Building Materials and Construction Technology
5.2 racing: Use some kind of primer in that case. I painted with Beckers Snickerislip, and there were no problems. It was four years ago and it hasn't come off yet at least. Ask the paint dealer.
Norell: Silicone may have difficulty adhering properly to concrete, better to look for a suitable outdoor sealant or use chemical anchor, it should be tight.
avendere: I filled the gap between the ceiling/wall and only waited until it was surface dry... looked fine for about a week, then the paint cracked... not the joint, it held up, it was the ceiling paint that cracked. But I touched it up last when the rest of the room was finished (after a couple of weeks), and it turned out great. It's been standing for over six months now and still looks good... so if
imported_Byggaren: [citat] M6: 8-10 mm hole M8: 10-12 mm hole M10: 12-14 mm hole. You can buy full-thread millimeter rods cheapest at Swedol, Biltema or Jula. They are available as both galvanised and stainless. Since lightweight concrete is corrosive to iron, stainless is the safest choice. On the other hand, cement slurry protects the rod from direct contact with the lightweight concrete. _________________ The
s60: it works well with regular plaster if the plan is to spackle and paint on it later...
jawen: Since your basement lacks insulation underneath, ground moisture will always rise into the floor due to capillary forces, and the moisture coming from below will always cause the paint to peel in spots or all over. The best thing you can do for a neat appearance is to lay tiles, as the moisture can exit through the joints and be ventilated away. You can also lay electric underfloor heating if you
avendere: [citat] Where in my post do you read that the construction was good? quote: -------------------- however, they are nailed... by a clumsy person in the 70s so the boards are smashed in some places.. but that's another matter.. =) --------------------- I assumed that my use of the term "clumsy person" was a hint that I DO NOT consider the construction to be good. Myself, I have installed double
Styx: As mentioned - if you are worried about underfloor heating, attach it with PL400 or equivalent. If there is no underfloor heating, drill holes and fasten it with screws.
andersmc: Keep in mind that if you buy standard studs with a length of 2400mm, it doesn't mean they are EXACTLY 2400. They might be slightly longer, 0-20 mm maybe. So you still need to cut them to the correct length.
genes: v-g: You can moisture-proof just about anywhere if you want, for the sake of feeling... Fridhem asked a question, and all I mean is that if you use a little common sense, you don't have to make it harder than it is!
LindaW: Called a construction company today regarding gypsum and it was ridiculously expensive... the primer I would need about 0.5 liters of was sold in large containers for 750 kronor. Doesn't seem like a good option to spend so much on something that won't be used again. I was recommended another product that sounded very interesting. Isola-Platon Hey'di mortar which is available pre-colored. It
Per Eskilsson: It could be German paving bricks from ABC-klinker, they are 200x100x45 mm. The paving brick could also be from Denmark. Kakel & Tegel in Malmö displays and sells them, but does not have them in stock for immediate delivery.
Styx: Yes, that's what I was a bit afraid of too.. I will test paint on a small piece I have lying around before.. Otherwise, it will have to be regular plywood and make sure to prime it quickly - before it gets wet. How that's going to be done this winter/spring :)
Pysslarn: Seems like a good idea, but especially for new construction. Or have I (as usual) misunderstood everything??? Kind regards, Ronnie
ktm250: Refractory mortar and refractory brick are excellent for outdoor use. Refractory is used inside the firebox itself. All bricks absorb moisture to some extent. It depends on the firing. When you write cementing, what do you mean? Plastering, casting, slurry? You write that you want to build the grill from natural stone and cement or concrete. What do you mean? Are you going to lay the natural
BearTheFear: I was thinking of reusing my old tiles and I'm wondering if there's a smart way to remove old adhesive that has stuck to the tiles?
jawen: An alternative to reduce the construction height could be to use iron beams like I-beam or HEA/HEB, then maybe HEB 14 i.e. 14 cm thick beams would be sufficient, but check this with someone who can calculate the loads. Used beams are often for sale; they are often found around industrial areas in piles, so knock on doors and ask what they want for them. Best regards, Jawen
JanneSjo: I have no idea how well it works to keep old subframes and build on with "upper parts". But I have added a half floor to my house from 27 degrees to 45 degrees. It was done with completely new roof trusses that were fastened between the old ones at 1200mm distances (the old ones were 100mm apart). We kept the old subframes because the roof on the ground floor is attached to them—and there was
gryden: Thanks for the answers, luckily I still have the thresholds so it'll be easy to glue the filler pieces there. Of course, it's PL600 I have at home, lucky you mentioned it :)
ByggaNytt: It is indeed an advantage to be able to seal VP pipes/hose with a bit of silicone at the plastic, BUT you can't tear down the wall afterwards... So as the builders above say, drill and seal to the best of your ability. You seal the pipe/hose externally with a small piece of latex at the cables!
morty81: I would have driven a 1200mm pipe into each end and placed a post on top. It sits rock solid, rarely moves, looks nice, etc. This method is used when installing fences, among other things. If the ground consisted solely of sand down to a meter deep, this method would obviously not be of interest. Regards
Farzan: I agree with Hemmakatten...for younger children, it's really just pleasant to share. I think there's been a bit of a craze about everyone needing their own room. We have four children aged 4-10 and four bedrooms, but right now only three are used...because the three youngest share ONE room! You can divide rooms in "softer" ways using curtains, screens, and the like. Create a shared play area with
fef: I used 20mm on cc 300mm. If you have a narrower dimension, the hose probably needs to be placed closer together. I recall the plumber saying that you could have 100 m on a loop. The hose is sold in 120 m lengths, so it might work? Also, be sure to get the hose deep enough to ensure good heat distribution.
hempularen: As mentioned, you need to bring in a structural engineer to calculate the dimensions required. It is also often a question of whether the foundation where the pillars will stand can support the load. Since it is a garage, there are likely (not sure) requirements for fire protection. A garage is considered its own fire compartment. That means the glued laminated beam must be dimensioned to
v-g: A moulding, perhaps? Think of the kind you have around wall panels.
Sommartorparn: Here is a good thread about the difference between spruce and pine flooring http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggnadsvard/77081-grangolv.html