Building Materials and Construction Technology
ChristianH: Thank you for the help. With your clarification, it was easy to sort the concepts and be able to ask a coherent question to "my" calculation engineers.
Pedda_P: I haven't made a drawing yet but just realized that there won't be a beam on the short side..... But if I put it this way: If I use a sole plate in the wall 45x195, and then a top plate of the same dimension resting on two 95x95 posts about 3.5 meters apart, with a span of just under 180 (cc60). Does that work or does the top plate need to be, according to my first sketch, 95x195 or even 95x220?
P-plats: It's a shelf from Ikea I was thinking of using...
andersmc: I set such posts a bit up, so there's a little air between the plate and the post. This also allows for height adjustment if needed in the future.
Milkshaken: Gnurullen: Keep in mind that foxes and minks can also dig their way into the house... My former neighbor had big problems with that; he had to set out fox traps initially before he could dig down sleepers (like the kind used for a dog kennel). So my tip... Dig down sleepers, logs, or large boulders under the walls and don't forget to do the same even at an outdoor enclosure.
Christer L: Looking for a carpenter with extensive experience with so-called light beams for walls, ceilings, and floors for a construction project in Kungälv,
injonil: Hello! I have sketched a simple construction for a 2-car carport. Approximately 7.5 x 5.5 m, straight roof beams sloping backwards at 10 degrees, supported by two pillars and a laminated beam at the front, and three pillars and a wall plate at the back. The distance between the roof beams will be 4m as the roof extends 0.5m forward and backward. According to the sizing table, 75x220 with cc600
synpunkter: I am sure that tiles set in adhesive stick well enough directly on Leca, but the problem is often that a mortared Leca wall is not completely smooth since all blocks do not align exactly with each other. Then you need to straighten the wall, for example, by plastering it. If the wall is straight enough to tile directly, I would still plaster or scrape the wall with mortar first.
Karro80: Hello Familjen GBG We haven't gotten too far yet, we just recently gained access to the house and are currently tearing out old carpets. If you get there first, please let us know how it went and what it turned out to be :)
Vlad: Hello, Does anyone have tips on hinges that can solve the problem in the attached image? Basically, they are regular hinges for cabinet doors, but what makes it tricky are the dimensions. Thanks in advance! .Vlad.
Rikard Ainz: Okay, a bit more structured: Electrician involved from the start, even before I begin detailed planning. Need to find something to hang clothes on (from the wardrobe that will be moved/removed) and a suitable place for that. Then the lining must be removed from surrounding floor connections to see how the floor structure is built and know what needs to be purchased. Then demolish the wall in
Richard A: It works like regular gypsum, but don't forget gloves when working, the fibers are sharp.
leguanen: Thank you for the answer, Byggaren. Then I guess it's just a matter of starting to tear down the mess. It's hard to face, but if there's no shortcut, then there's none. Do you know what it might cost to hire a builder to do it? (applies to 100m2) /Leguanen
AKW: Thanks for the response, almost suspected it. Have to try to come up with a good way to switch them and remove those that are in the way before casting. Probably need to consult a carpenter on site so the whole house doesn't collapse. :)
Kirsi: Have you looked at toning the chimney just 38X38 masonry, I recently built one myself (without having previously done any masonry, I might add)
eestere: I have not found any credible ones. The craftsmen, builders, and authorized people I know, have read, and heard about are the last people on earth I would involve in my construction. There's way too much cheating today and it costs an unjustified amount for the slightest thing. That's why I choose to be the KA for my construction. Demanding and advanced building moments should be proposed by a
Mikael_L: It shouldn't really matter if it's the particle board or the plaster forming the L around the door or window opening. The important thing is that there is at least one uncut board in the joint since the risk of movement and settling is greater there than in a whole wall section without openings. Particle board behind can be seen as a replacement for a backing seam plate according to bygganytt's
Lillblomma: Hi! I'm building a staircase with joists and sides/risers in MDF. The treads will be in solid oak panels. I'm unsure whether we should fill or use latex to fill the gaps between MDF/MDF, MDF/drywall, etc., before painting? It will likely move a bit. The staircase is on a wooden floor structure (older). Is latex better to prevent cracking? //A
imported_Byggaren: Should have seen the stairs. The wall is load-bearing. You need to place a laminated beam similar to the one over the other wall. ____________ The Builder
coztello: Has been resolved with pipes. Paid 700:- for 24m 30mm pipes....
Andjon: Ok, then I have rented Sanerfräs and will tear everything down. The question remains: Is it ok to tile on C-Puts? or should one choose B-puts?
magnusss: haha! ByggaNytt: It was entertaining to read! Sometimes it's better to think a little extra. Here are 2 clips of others who should have thought before http://www.rubicon-trail.com/public/parking-not-set.wmv http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wiMeeruwdk
pbengtsson: Hello Has anyone used an aluminum profile instead of the traditional window sill, The reason is that I have aluminum on the outside of the window, and I also have some terrace doors that would benefit from something more durable to walk on than metal. Another advantage is that it is stiff and straight.
WhoCan: I have hacked out a brick wall that is very red. I would like to tone it down so that it becomes more reddish-brown. Is there any way to do this? :confused:
v-g: At CC30 you don't need to reinforce except where mixers/cabinets/sinks are supposed to be as far as I know. Check here to see the different possibilities. The Gyproc is fiberglass-reinforced in the middle so it should hold, one would think.
EmMi: Do you need to measure the moisture in the wall studs before applying the age-resistant moisture barrier to avoid trapping moisture? When the underfloor heating in the slab is turned on, it is said that certain moisture rises from it. Can that moisture make the studs so moist that you can't apply the moisture barrier? Always grateful for quick answers!
ChrilleK: No one to answer? Can I screw drywall directly onto the wall/ceiling pitch without risk?