Started a complete SIOO treatment 6 years ago. After a few years of washing algae, I did a more thorough cleaning this year. And the nice gray surface layer disappeared. I thought I would start over with step 1, just to be safe. I don't know how good it is to apply step 1 on top of step 2, but as I wrote, the surface was worn.
Found this thread and applied SIKA water-resistance treatment (100 SEK/liter concentrated) this year, which corresponds to SIOO step 1. I diluted it 1/6 as I read 1/10 in this thread. It absorbed very well! I will update once I've applied "step 2."
Chemists, what do you think about vinegar's ability to "harden" the treatment through its acidity? Can the silicon be leached out if it's too acidic?
Started a complete SIOO treatment 6 years ago. After a few years of washing off algae, there was a more thorough cleaning this year. And the nice gray surface layer disappeared. I thought I would start over with step 1, just to be safe. I don't know how good it is to apply step 1 on top of step 2, but as I wrote, the surface was worn out.
I found this thread and this year applied SIKA waterproofing treatment (100 SEK/liter concentrated), which corresponds to SIOO step 1.
I diluted 1/6 as I read 1/10 in this thread. It absorbed very well! I will return with an update once I have applied "step 2."
You chemists, what do you think about the ability of weed vinegar to "harden" the treatment through its acidity? Can you leach out the silica if it is too acidic?
I think that if it is too acidic, it will precipitate too quickly, I would guess. Carbon dioxide in the air will do that job better. I don't think there's a need to rush
Started a complete SIOO treatment 6 years ago. After a few years of washing algae, I did a more thorough cleaning this year. And the nice gray surface layer disappeared. I thought I would start all over again with step 1, just to be safe. I'm not sure how well step 1 works on top of step 2, but as I mentioned, the surface was worn.
I found this thread and this year applied SIKA waterproof treatment (100 SEK/liter concentrated) which corresponds to SIOO step 1. I diluted 1/6 as I read 1/10 in this thread. It absorbed very well! I'll return with an update after I've applied "step 2".
You chemists, what do you think about the ability of ogräsättika's acidity to "cure" the treatment? Can the silica leach out if it's too acidic?
ogräsättika I think is better for killing green growth. Probably works well for a year afterward if growth occurs.
Hi everyone,
Any updates, any new experiences? Personally, I have a house from 2017 with a façade treated at the factory with Sioo:x (on thermally treated pine panel), which I am not at all satisfied with regarding black mold growth, nor with their excuses that "it naturally comes from moisture in the air" (naturally, if it were an anaerobic environment, not much would happen), and I would like to do something about it. If I take action, would a thorough washing/scrubbing of the façade followed by treatment with step 1 (x2) and recurring step 2 according to the recipe above be preferable, because surely you can't just proceed without removing the growth? And could I possibly do it with a mixture with water glass instead of water stop (I'm so tired of seeing it, so I really want something that works and prevents such growth)?
And thank you all for sharing!
Sioo is great in many ways... but I also get black spots on the deck, especially in shady areas. Some type of biocide that is a poison for these nuisances would be good. There are different moss and algae treatments. Feel free to try with a little diluted vinegar on one spot, some moss-free on another spot, and roundup on another... I went hard this year with a pressure washer because my patience ran out a bit, and had to redo steps 1 and 2, and then used the recipe in this thread. Looks good so far. Will also try a little vinegar and other stuff.
I'll see if I remember to take some pictures one day.
My facade looks very good now after some rain. After the last impregnation with step 2, water beads on the facade. No growth. But it might happen in the fall.
I had some spots with black dots where the scaffolding stood during the house erection. These have not disappeared after treatment. So a good cleaning is probably wise before treatment. If you want, you can add bensaltensid to the final treatment. It can be purchased at alltidfraktfritt.se. It's the active ingredient in most moss agents.
Here are some pictures of our facade. We are completely satisfied so far. But we'll probably have to wait and see after fall and winter how it holds up. The walls facing south are clearly the most whitish. It tends to rain the most against them and the sun is quite intense on them as well.
Here are some pictures of our facade. We are completely satisfied so far. But you probably have to wait and see after autumn and winter how it holds up. Walls facing south are clearly the most whitewashed. It tends to rain the most against them and the sun is quite intense on those as well.
Would your method also work on roof tiles?
Remove moss and algae.
Water glass/stop + rain stop as a kind of sealing.
Also asking the question YWa if you see this.
From what I could see, they gave slightly different results quickly at first, but after a while I would say the difference is small. It would have been better to test different proportions of water. Now I don’t know if I would have gotten just as good results with, for example, 70/30%.
Edit: I see in the picture that the left piece (100%) looks lighter. But I don’t see that when I look at the test strip. Probably because that part is more directed toward the window where it’s positioned.
I have used Biltema wood protection and it has worked well and is a good price. But I'm looking for step 2 for beading effects. Do you think it would work with Biltema "Mur- och putsgrund"? It's almost similar to Beckers MINERAL REGNSTOPP V 5L.
Don't know if I can expect a response in this old thread, but I'm trying
HBSpeedStop: What did you use to polish off etching from the glass? I encountered a heavy rain right after applying silicone on the deck, and of course, it splashed up on the glass doors (which I obviously should have thought to protect...)
Mar Flo: Did it work with Mur o putsgrund? Out of Regnstopp V everywhere, and that's the one I've used before.
ESL 63 said:
I went hard this year with a pressure washer because my patience ran out a bit, and had to redo steps 1 and 2, and then used the recipe in this thread. Looks good so far. Will also try a little vinegar and other stuff.
