Building Materials and Construction Technology
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Not particularly deep, however, I've never sanded by hand as we always have a random orbit sander on hand.
JPW: An even more secure option is to build the door in the doorway, attach the hinges, and then cut it in half. That way, you don't have to struggle with moving almost finished and heavy doors into the doorway; they hang in place on their own when they are ready.
altren: [citat] That pole is quite firmly fixed so I would preferably avoid trying to replace it.
Anonymiserad 405730: It can stand over a winter if you get that weather protection.
sommar1111: Hello, I'm renovating a facade (concrete) that has peeling old paint. The facade will be repainted in a new color. In preparation, I have scraped off everything loose and a bit more with the help of a heat gun/speedheater. However, not all paint comes off easily and some is really stuck. Some repairs are also needed on the concrete facades, some parts have come loose and some cracks. Now I have
oj.: Is there a picture of the final result? We are going to build something similar.
Freppa79: [citat] Ah, that's unfortunate... Call and check with Plexigruppen (https://plexigruppen.se), I've ordered from them before, so you'll get help from those who know plexiglass. It is vacation time right now though, but otherwise, try plexishoppen.se (https://plexishoppen.se/pages/plexiglas). Hope it works out!
Allan Dahl: After extensive water damage, both the floor, chipboard, and polystyrene were affected in parts of the basement level. There was 3cm of water on top of the concrete slab! Now everything has been torn out and partially dried. The drainage is from 2007, and after a mechanical dehumidifier has been running for almost 3 months, the outer walls have dried properly, but the concrete slab is still wet
yonna: [citat] I carelessly fill in the text with black ink on my brass door sign. Wipe off what has gone outside with a dry cloth and polish with copper polish over the entire sign. I fill in every couple of years, polish a few times a year. The door sign was not treated or lacquered from the start. Sure, you can meticulously fill in with black lacquer, but the black will turn gray in any case after
Harald Blåtumme: Try the modern replacement for the French wood screw: Big Dog. Examples can be found here but I think I've bought similar ones at Biltema as well. https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/fastdon/skruv/traskruv-utvandigt/traskruv-big-dog-c4-10x50-40st-915608062 It's crazy how strong they are with their fairly coarse Torx fittings, typically T40. I've used hundreds of coarse 10mm x 140mm with
Span08: [citat] Thank you for the answer. I searched for lap joint and it appears to be a variant of splicing. I've made a lap joint on the long side of the house. I'll probably do the same in the corner.
Småbrukaren: Karmen stands on the windowsill. Japanese saw and steady hand.
Småbrukaren: Depends entirely on the door's width in relation to the wall.
frullster: [citat] I have considered that too, but there are surface-mounted pipes for the radiator system running along the exterior wall with the window, which would make the installation layer very deep. Plus, there are joints in the pipes, making me reluctant to build around them. Re-routing these pipes without joints is possible, but the budget is, of course, also a constraint. Admittedly, the water
ekavall: [citat] Well, the most important thing is to stop any more water from getting in and damaging the basement ceiling… or causing moisture in the wall. The water must be diverted away from the house's wooden facade and off the deck.
Gormenghast: Quick and clear answers! Thank you, I'll continue carpentry.
Mikael_L: [citat] Either support from studs that fix the boards properly in the corner, or a sheet metal bracket is probably recommended. Otherwise, the boards will slightly gap in the corner and crack the paint or wallpaper, making it look bad later. In this thread, a bit after the middle, I join the discussion and explain how I do it and why, and include some pictures.
BirgitS: According to the structural engineer who previously answered questions about load-bearing walls in the forum, it happened that the house designer drew the wall under the ridge even though it is not load-bearing. According to the technical description, there are load-bearing interior walls. If there is a beam in the living room ceiling (visible or embedded in the floor structure) in the
Anonymiserad 405730: We usually set up a rule/board with the same width as the slot inside the beam and then screw the beam into that board.
Humulus: A smaller part looks like Blå-Lättbetong, most of the rest looks like plaster, etc. You have to measure to be sure. And yes, Blåbetong has been used for load-bearing walls, if nothing else as insulation outside, for example, concrete cinder blocks or similar. However, I DON'T think there is any reason for concern! Wait for the association's measurement and sleep soundly in the meantime! In the
BirgitS: Putty and paint intended for outdoors and wood surfaces. It says so on the packages, and good paint stores can of course help you choose.
fribygg: [citat] The method already used probably works again, a panel material + wallpaper or why not just paste gray rag paper and paint the wall?
mexitegel: [citat] This isn't about building preservation but just about function. However, I'm reluctant to start tearing up the floor etc. inside as it leads to a lot more work. So the question is how can you brace? I've thought about that too. It's true that the wall planks are tongue-and-groove 3” with slightly varying widths.
Oldboy: Yes, the panel must be able to move. If a large piece is glued together, the movement at the edges becomes greater, so gluing wood is not recommended for outdoor use as the moisture varies so much over the year. Indoors, the climate is much more stable, so the movements are not as large.
Albans doktor: As you say, there's likely no problem with using a regular wall with wooden studs and drywall. You might want to have a 10mm plastic spacer between the outer wall and the first stud so it doesn't "wick" moisture, and keeping the drywall 5-10mm away probably won't hurt either so you can apply a flexible sealant there. An alternative is to use metal studs and fermacell boards to minimize organic
Dankerz: Hello everyone. I need help with how to build an internal wall for a sliding door. It's mostly a bit more complicated than a regular internal wall. What complicates it further is that it needs to connect to a chimney breast, and the chimney sweep says there must be no combustible materials within 10 cm. This can be debated, but the reason seems good. So how on earth should I solve the
Farstatjej90: [citat] I think it's much, much easier to get a smooth surface and even slope if you do it when you cast. Or plaster on the slope afterward. Grinding out what you describe sounds terribly difficult...