Building Materials and Construction Technology
Kirsi: Thank you so much for all the answers, this helps me to move forward with the renovation! Thanks :)
carlbanan: There is a company in Tärnsjö that sells doors and windows very cheaply, they have a lot of second sorting (e.g. a small scratch on the inside of the frame or something). We bought 2 exterior doors and 5 interior doors of the brand diplomat for about 9000:- The company is probably called K-B gross or something like that. Not exactly close to Stockholm, but if you can save several thousand, then
hakaninorr: I have built a tool shed and am now wondering what I can use to cover small cracks, holes, and gaps - is there any kind of caulk or putty suitable for pine in outdoor environments that can preferably be painted over?
JoA68: I think your builder is completely off, a common rule and especially one of the weak dimension in this context is way too vague, you will experience a significant deflection. I am facing the same problem and have found this online. Download the dimensioning table via the following link. http://www.svensktlimtra.se/page.asp?id=36 Good luck //Joachim
mikael76: Hit the key and posted my response before it was finished. The Administrative Regulations therefore address everything not shown in drawings and descriptions, etc. Hus AMA is a tool regarding tolerances, execution, etc. Then there are also more AMAs; for example, Anläggnings AMA, Kyl- and El AMA.
Snurre: There are some good pictures if you search for glasverandor on www.qvesarum.se maybe good inspiration?
Chrille_f: Hi It could be foam insulation judging by the picture. Also looks like sheets. Completely impossible to handle. I don't know what asbestos looks like, but it might come in different formats. Will search on the internet.
MrElliott: Unless the cassette is against what you're building to, I agree, it will definitely look nicer. If you want to be 100% sure, fireproof stone (yellow) is available to buy. However, it's usually in half-bricks. /MrE
mandg: my guess is that it is expensive to custom order from a window/door manufacturer, contact your local carpenter, he can probably help you at a more reasonable cost.
spocks_beard: Unfortunately, I don't have room for height. Existing floor builds 34mm, my proposal builds 37mm, i.e. +3mm. It feels okay, but not more… I'll do as you say, screw on a board and see if it feels solid. If it doesn't, I'll have to densify with studs in between, nothing more. :)
Bigfoot: The length of wood doesn't change that much, it moves mostly in width.
dalle: Planning a "spa" in the basement and considering having a bathtub and shower on a slightly elevated level, but now the question is how to do it practically. The conditions are a room in the basement of about 25 m2 where I thought of elevating part of it. The slab is uninsulated. We also have plans for underfloor heating (but we'll take that in another thread). I was thinking of raising it 1-2 dm;
JerkaV: Hello, I have an old house from 1923, with an extension from the mid-1950s. The extension has a flat metal roof on which we would like to build a wooden deck/patio. There is already a railing and a patio door leading out to the roof. But the metal roof gets quite hot to walk on during the summer. Unfortunately, we don't have any construction drawings of the house. So now a few questions before
saturnus: Classe probably still has some of those. I myself have bought a screw/machine thread with a hole in the middle for a cover plate that you press on. Then there is a version with a plastic washer under the screw head where you can press on a semi-round cover plate. There are also specialty stores (TH Nyman in Mö) that have some of those in their range.
Subscream: Yes, as the title says. Has anyone built with these and how did it turn out? Considering installing them in the upstairs bathroom (which will be furnished this summer)... but I'm not sure if we dare to have it in the shower corner.
chali: Hello I have a small question about whether all the exterior walls in a log house are load-bearing? The previous owner made an addition on one side that we want to open up to (about 50% of the wall). The wall we want to open is on the short side of the house (gable side). We will keep about 40 cm of the wall on one side and about 4 meters on the other side (the opening will be about 330 cm). We
jawen: 5-10cm inside the finished wall I have my hydronic, but I am not sure about the "ultimate" solution energy-wise. The most important thing is to have the first piece from a manifold along an exterior wall, and work inward. Best regards, jawen
anaitis: If there is a pipe in the bathroom that leaks a bit, it doesn't necessarily have to smell right there. The leak can be inside the wall or in the floor.
douglas72: it turned out like in the picture alt.2 (spiro-end-plate). For me, no disturbing condensation water has formed on the facade.
Paddy: Thank you for all the tips. :) I will immediately look into the book more closely. Yes, I do believe one could manage it by oneself if I just knew all the steps, and it sounds like the book might give a good grasp of that. I have a strange penchant for thoroughness, so on that front, I feel confident. ;) I'll try the PM button next time as well. There are many here who could shine a little. ;)
snickarboden: 10 cm applies to load-bearing structures, but ultimately it is the chimney sweep who has the final decision. It might be quite sensible not to have wood against the chimney at all because it gets extremely hot if there is a chimney fire, and that is the danger that should be considered, not how hot or cool it gets during normal firing. /Kent
jawen: I have discussed this with many, even though I actually know what works or not. And it probably won't turn out well to plaster on eps/cellplast no matter how you do it, the best option is probably to glue a thin mineritskiva (as long as possible) that you can plaster thinly, but you will probably get seams anyway unfortunately since the materials move differently. I struggled to solve it so I got
shelby67: [citat] Ok! so 120mm x 8mm expansion bolt should maybe be enough
Fredrik.engdahl: use sheet metal studs and a sheet metal track instead. it doesn't matter if the bottom track is not level
ppalm: Hello I used this for my beam for the terrace as I have concrete hollow blocks. If you have, for example, an insulated slab or edge beam with Styrofoam as base elements, you should consider it beforehand. First, drill a hole according to the instructions and blow it clean with air. Then insert a chemical anchor plug or whatever it's called, a plastic plug with lots of holes in it, this is a must
shelby67: I have a feeling it's German, but not sure? Doesn't need to be budget.
Pedda_P: Fantastic! Super thanks! And the lady is happy :)
magnusss: Is it not possible to add reinforcement on the top side of the beam? Like flat iron to compensate for the loss of load-bearing capacity.
Bastefallarn: I'm no expert, but I talked to a tile guy a while ago and he absolutely recommended spacing 300 mm on center when tiling, precisely to reduce the risk of cracks due to flex. I even think he said there were requirements for it. Additionally, the maximum length for a 45x220 without support is around 4.2m with normal deflection tolerance, according to our engineer, so it sounds like you might have