabilizing them. [bild] [bild] Unfortunately, the platform itself still wobbled on the mount, as it did not have direct contact with the ground (which I probably should have figured out it needed). But with some gravel and a stone slab under the metal plate, this wobble was also reduced to an acceptable level.
RoTe: Looks like some kind of fiberboard? It's not rocket science, you probably have some screw at home you can test by screwing next to where the cables go out to the ceiling lamp, so that the hole will be hidden by the lamp later. If the screw works there, you have a winner.
Tompafix: This is what I mean [MEDIA=youtube]uAOwsKlwteg[/MEDIA]
hempularen: For me, the stones have been secure enough to function as edging for flower beds. They hold like a rock. If it's an edge you plan to drive over, then you might want to optimize its durability better.
ricebridge: When it needs to be removed — honestly, we'll cross that bridge when we come to it. Build so that it lasts today and in the future. Nail it from both sides! You definitely want silicone in the bathroom, yes. However, make sure it's silicone intended for wet rooms or outdoor use so that it doesn't mold, because it will otherwise.
KR74: Building a canoe cart from 20 mm tubes (all suitable wheels seem to be designed for a 20 mm axle). https://www.clasohlson.com/se/p/40-7585 Anyone know where to find T-pipe connections for 20 mm tubes that aren’t too bulky, expensive, and heavy? Makerpipe used in the video is only available in the US. Kipp has them, but they’re expensive and bulky in aluminum and unfortunately 18 mm in the
Workingclasshero: It looks very much like an old railway crossing post. If it's such, you must go into the "corners" with a blade and cut the 8 reinforcement bars. If it's such, I have octagonal clamp brackets you can have to screw on to hang something. If it's homemade, what I've said doesn't apply, and the brackets might not fit. Workingclasshero
Skånepåg: Hello, After some further searching this winter for an adhesive to glue the vapor barrier in my renovation project, I found Foil Adhesive at Jem&Fix of all places (!), see attached photo. This adhesive has worked well and provides a relatively strong bond between both vapor barrier-vapor barrier and vapor barrier-timber. I bought eight tubes and took the opportunity to ask at the checkout if they
jonaserik: [citat] You'll have to see what waterproof sealant you can put in between. Is there a lot of space between?
Kim Rosenqvist: [citat] Thank you, that's enough advice for me 👍
Hosseal: [citat] What could be the size of the battens, is 95x45 enough... should they be upright or horizontal on the old roof?
j.tuovinen: Hello. We are planning to lay new decking on the patio, and since we have a large patio of 50 sqm, I would gratefully appreciate tips on any websites where one can buy decking timber cheaply - however, not at the expense of quality (better expensive and good than cheap and bad). I have previously heard that it is significantly cheaper to import decking from Poland, but in some forums (even here),
Anton Hertzman: Hello, I have a storage space that is intended to become a chicken coop, at least 3/4 of the space. I wonder if anyone has tips and ideas on how I can proceed with walls, possible insulation, and with the floor itself which currently consists of soil. Unfortunately, I have a lack of expertise in construction/carpentry, so I would gratefully accept suggestions. Thank you in advance. Regards
Zeke_Varg: [citat] How high is the ceiling in your basement? I have 220cm and have made cable trays on the ceiling. Lowering is not an option for me, but I have rarely seen basements with ceilings high enough that I found it aesthetically preferable to hide pipes/cables with a lowered ceiling. [bild] [bild]
Rickard.: It is notoriously fragile, and I think it's the snow from the steep roof that has cracked the metal, and if that's the case, then the roof is essentially worn out as it can only get worse and worse. The steep roof has better conditions, but it's hardly new, so to speak.
Byggarn Bob: [citat] What a legend you are, I have Clas Ohlson just around the corner, and they just happen to have it in store.
tergo: [citat] T-panel https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/vet-nagon-vad-denna-typ-av-panel-heter-och-om-den-gar-att-koepa-idag.259808/
laserorm: [citat] Thanks! Used the multitool and made small cuts in the box, then it was easy to pry it out with a screwdriver.
John Karlsson: Angle grinder in this case, aerated concrete is probably too easy to crack from banging and hitting them off.