Building Materials and Construction Technology
tergo: [citat] concrete ceilings were not plastered, they were spray-painted with filler paint. if it is a plastered ceiling, it may be a stuccoed ceiling, common in older apartments.
RalleB: Use Tangit glue, it is a special glue for PVC/ABS that cold welds the parts together. https://www.pooldelar.nu/products/tangit-pvc-lim-125-gr
matknu: Hello. Vacation!!! I want to cast a sink in btg (a bowl-like type that you place on the counter) and cover the inside with glass mosaic. I have googled but can't find a guide, so I'm trying here if anyone has tips. -cement quality (additive to fine cement or fiber self-leveling compound?) - glue or adhesive mortar for the glass mosaic? - which adhesive for the drain? /Mats
RoAd: [citat] Thank you, I realized that after a couple of days, tried to remove the mess, spilled mineral spirits all over the project, threw everything in the trash, and have now decided to come up with another solution :)
JF.: [citat] It's a storage, so there are only two windows, one on the gable and one on one long side. Unfortunately, they didn't have tongue and groove, I asked for it as there will be the least waste 🙂
stockholmsamatören: Baking paper as an interlayer in the absence of a Bregott package should work and not stick to the glue. Could be wise considering that Bregott now almost costs more than beef fillet…
Spraggabenz: Bumping this thread. I've been thinking about repairing thin cracks inside my basement made of concrete hollow blocks, looks just like the pictures above. Is it a good idea to saw and chip open the cracks, insert some rebar, and then fill in and level with some concrete mortar? Has anyone tried it?
z_bumbi: Boiled linseed oil. Oil every other day/every third day for about two weeks. Apply thin layers and wipe off the excess before it becomes sticky. Then it should be enough to apply a new layer each year. However, you have a large horizontal surface, so there will be standing water, but the idea seems to be to have something that looks worn.
drerkle: [citat] I was able to incorporate it; it was a very old damage caused by pests that require moisture. Now it's been dry for 30+ years. So I only lost a week or so.
Kalle Olsson2: [citat] There is some kind of foil. Like the kind you put on car windows so it doesn't freeze. Approximately that thickness and silvery. Assume it's supposed to be the moisture barrier?
Sunnie: Super great tips @Mikael_L & & @krukan Did as you both said, sanded and primed with glue and it seems to hold :) It would have been tedious to start changing the board since it's 2sqm in the whole room that for some reason is OSB
Dowser4711: [citat] That looks excellent. Then you attach it properly to the studs and the board.
Albans doktor: [citat] There are fillers with various formulations that are usable after just a day or so. Whether you should use self-leveling or hand-applied filler depends on the surface area needing filling and the thickness of the layer. Hand-applied filler goes down to 0 mm while self-leveling needs a few mm. Check with your building supply store to see what they sell and recommend, but not with the
anders07: [citat] Thank you! They had a nice one in grey, but unfortunately not in beige... Apparently, the model/design is called "Bejmat" and is based on traditional Moroccan clay tiles, so now I have found some promising options, however, unfortunately none in Sweden...
fribygg: Welcome to the forum! It is possible, but not recommended. If you have a bad träfasad, I suggest you instead take down the panel, add crossing battens, insulate with mineral wool, apply Örnpapp or Windy, and nail on a new façade.
oliven1: [citat] it's not so that you can hang much heavier things than in regular plaster. absolutely no replacement for either OSB or plywood. it handles good load in one direction but no torque at all. so screwing up a painting or similar is no problem but just forget things you have a torque on like handrails, kitchen, hat shelf, hooks, etc.
Jokmok: [citat] Maybe aiming to try to get some 900 plinths down (however that's going to work). By the way, why aren't there ready-made plinths with feet? Shouldn't that be significantly more stable? Like an upside-down T. Then there would be good pressure downwards on the plinth as well and the risk of it tipping over would be reduced.
oscarthorn: Hello! I have an old house (1920) that was plastered at some point. The walls are painted with lime paint. Now we are going to repaint and thought about fixing some small blemishes but I'm unsure about what type of plaster is on the house. I haven't been able to find any documents about this. Does anyone have a guess or can give a hint? Thanks!
bygges: [citat] There are hard drywall screws from, for example, MFT and Essve. MFT has slightly smaller heads and more taper on the neck, slightly higher risk of it bulging than Essve, I noticed, but with Essve, several screws broke off at the neck when screwing into Ultraboard. Fiber drywall screws are more like chipboard screws that completely drill down into the drywall, so they should only be used
Förvaltare: The flooring installer I hired firmly advised against using wet room gypsum boards, due to poor adhesion for the glue. Good luck.
Nissens: [citat] They are more than that. They are a load-bearing part of the construction. An important part of the roof trusses. TS will probably find out next snow-rich winter if nothing else… or the next autumn storm.
mickelingon: [citat] Need gravel for poorly drained soil
Incitus: Hi, a rather silly question but I can't stop thinking about it. So this is mostly to reassure myself that I haven't done anything wrong. In my house from 1966 (modular house), the window casings were made with what I assume are pretty hefty boards (see picture). During renovation, I redid the casing, and then I started wondering whether it might be part of the load-bearing structure of the wall
ylva wiktröm: [citat] Thanks for the response, I will of course be in contact with the condominium association's board before doing anything.
Villa Verde: [citat] Thank you so much for the help! One like that will probably be perfect, I'm thinking I can paint over the black so it blends better with the facade. It also has wifi 😀
tommietall: I have a doorway that is not used, so I thought I would brick it up with lecablock. The wall is lightweight concrete and 12.5 cm deep, the blocks I used are unfortunately 12 cm. Now, when I'm about to apply plaster on one side it goes well, but on the other side it sticks out a few millimeters...Is there a way to save this project somehow or is it just a matter of starting over with blocks that
Oldboy: 150 x 150 cm... It was a gigantically fat chimney. How many flues?