Building Materials and Construction Technology
frjo7205: Should be available for loan at the library. Another option is to request public procurement documents, could be included in the material (especially in the case of international procurements).
Dr.SiC: We are considering building an additional floor and right now I'm thinking about the ridge beam and the load that must be carried by the first floor. The reason for a ridge beam is, of course, the ceiling height and the possibility of having floor space all the way out to the outer wall (even if it becomes very low there). But currently, on one gable of the house, there is an "overhang" over the
mullemeck2: I am renovating my house. These are the exterior walls I’m talking about, and they are made of brick (internally covered with plaster and externally with 100mm of styrofoam and plaster). In one room, the wallpaper (with several layers of newspaper) was still there since the house was built in 1940, and there was a bit of mold behind it, which I assume is quite normal and should just be removed.
bloomper: Hello! We have a house from the early 30s that we are renovating room by room, and now it's the basement's turn. In one of the rooms, there was wood paneling on half the wall (the part below ground) which, of course, is not a good idea, so it has now been removed. Behind the wood paneling, there was a somewhat thick layer of cement mortar with embedded wooden studs, so after some chipping away,
imported_Byggaren: You should probably avoid splicing the existing glulam beam and instead focus on laying a completely new glulam beam all the way. At least if you want it column-free at the splice. Otherwise, the load-bearing capacity for what's resting on both the existing and the extended beam will go down the drain. However, there's a way to hang up the splice and avoid the column underneath. First, you need a
PX-21: Should I have done ... You know otherwise everything ends up on the floor ;) .. No defrosting of the car etc. Best regards
Styx: [citat] What is most stupid is not realizing it was meant as a joke, the part of the post where the screw was to be removed, that is..
Hasse C: Does anyone know if there is a similar store in central Sweden? I have previously visited a store in Jönåker south of Nyköping called Begagnade Byggvaror. Unfortunately, it has now closed. I am looking for wide floorboards with just the right patina.
imported_Byggaren: You can of course rebuild the floor upstairs so that you can properly support the weight and transfer it to the central post in the staircase. This should not be a problem if you contact a manufacturer of spiral staircases. However, I guess you might not want a staircase from Weland in the house? :D Alternatively, you can seek support in the ceiling instead and hang the joists from the truss,
imported_Byggaren: Whether a wooden house is new or old, it can make noises. This depends on how it is built and how moist the timber was when it was constructed. If you take an old half-timbered house (often built of oak), it may creak less or more, and the difference depends on how meticulous the builder was with dry timber and accurate measurements; otherwise, this construction has all the prerequisites to
Staffans2000: Counter-sunk bolts are available at the nearest hardware store.
anaitis: One wants the larger cross-sectional dimensions to reduce the risk of buckling. Buckling is a stability problem that works somewhat like when you take a ruler and push from both ends towards the middle. Suddenly the load-bearing capacity disappears completely. This is buckling. The risk of buckling is assessed by calculating the slenderness ratio, which is essentially (there are many details to
Lasse Lucidor: There is only plaster on certain parts of the smoke channel, it falls off very easily when scraping with a steel brush. So maybe the entire smoke channel doesn't need plastering.??.. I have bought work lighting now, so I will sweep and scrape off the old loose plaster this week and then see how it looks underneath.. I can upload more pictures when that's done... .... Thanks for the answers /LASSE
Mats: It was a clear improvement :) Was just there where I was a few years ago
ByggaNytt: Which material/color/finish do you mean? If you want regular white shelves, they can be found in any well-stocked lumberyard/building supply store.
ByggaNytt: As stated above, shall be where the rule does NOT exist: http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/utegips.jpg http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel/panel_1.jpg
Styx: [citat] Somewhere in the house the sewer should go down into the crawl space.. Can't you install a Y-pipe there somewhere and connect the "new" sewer?
Mäster: http://www.blocket.se/vi/18978338.htm?ca=6_s http://www.blocket.se/vi/18807620.htm?ca=6_ A small selection of ready-made traverses, just cut down to the desired length, probably cheaper than building it yourself, and easier...
Mäster: You should be able to glue the plaster with a thick adhesive, like PL200, 400, 600. You can then attach the shelves by drilling plugs into the concrete,, Or you can maybe putty and paint directly on the concrete, the paint and putty retailer can probably advise better... If you want it easy to mount shelves and such, you can otherwise screw a chipboard or OSB onto the concrete.
imported_Benno: http://www.svets.se/2.a9399510651ebd2b0800043316.html Here is something that should be of interest for both beginners and others regarding welding.
anaitis: [citat] At the point where the air's ability to dissolve moisture is exceeded by the actual moisture amount. This will not occur with the intended wall. The problem with single-layer plaster on cellular plastic has not been condensation (which normally does not occur on the outside of a wall) but the construction's sensitivity to leaking rainwater.
smidifix: How does an oak countertop fare if there are low temperatures in the house?? I don't have any heating on right now, it will take a while, but I can put a fan there. But the question is whether it will swell or crack, there are angled corners so there will be joints on it. Is there a risk that it will crack apart when it gets cold or when I turn on the heat? Maybe the wrong section, but I'm giving
Tomas Gran: I am going to build a loft in the children's room. I have a ceiling height of 3.80, so there is space. The loft will be 2.10*3.40m. My question is if a glulam beam will hold as an attachment point across the room (3.40m). What dimensions does this beam need to be? How do I best attach it to the walls, one wall being brick and the other drywall? The joists will then run from this glulam beam to a
Totte_S: Thank you Bergling, I also found yesterday that Moelven has it in their assortment. It seems like the retailers prefer not to stock this, in their eyes, odd length. I have managed to solve mine in another way, but it seems like there are more people who have the same problem. You can inform here injonil if you find it.
Kutte Heitmann: [citat] I have the same idea about laying flooring in the attic, and now when I read that 1200 is too much maybe it can work in an attic with a gap of 960, or? Otherwise it will be råspont....
scenic46: Depending on how thick the hatch is, you can use old wardrobe locks. They are installed on the inside but have quite a long key, so a hatch thickness of about 30cm is not a problem. They are still available in stores. Otherwise, an old deadbolt lock is easy to use. Many homeowners have such old locks lying around. Interior door locks, which like deadbolt locks are embedded in the side of the