Building Materials and Construction Technology
bolton: Planning to frame an exterior wall in the basement. Maybe a silly question but... Do any of you know whether Byggmax steel studs are good or not?
RRLasse: Saw an episode of Roomservice where they applied broad spackling on the walls and then lacquered the spackle to achieve a "concrete look". It might be a method for you to consider. If you don't want to do it yourself, you will probably need to contact a painter if you want it done that way.
Jef: Attached is a picture of the whole thing, you can see what I mean in the bottom right corner. A quick extra question, should I set up studs and place a Purus plate around the well?
HusByggarTomten: Now, it's not me who started the thread, but my walls cracked, despite the strips, yes. However, the microlite managed to hold up. Even though microlite appeared later, which mitigates because the movements become smaller over time, I wanted to be sure. Both gypsum joints in the ceiling and walls cracked. (not all, of course, but in some places) The reason in my case I guess might be due to a
jon_h: Not exactly the best article I've read. Among other things, one should absolutely not use sandspackel as a base for ceramics. Then again, the tile setter in the pictures seems rather inexperienced, but maybe that doesn't really matter.
Marrex: Hello! We have just started building our house and now have our first conflict with the house seller. We are building a 2-story house with a basement, and according to the building permit, we must fill around the basement. We were planning to do this ourselves when the house is finished, as well as build a wooden deck around the house. Now we are in a situation where the seller says that it is a
fn76: MDF is not ideal for screwing from the edge side and that's where the hinges will sit, which also have to support a lot of weight. Make a frame of pine, extra wood at the lock case, strut piece in the middle of the door. Fill with Styrofoam sheets and press two 7 mm MDF on each side. In that case, you should preferably have access to a good press.
torrum: Hello, does anyone know how to mill a groove in the facade for a window flashing? It should just be a thin metal milling so you can insert the flashing 5 mm deep into the board. Suggestions on tools and model? Something you can rent at places like Ramirent or where you can buy it? Please explain how you have done it? Thanks in advance!!
Lymmeln: Received a response that they are waiting for results from a certification body (don't know which one) and thought it would be ready in January.
petersson79: Look at those sheets used when making molds, they are really stable. Quite expensive, but maybe not a lot is needed,
lassedolm: A good tip is to make test pieces and get the angle in the corner that fits! Use a miter saw and you will see that you get it right, Good luck
SM7TJC: This applies to both exterior walls and interior walls. Personally, I think that should be sufficient, but then again, I am truly a layman in these matters.
snickar_lasse: Hello! You must have an energy-demanding house, if I understood correctly. Are the exterior walls lacking insulation? I see that you are from Skåne, where perhaps insulation in the exterior walls is not necessary. Adding spacers sounds better, but I think the problem remains. It condenses behind the boards when it is cold outside.
snuttjulle: If the crack is going to be hidden with a board, why bother about the crack underneath? Mouldings are often placed between the chimney and the wall precisely so that cracks can exist and move without being visible.
jakobnm: [citat] Thank you very much. Those of you who have failed at joining countertops (maybe someone has), what mistakes did you make? And is there anyone who succeeded with another method than the one mentioned above, how did you do it? It would be interesting to hear some experiences on the subject.
ClasseClas: Hi, check this out: http://www.masonite.se/Masonite/masonite.nsf/5321a5bac19c56dfc1256cd1006ba7ca/6f964bfd68d674e0c125701c00299dbf!OpenDocument
Tupla: [citat] What do you mean by it doesn't work? The snow load is usually the determining factor, and if you also account for "betongpannor etc. = 0.9" and for example Överkalix 3.5, you get a significantly over-dimensioned construction and can manage with a beam of 90x315 and roof joists 45x195. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Bloink: Usually works just as usual. However, the manufacturer cannot guarantee that they will have the same properties after 6 months, as originally intended.
kimpo: Calm down about 3 - 4 weeks. Gradually start the heating, i.e., increase a little at a time.
Tjacko: Alright, I became unsure if I was really right. But since I was doing the same thing this summer and was going crazy before I got it right, I was quite confident in my case for once ;-)
Linus_E: feel free to check the thread if anyone wants to see the results.. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/socialt-projekt/83160-gammalt-blir-som-nytt-mitt-i-skane-3.html#post735330
Daniel_N: [citat] True, that's a special case. Just as you say, they can be a bit tricky to saw with. I think the best in that category is Makita's BR13, with only the top 4 teeth bent downwards. Despite this, jigsawing is clearly best done from the underside...
SCB: Have installed Rusta's cheapest laminate flooring in two bedrooms at the summer cottage. Easy to lay and good fit on the pieces. Very satisfied considering the price.
Tigersågen: Hm, then I wasn't completely off track. If I interpret you correctly, there is an insignificant expansion in the length of wooden studs at elevated temperatures and humidity levels, but it's not something that is taken into account when building. I am a happy amateur and hate toe-nailing mostly because it becomes terribly difficult to correct. Instead, I am a heavy user of nail plates, angle
styrman1: Dano and Gyproc have 42 regardless of the width. As long as it's regular 13mm boards.
jon_h: Do you want rift-sawn? Åttersta sawmill has extremely fine rift-sawn floors, in mixed widths, but they are not particularly cheap, I think they are around 400-450 kronor per square meter. Can't remember if that was with VAT.. But they will be used in my old cottage anyway. Unbeatable feeling.
Swetrot: 1000kg is a piece of kaka for a room. Imagine Christmas dinner with the TJOCKA family. We easily have 2 tons sitting around the table on Christmas Eve. And then there's dancing around the Christmas tree...
Speaker: Hello and thank you for the response! My question regarding carpentry wood or regular "building trade wood" mostly concerns whether it's possible to achieve a sufficiently nice appearance with the building trade wood. Most of what you buy there doesn't seem intended to be visible in normal circumstances, especially not indoors. Perhaps I have mixed up the terms a bit, but what I meant by
Onelight: Hello! I have a small problem. We have a chimney breast that is leaking between the roof and floor (downstairs/upstairs) and is impossible to plaster without tearing up most of it. We currently have an open fireplace in which I will install an insert. If I use chimney lining, I must chisel up the chimney breast to cast a crown around the pipe from the insert. If I choose to use a pipe instead