Building Materials and Construction Technology
magnusss: I would take PL 600 http://www.tremco-illbruck.se/se/produkt/01142_index.html?markets=7&applications=15&products=1738&char=P
fridhem: A dehumidifier is something I recommend as it will always blow out dry air and draw out moist air from the foundation. If you have soil under the house, a construction plastic should be laid on the ground, which you fixate with stones. Otherwise, you will always get moist air rising from the ground.
pär h: Hello, I'm wondering if there is anyone here with experience or where one can turn to if they want to know or buy supplies for veneering with vacuum. Pär H
190Ecosworth: you can't do that because the floor is "floating" It's a living material that must be able to expand with temperature changes. It would be if the wall is attached to another wall and lies loosely on the floor then, but then it becomes flimsy.
gadjo: Here's how it goes; knock down the beam, repair with plaster mortar, glue on reinforcing mesh, and paint. We'll see if the old paint/plaster holds - otherwise, we'll have to screw up gypsum. Thanks for the response! Dan
jakim: A good vibrator is if you attach a carriage bolt to the rotary hammer and run it with impact against the mold.
Masses: Drainage is out of the question, unfortunately I was thinking about placing some pallets on the floor with plastic trays underneath and some metal brackets on the wall as spacers
Gurano1: Hello I have a mold problem and hope someone on the forum can give me tips and opinions. Last year I started extending the summer cottage. I managed to erect the frame, put underlayment on the roof, and lay tar paper to make it watertight. I put paneling on all the walls (except on one wall where I instead put up a tarp). I left the window openings open. There is still no floor – so it is
FredrikR: Thanks for the response, did it that way. Now there's 'just the rest' left :)
David250: Hello! Currently furnishing the upper floor in a Villa Växa from Myresjö. At the very top of the ceiling along the long sides, we've laid flooring so the spaces can be used as storage. The roof truss has "of course" support beams coming down (I've attempted to illustrate in a drawing) The support beams are the thin line between the ceiling and the joists. I've put a batten on the support beams,
lisette: here is picture of the beams in the ceiling. can't see them in the floor. but they look roughly the same.
imported_Byggaren: Considering that many years ago a fatal accident occurred in Malmö (where I was serving as a construction reviewer at the Building Committee at the time) due to a balcony collapse, I think you should have a municipal construction expert take a look at it. (This is about rebar corrosion and not just 'patching it up'.) The reinforcement bars have either been exposed without sufficient concrete
midvinter: We have done similar projects. Distance mat with mechanical ventilation (Jape). To insulate internally, the studs were set in the outer wall, after which the other studs were placed in these studs. We left a gap of just under 2 cm between the concrete slab and the stud closest to the slab. An uninsulated concrete slab has a humidity of 100%. Our slab looks quite good (dry). We sanded and applied
imported_Byggaren: [citat] I'm not really sure what Bauhaus and the others have. I usually buy from Theofils, which is a fastener specialist. They are located in Sthlm, Gothenburg, Malmö, and Jönköping (head office). They also deliver by mail order. But for heaven's sake, drill the holes in the cabinet door with a drill press. Otherwise, you won't get the holes perpendicular for the hinge cup, and it's not easy
Mikael_L: I don't think they need to be "as far out as possible." The ceiling can also be supported with the help of a beam all the way out just behind the panel, on top of the gable's vertical beams. Then I think some "save" on a couple of rafters by letting the roof rest on the gable peaks instead. In short, I suspect there are many "ideas" and techniques in this.
MMR: How on earth do I miter a regular quarter round (between the wall and the ceiling) when I have a sloped ceiling with about a 20-25 degree inclination, is it possible and if so how?
frebor: What is mögelstoppers? The inspector talked about 20mm holes. I don't really know how much it weakens the truss.
Gurano1: Hello! I have experienced exactly what is being asked about. I am working on an extension that I've paused for the winter. I managed to put up the roof/roofing felt and paneling. However, no floor, windows, or inner ceiling. Today when I was there and checked, my interior looked exactly as described - more so on the inside of the roof than on the framework. I am therefore interested in what/how
h-man: it stands with pillars on the ground so maybe it should be called a terrace (it actually was in the brochure) but it feels like a balcony... I'll see if I can find a constructor who can take a look and probably come back with many more questions...
Steksmar: Then it's lucky that the better knowledgeable ones exist, right:) Molly works (maybe a bit overkill though)
zniff: The requirements have changed. Now I'm looking for rectangular aluminum profiles, type 40x50 mm. Does anyone know where to find a good range in STHLM, or alternative materials? (Many furniture/kit sets are made with square alu profiles. I only need 3-4 meters. Preferably in white)
lastkaj: Apply putty in the usual way with fiberglass tape. If there are large gaps, you will need to press putty into the gap before applying the tape and adding more putty. Then you need to putty, sand, putty, sand, putty, and sand until you are satisfied. A careless preparation rarely pays off as the afterwork takes much more time, as you have now noticed. However, it can be resolved.
JanneL: Two links: http://forum.byggahus.se/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40743-frigolithus-nerbrunnit-pa-15-minuter.html http://www.aftonbladet.se/nyheter/article435872.ab Hope it's not such a house! Sundolitt, Dorotherm, and Palikka are other options, model LEGO blocks in EPS that are stacked and filled with concrete and reinforcement. I have a colleague who built a house with Sundolitt, and he is very
zno: [citat] A bit like comparing apples and oranges. The end result is not exactly the same... Huntonit should be more comparable to gypsum plank. Regardless of this, I join those who advocate for a completely smooth white ceiling. Personally, I don't see the ceiling as part of the decoration and want it as neutral as possible.
trekky76: It depends on how it looks. I took down a walk-in closet over the weekend and put some mortar in the joints. Then you just putty. You should almost check the floor beforehand. The easiest would probably be to lay a new floor? Is there any original floor underneath? If it's only a few millimeters difference, you can easily add extra insulation underneath.
nihtila: Hello! We need to build inward on the gables of our unfinished attic. Today, the studs are at the same level as the window, and we need to build out about 13-15 cm to achieve the desired wall thickness. Is it most suitable to first install horizontal studs at cc60 and then finish with vertical studs at the same cc60? It's worth noting that one gable will have a bathroom, so there will probably be
monika_b: The radon is primarily in the outer walls. Until today, I thought we had blue concrete in the inner walls too, but that wasn't the case. I understand exactly what you mean, but since we're going to completely renovate the whole house anyway, it wouldn't have been so serious for us to tear down all the walls. The remediation costs are to be determined in the coming days, but we have received a
v-g: As mentioned, 10 years is no guarantee for anything. Look at all the snelador standing in any weather; they may be "standing," but that's about it. Next year they might be on the ground. Having a guy to check it all out costs so little in comparison ;) Inspectors miss a lot. Their eyes are sharper than ours when they take a quick look at houses, but not better than what you can see once you've