Building Materials and Construction Technology
jeppeknaster: I'm doing the same thing at the moment. I have decayed floor joists in a bathroom that I need to renovate and have nailed new joists (45x195 180cm) to the existing ones (50x200) with 25-30 100mm nails. I think it should hold. I haven't glued them. I believe and hope it will hold :)
jon_h: Finja 360, Ardex 828, Casco Husfix, Maxit Väggspackel Snabb Fin 0-50, Maxit Väggspackel 0-100 for example. There are two hundred more, but I can't be bothered to write them.. :)
hydrolift: [citat] Long link: http://www.byggmax.se/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Byggmax-se-Site/sv_SE/-/SEK/ViewProductDetail-Start;pgid=CX5ISGKSnn1SR0EsBt86nJ260000QU_8WRS4?ProductUUID=bhYKAaAzQNUAAAERy34c2Ftp&CatalogCategoryID=w1QKAaAzMxIAAAERGGsatFtR&JumpTo=OfferList
Johan Gunverth: Or turn it around: unheated furnished "friggebodar" tend to "smell musty". You might want to keep it slightly heated to 5-10°. With a little more insulation, it might be a question of 30-40Wh spread over a year. A lit light bulb, in other words.
jon_h: Jihhha, I don't quite understand. You were going to tear out the wooden studs and build a new structure anyway, and it was when you removed them to do this that you discovered the old studs had mold growth? In what way is this a concern or entails an additional cost that you would then intend to claim from the previous owner? They were going to be removed anyway?
loll: have thought about it but it's a big thing with lots of angles and corners. actually think it can get worse than it is now, plus there's a big cabinet next to it :(
79:an: I used C-bruk when I remodeled my fireplace and installed an insert. The mortar has not cracked after 2 years of partially quite intense burning in the insert.
PeGe: I bought a 38mm untreated countertop at Silvan. From it, I sawed steps for the stairs, beveled the edges, and then oiled them. Works fine for me. To make the best use of the slab, the strips ended up in the direction of traffic, it would have been a bit nicer to have them the other way. I made a spiral staircase, so steps just over 60cm wide were sufficient.
hacker_olle: Would be super grateful if someone could help me with questions about the construction & dimensioning of studs! We are planning to extend our house with a rendered facade and are considering using a system for this from Paroc or Finja. The question is whether a construction of (Interior gypsum + 195mm studs + Exterior gypsum + Facade system) provides sufficient stability without cross studs on
saturnus: Those slightly different problems sometimes appear inexplicably, but what you can do is paint the sheet metal on the underside. It's best to use a matte paint, like zinc chromate or another rust-proof paint. It might not be easy to get zinc chromate, but synthetic primer, Häftgrund, might work just as well. Glossy paint doesn't work. For instance, water pipes (galvanized) get wet (on the
tokan: Thank you for the response. That was what I thought as well, but unfortunately not the company we talked to. Maybe we should simply talk to more companies.
jeppeknaster: Thank you so much, now I have a bit more meat on my knees! Now I'm going for it, and it will either succeed or fail, as they say.
jakim: You can use regular round hole saws. However, they become dull rather quickly. Then there are also hole saws for tile and brick.
Daniel_N: Pressure-treated wood seems like a bad idea to have indoors at all, it doesn't feel very healthy.
fridhem: Unfortunately, I have an inner measurement of 247 cm (long story), so it will be incorrect if I lay the chipboard down, but otherwise, I agree with that technique. Due to the construction company that built the foundation for me, I have a lot of work now afterward. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
magnusss: Great! Thanks for the help. Just need to cast then.
anasume: The load is transferred to an exterior wall so the strength of the slab/edge beam is not a problem. When it comes to fastening, it's probably best to over-dimension :-) I can arrange a support underneath since there is a good distance down to the patio door. Does anyone know anything about the price of steel beams and a good supplier?
magnusss: Hello If you can't find any nice lamps here, you'll probably never find one http://www.nostraforma.com/ (you didn't mention a budget=). Do you have a picture of the staircase as it's hard to give tips? Is it possible to hide cables in the wall? The mini spotlights should be of the LED type so they don't get too hot (it hurts to get skinned underfoot). Is it this kind of effect you're looking for?
peter.holm: You mean that instead of placing a Leacbalk, you form and reinforce in its place and then cast it together with the floor slab? Yes, it should be solid. Someone will of course have to calculate how much reinforcement should be in the beam. Great idea!
Farzan: Well, if it is a factory-produced house, and the setup is such that the liners are supposed to be ready to attach to the inside of the niche without further adjustment - then it is likely either as the carpenters say (that there's something crooked in the niche itself) or the windows are sloppily installed. Because if the two top images each show a corner of the same window, it's exactly how it
dreamie: Thanks for the advice, I will try to get hold of a stand. But if I use a jigsaw, it should be a bit safer. Regards, d
Zaphod: Yes, the idea of a walled platform has crossed our minds. Since a new slab with underfloor heating is going to be cast in the hall where the staircase is to be placed. What I'm not sure about yet is the exact measurement of how far the staircase will extend out, if it's a bit long the platform becomes very narrow unless it protrudes into a doorway, which isn't very successful... /Zaphod
sirbo: Bought mine two years ago at akb now optimera for 10.5 sek each
Farzan: Check this out: http://forum.byggahus.se/verktyg-maskiner-fordon/19088-hur-borra-vinkelraeta-hal.html