Hello!
We are in the process of installing new floors. We have just torn out our old parquet floor, which was directly on the concrete slab except for a paper underlay. In adjacent rooms, there have been vinyl floors, and there's a 12-13 mm particle board there.
We are now going to lay laminate flooring in all rooms and do not want any thresholds between the rooms, thus no difference in height.
Therefore, I need to put some sort of board material on the concrete to bring it up to level.
I have considered 12 mm floor gypsum or 12 mm particle board; all the flooring particle boards I've looked at that are chamfered are 22 mm. Would it work to just lay particle board or gypsum loose on top of the concrete, or does it need to be chamfered or alternatively glued gypsum boards?
The reason the parquet was removed is that the previous owner had cats and we don't want to risk any cat odor, that's why the surface layer is removed; otherwise, it would have been easier to leave the parquet and lay the laminate on top of it.
Thanks in advance!
We are in the process of installing new floors. We have just torn out our old parquet floor, which was directly on the concrete slab except for a paper underlay. In adjacent rooms, there have been vinyl floors, and there's a 12-13 mm particle board there.
We are now going to lay laminate flooring in all rooms and do not want any thresholds between the rooms, thus no difference in height.
Therefore, I need to put some sort of board material on the concrete to bring it up to level.
I have considered 12 mm floor gypsum or 12 mm particle board; all the flooring particle boards I've looked at that are chamfered are 22 mm. Would it work to just lay particle board or gypsum loose on top of the concrete, or does it need to be chamfered or alternatively glued gypsum boards?
The reason the parquet was removed is that the previous owner had cats and we don't want to risk any cat odor, that's why the surface layer is removed; otherwise, it would have been easier to leave the parquet and lay the laminate on top of it.
Thanks in advance!
There are rot-spångolv in many different thicknesses, including 12mm.
Check with a building supply store.
I don't dare comment on floating spångolv on concrete.
Check with a building supply store.
I don't dare comment on floating spångolv on concrete.
If there is no risk of rising damp, you can lay either gypsum board or 12mm particle board. Lay them with a small gap between (4-6mm) to avoid creaking. Secure them with some nail anchors that you drill into the slab so they don't move and start creaking.
Best regards,
Anders
Best regards,
Anders
HelloFredrik_1976 said:
It is fine to lay floating engineered chipboard flooring, but don't forget the impact sound insulation (the one you mentioned (paper))
is available in different types, talk to the building supply store for assistance.
Don't forget the gap between the chipboard and the wall so that there is no creaking when you walk on the floor, about 7mm all around, not a larger gap than the skirting board can cover.
Securing the boards to the concrete can be unwise if there is underfloor heating (it can be damaged)
What are the advantages of particle board vs plasterboard?
What type of nail plug should I use and how does it work?
No, there shouldn't be any risk of moisture, it's a crawl space with a concrete slab.
What type of nail plug should I use and how does it work?
No, there shouldn't be any risk of moisture, it's a crawl space with a concrete slab.
Hello Fredrik,
Floor gypsum reduces sound transmission, can be glued with gypsum mortar, no need for drilling into the concrete.
Floorchipboard can be floating so you don't need any nail plugs, just footstep sound insulation.
The floorchipboard is also tongue and groove and should fit together, the joints are glued.
Floor gypsum reduces sound transmission, can be glued with gypsum mortar, no need for drilling into the concrete.
Floorchipboard can be floating so you don't need any nail plugs, just footstep sound insulation.
The floorchipboard is also tongue and groove and should fit together, the joints are glued.
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Is it better to use self-leveling compound instead...
"Gluing" drywall is best. You mix plaster and apply it on the entire board with a "comb" and then press it to the floor. However, it's a bit more tedious and it can be difficult to get completely even.Fredrik_1976 said:
Chipboard with nail plugs (http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Fastelement/Plugg/Spikplugg/Spikplugg-19681/) is simpler. You'll need to drill holes first (6mm is enough) and maybe 8 plugs per board. Just drill to the same depth as the nail (60 mm should suffice) and then hammer it down until it's flush with the board.
If you don't have a proper rotary hammer with SDS, rent one from places like Bauhaus, Cramo, or Ramirent. Tell them what you need it for, and they'll get you the right equipment. It only takes a few seconds per hole with a proper rotary hammer.
Just remember earplugs...
Hi!
Seems like a lot of work to self-level 40 m2,
I have left the old paper that was under the parquet, shouldn't it work to just lay chipboard on that base?
I was thinking about using un-grooved chipboard 12 mm. Shouldn't it stay in place by its own weight without being drilled, since laminate will be placed on top?
Seems like a lot of work to self-level 40 m2,
I have left the old paper that was under the parquet, shouldn't it work to just lay chipboard on that base?
I was thinking about using un-grooved chipboard 12 mm. Shouldn't it stay in place by its own weight without being drilled, since laminate will be placed on top?
It's entirely a cost question whether you want to use a self-leveling compound or not. For your information, I can inform you that it's difficult to level a floor perfectly smooth if the amount the floor needs to be raised is small, like around 10mm.
I'm a thrifty person but have never seen someone lay unjointed chipboards with gaps, very skeptical about that solution. There are proper boards for this purpose, and they can be installed just by gluing in the joint and then just be floating (it becomes a piece across the whole floor) (shortcuts are long paths and skimping on this will likely just be expensive in the end when it needs to be redone).Fredrik_1976 said:
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What is uncertain about it...? The original poster just wants to raise the floor level. Can there be any simpler or cheaper way than 12mm chipboard?heij said:
The boards will probably stay in place without fastening them, but IF they move and are edge to edge, it will start to creak, and the only way to fix it then is to lift the floor again... Drilling in 40sqm will probably take over an hour, so I would at least sacrifice that...
Absolutely right, in that case, I will fasten them, it shouldn't matter if they are ospontade then, I can't imagine they will move if you secure them with nail plugs. It also feels pretty easy to lay plasterboard and secure it with gipsputs.
No, and I don't think there are even 12mm tongue and groove...Fredrik_1976 said:
As mentioned, leave a few mm between each board and also against the walls.
Gluing plasterboard is best, as mentioned, it provides the most "compact" substrate but be very careful with the thickness of the putty in that case so you don't get any lumps!
This will then lead to bulks/dents in the parquet!
Subfloor is also chipboard.
The boards probably remain in place without you attaching them (guessing, doubtful about that)
A homogeneous board that results with a proper subfloor is definitely better.
Otherwise, I think the proposed solution seems a bit like a DIY solution.
The boards probably remain in place without you attaching them (guessing, doubtful about that)
A homogeneous board that results with a proper subfloor is definitely better.
Otherwise, I think the proposed solution seems a bit like a DIY solution.