Hello!

I'm looking for some type of hardware to join two boards (laminated oak) together, parallel with a distance of about 250 mm. It should be like a "pipe" or something with round washers at the ends that are screwed into the board. So a smaller board can "hang" in four fasteners under a larger one... And it doesn't matter if the hardware itself looks a bit nice... Metal, shiny or matte in chrome/silver color or something like that...

I have tried looking at kitchen manufacturers because I thought they might have something similar for mounting shelves/bar counters, etc., but without results...

Has anyone seen anything similar? Do I really have to have them custom made? It doesn't seem like something very advanced, but I'm completely stuck and can't figure out where it might exist...
 
I
Buy regular nickel-plated water pipes from the plumber (approximately 10-15 mm in diameter) and cut them to the desired length. Then take a threaded rod of suitable size (M8-M12) and cut it to length. Slide the pipe over the threaded rod and countersink a nut with a washer on the top and bottom of the shelves with a wood drill bit. It couldn't be simpler.

Or you can check out http://www.hettich.com as the largest fittings manufacturer.

You can also look at http://www.theofils.se which offers both Hettich and Blum fitting ranges + other stuff.
_______________
Byggaren
 
Oh! I almost understood everything! And you seem to have perfectly understood what I was rambling about! But, can you explain the thing about countersinking the nut... I get the idea, but... Do you think it's possible to do it so that the nut doesn't show from the top side of the board in any way? It's supposed to work as a tabletop with a shelf underneath, and ideally, I don’t want the nut to be visible on the top side of the board. It doesn’t matter from underneath... Can one drill (with a Forstner bit??!?!) only halfway through and use some super duper glue to glue the nut??!!? Or attach the nut in some other secret way? The shelf only needs to hold a small night lamp, an alarm clock, and a small children's book. And maybe a three-year-old who decides to try climbing... (No, it doesn't need to hold for that last one!)
 
I think I figured it out myself...
Can you drill in and countersink the nut (without going all the way through the board (assuming of course that the nut is not thicker than the board)) and then place a BIG washer (maybe 30 mm in diameter and a center hole the size of the nut's hole) between the nut and threaded rod (is that what it's called?) which you make extra holes in around the center hole and screw into the wood board? That should work, right?

//A
 
another option is otherwise what is called KEA-beslag fyrkant at thuressons...
has anyone seen such with smaller dimension than M8?
 
I
Lillblomma said:
I think I figured it out myself...
Can you drill in and countersink the nut (without going all the way through the board (of course assuming the nut is not thicker than the board)) and then put a BIG washer (maybe 30 mm in diameter and a center hole the same as the nut's hole) between the nut and the threaded rod (is that what it's called?) which you make extra holes around the center hole and screw into the wooden board? That should work, right?

//A

Rampamuffar, as the IT guy suggests, would probably be best. You thread them into the upper shelf (at least 16 mm thick*) from the underside, and the M6 thread and threaded rod (for tubes that do not need to have a larger internal diameter than 8 mm) can handle the load you mentioned, even if the 3-year-old decided to climb on the shelf. Otherwise, as you are considering.

And a Forstner bit can be used to drill. (You can even file down the tip to a minimum to prevent it from piercing through, e.g., when drilling for concealed hinge cups, etc.)

*If you have shelves thinner than 16 mm, the rampamuffar will probably go through. They require at least 12 mm + what's left of the shelf above the nut. In that case, do as you planned. Drill from underneath and glue a nut in place. But then I suggest a nut called Möbelknapp from Clas Ohlson (art. no: 11-1230). The point with it is that you get a larger glue surface against the wood surface and the 'button' is so thin that you can drive in small brads into the side walls of the hole and then 'fill in' the rest with Plastic Padding for additional strength. It also has an M6 thread. Then threaded rod, washer, and tube.
______________
Byggaren
 
Perfect!
Can you buy those rampamuffar "anywhere"? Regular hardware stores like K-rauta or Bauhaus?
I was probably thinking of a 20 mm board so it turns out well. Thanks also for the tip to file down the tip of the drill. We have a cabinet door that's unmounted, risking going through when drilling for the hinge, and we just haven't had the energy to deal with it. But now we dare to!

Thanks!
//A
 
I
Lillblomma said:
Perfect!
Can you buy those rampamuffar "anywhere"? Regular hardware store like K-rauta or Bauhaus?
I was thinking of using a 20 mm board so it will be good. Thanks also for the tip to file down the tip of the drill. We have a cabinet door that is unmounted risking going through when we drill for the hinge and we just haven't gotten around to it yet. But now we dare to do it!

Thanks!
//A

I'm not really sure what Bauhaus and the others have. I usually buy from Theofils, which is a fastener specialist. They are located in Sthlm, Gothenburg, Malmö, and Jönköping (head office). They also deliver by mail order.

But for heaven's sake, drill the holes in the cabinet door with a drill press. Otherwise, you won't get the holes perpendicular for the hinge cup, and it's not easy to keep the spade drill bit (fi 45 mm) in place at the start either.
_________________
Byggaren
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.