Building Materials and Construction Technology
Villa1949: I attached to my concrete foundation to avoid placing posts over my newly laid drainage. I also installed a patio roof, so I had to attach the structure to the house anyway. Otherwise, I think it seems advantageous to let the deck be freestanding from the house.
Nicro: There is also this type that does not require a mounting tool. https://www.fischersverige.se/sv-se/produkter/standardinfaestning/metallexpander/maessingsplugg-ms
MultiMan: Maybe old mercury paint? Vietnam apparently still uses it: https://svenska.yle.fi/a/7-1401248 In Vietnam, a Finnish company is trying to persuade businesses to stop using toxic chemicals. It is common for companies to release such chemicals directly into nature, and consumer goods can also contain them. As the rapid industrial development continues, environmental problems in Vietnam have become
fribygg: [citat] With wall studs of spruce, I think 10 years is pretty good anyway. Check out ekgrindar.se
Bänkt Osten: If you put one on each side, you can open the door both ways.
Fotografen: You must miter the corner in the middle of the angle, otherwise the cuts will be of different lengths. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/kapa-hoern-pa-altandel-hjaelp-med-grader.117377/ Example: [bild]
NicklasP: [citat] Used mdf boards and attached them at the bottom with regular wood screws, I think. Then silicone(?) at the top to seal any gaps. Did it a couple of years ago, at the thread start, and it's still holding up :)
Bigge77: [citat] That it is like an oilcloth type on the back of those facing outer walls.
Oldboy: It depends on where they are going to be. Ideally, you don't want to use moldy boards indoors, but these were so marginally affected that they could be used indoors as well. It's too dry for mold to grow and thrive indoors if you would want to have them visible and untreated. If painted, the "problem" is invisible. If they are going to be in unheated spaces, it doesn't make much difference
Tobias__75: I will look them up. Thank you for the quick response!
Digitalanatomy: Hello! I'm about to fix up our new hallway. I'm not all thumbs, but I'm not a handyman either. I've just finished the ceiling. The old one was under the beams, so I wanted a higher ceiling. The beams will be sanded and stained dark. Now we come to the walls and interior. I'm not quite sure how to proceed? I've Googled but haven't found anything good. I'm going to install beadboard as wainscoting
krabat: Hello, I'm thinking of tackling the basement stairs from '78. I would welcome suggestions on how to deal with the carpet that is glued down and how to proceed with the steps. Should I remove the layer between the carpet and chipboard? I want a white staircase with black steps.
Pyrdon: [citat] Since it's been dug with a machine and by hand, and the ground is very rocky, the hole is pretty "ugly". It would take a lot of concrete in that case...
bygges: For example, Norgips now recommends that when using wood-based boards behind gypsum, the gypsum should be screwed into the studs. All layers should be screwed with the correct screw spacing/full screwing for fire safety. Then it can be said that in reality, both by DIY builders and professional builders, gypsum is often screwed into OSB without regard to studs, and it seems to work well with the
Harree: [citat] Thank you so much for taking the time to respond! I've never tried metal studs before, but I'll check it out. Instinctively, wood feels easier, but if you don't dare, you won't learn either :) It seems beneficial, as you said, that there's space above, which I think will make the electrician happy rather than having to cut into the studs, etc. :)
Ewa Felle-Persson: [citat] Thank you, thank you!
Niklaspe: [citat] Yes indeed, even 10500 the first year with geothermal heat and one child🤣 Thermia Atlas 12kw! 150+40 is the house. Norrbotten. Tested down to -36 degrees outside temperature then the pump gave 11kw so there was a little more!!;)
cpalm: [citat] Yes, but that's how timber behaves in a fire. This makes thick timber relatively fire-resistant. Some logs are charred deep within, yet partially almost intact. It's not exactly Shou Sugi Ban in the making, but there must have been a substantial blaze.
Martin_355: Hello. There have been some damages and cracks on the staircase. I was thinking of fixing them. I have read online that I should remove the loose gravel and stones around the damage and then brush on primer. My question is, what material should I use to make the appearance as similar as possible to the old concrete? Attaching a picture of the staircase.
O: [citat] No question is silly. The simplest thing is to ask the carpenter how he plans to proceed. But meddling with something a professional is working on is generally a bad idea unless you have agreed beforehand on how you can help. You're absolutely right to suspect it might be a bad idea to cut away what the carpenter has put up. So it's actually a smart question!😁
SusSten: [citat] I will go with option 1, that model suits me best. Thanks for the advice and tips! :)
Anonymiserad 405730: Minimum 30mm cover layer, that is, concrete around the reinforcement..
ArneTW: Most of the time, animals were kept in the brick part of the barn... moisture and expenses from the animals can be hard on wood. Regarding the concrete, you can just chip it away. First, tap with a crowbar/sledgehammer/pick before you rent/buy/borrow a jackhammer; sometimes old unreinforced concrete is surprisingly easy to remove. /ATW
BirgitS: You probably need to do what you should have done before tearing down a load-bearing wall, i.e., bring in a structural engineer who can calculate how it can be solved based on the forces that the wall handled.
Violina: It should be if you screw glue and oversize everything and basically have it freestanding (so it doesn't have to move with the house's movements) but it won't be an easy task to build..
Söderblad: Spot-on arguments for plaster, thanks @Rejäl and @Avemo!
tergo: [citat] concrete ceilings were not plastered, they were spray-painted with filler paint. if it is a plastered ceiling, it may be a stuccoed ceiling, common in older apartments.
RalleB: Use Tangit glue, it is a special glue for PVC/ABS that cold welds the parts together. https://www.pooldelar.nu/products/tangit-pvc-lim-125-gr
matknu: Hello. Vacation!!! I want to cast a sink in btg (a bowl-like type that you place on the counter) and cover the inside with glass mosaic. I have googled but can't find a guide, so I'm trying here if anyone has tips. -cement quality (additive to fine cement or fiber self-leveling compound?) - glue or adhesive mortar for the glass mosaic? - which adhesive for the drain? /Mats
RoAd: [citat] Thank you, I realized that after a couple of days, tried to remove the mess, spilled mineral spirits all over the project, threw everything in the trash, and have now decided to come up with another solution :)