Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mackan1935: I have a house from '64 with a masonry ground floor. In the middle of the core wall, there are two markings, and today when I tore down the interior wall against the outer wall, I saw a similar marking, about 50cm above the floor. What could this mean? Two markings "D" and one "S"
Ludde Jakobsson: If it is an apartment, contact the board/fault report. It is not your responsibility in that case.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] How thick will it be?
cpalm: Exactly. Wood woolite becomes brittle from long-term exposure to moisture, and what can be scraped off with your fingers isn't worth polishing but should be removed. Then you can fill in with homemade wood woolite - take wood wool and mix it around and let it soak in a "slury" of Portland cement and water, and press it in place. Saw a piece of hardboard or similar that you can then press against
dajvid: 158mm seems to be the best option. In terms of timber, do you buy 140 and cut it down to 130 in length? What is the best practice here? Does anyone know?
Lennart12: Hello, 20 mm rebar is generally very coarse for a door frame, so it's likely that these bars are related to something else. It's hard to say what they might be for without seeing the surrounding area, but an example is as shown below. If there is a large concentrated load coming from above from a pillar, more reinforcement is needed above the door. Regardless, the bars are now welded together, so
Alphaminor: The house has been sold for a few years. 😅 I actually tried to increase the permeability of rainwater in the soil outside by drilling several holes along that wall with a soil auger and filling them with clean gravel. It got somewhat better. Then I replaced the foam sealant with another material, but I don't quite remember now what it was, unfortunately. I think I tried some asphalt. Good luck!
Eriwet: [citat] a little late, the roof is already in place, but I understand your thinking!
BirgitS: Yes, the fact that the floor chipboard is thicker where the plastic mat is located is probably just about wanting to have all the flooring at the same height.
Oldboy: Blue concrete/lightweight concrete is really easy to drill into, so if it doesn't go easily with the drill, it's not lightweight concrete. Blue concrete is dark blue-gray. Very characteristic color. Unfortunately, color is difficult to judge on the computer screen, but the first image is questionably blue enough. Additionally, it looks like plaster, or is it painted directly on the blocks?
b8q: [citat] Now it's not really the wardrobes that the ventilation discussion was about, but the enclosed spaces on the sides (and possibly behind?) They are now - if I understand correctly - completely unventilated and at least in some cases directly against an outer wall.
GRgrGR55: Masonry tool wondering about and name for such a thing! Length 30 cm Width 10 cm Curvature approx. 1 cm
Jeajon75: Hello! We have a concrete terrace, about 40 sqm without a roof. It needs leveling because it's sloped towards the house wall. We're looking for a good leveling compound, like a self-leveling compound, but it's important that the surface doesn't become too modern/glossy since the house is from 1938 with horizontal log paneling. The concrete itself fits well with the house but unfortunately isn't
e.Cedergren: But by the way, regarding the carpet. Isn't it better to remove it completely underneath? I'm thinking about the future if for some reason you need to replace it, then you would also need to remove the wardrobe... or maybe not the whole thing but at least the base. Would you have made cuts instead because of the aesthetics or practicality?
Stuff: [citat] For me, three years is usually the time I can delay with moldings, thresholds, and windowsills before the wife starts complaining ;)
Husbygge15: Currently planning a sauna construction and wondering what size beam I need to place above a 2400 mm wide window. I'm having trouble finding a table for this. Does anyone have tips on what I should use or where I can find the answer to this? Is it enough with a 45x220 to tie the roof beams together in one section and to place double 45x220 under the roof beam layer?
Anna_H: [citat] Yes, it is the correct drawing and you can see on it that the knee wall is drawn, which means you cannot remove them without bringing in a structural engineer who calculates what you need to install as a beam to offset the weight from the roof.
skogsliden: [citat] I got inspired by this thread and started working on the same principle of an earth cellar. Cast slab with cell plastic, recess in the middle for ground cooling, Leca walls and arched roof built on temporary support. Isodrän on the sides, cell plastic on the roof, pond liner on top of the arch, geotextile fabric and then backfilled with soil. I will do as you did and cover the front with
fredrik_pe: [citat] This is what I did later, including some tips and discussion https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/gjuta-entretrappa-ihalig-frigolit-eps-foer-laegre-vikt.433957/
DBC-Marcus: The blade on the hard ones is more or less rigid. This is good when spreading the material. However, if you smooth the surface with it, marks from the trowel can easily be left, especially if you are inexperienced. The soft one is made of thinner spring steel and is therefore more forgiving. If the surface is under 20m2, you might as well use cheap trowels from Biltema, rather than half quality.
Loupen: Hello, I am planning to build a small shed on Värmdö outside Stockholm that will be insulated with hemp lime. I had intended to start on July 1st, but I'm behind schedule with my construction, so now I'm aiming to build the frame in August, and it will likely spill over into September since I'm inexperienced, doing it part-time, and from what I've learned from the little I've built is that it
Trollskidan: Received a quote for materials to build a floating dock. Since I've built some floating structures many years ago. When I looked around a bit, I saw the same block at Bygg Max where they are called floating blocks for docks. I called and talked to support at Bewi. They don't call them floating blocks themselves because it turns out to be EPS and it absorbs water AJAJ Must be encapsulated.
Killen som behöver hjälp: [citat] okay! Nice! I'll go with that. thanks! :)
tomte2025: Our south-facing facade needs renovation; the weatherboards and facade boards look really bad in some places. Even the wooden frames on the upstairs windows are starting to deteriorate at the bottom. [bild] I've calculated that we will need new wind boards and about 45 primed facade boards of varying lengths (320-390 cm), 60 primed cover boards (between 320 and 420 cm long), and an 8-meter-long
v795: Thanks for the response, I haven't moved into the house yet, just curious about what people who know think. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get a hold of the drawings or any other data on the house yet.
fribygg: [citat] So true. Windy is relatively easy to work with, but I wouldn't recommend trying to handle floor-height rolls by yourself.