Building Materials and Construction Technology
Metamatik: Well, I saw when Cheapy was in Malmö that they had granite slabs. Bauhaus also has them, but they are different types of gray shades and aren't really marble but crushed stone. The thing is, we've ordered kitchen countertops in black granite and also ordered for the windows, but I think overall it's too much with an extra five thousand for three windowsills. Sure, it looks nicer when it's
torparkillen: Thank you for both answers. We'll see. Part of me leans towards removing the insulation and laying down protective paper, while another part thinks it might be nice to put up a different ceiling. What argues against it is that I was up in the attic fixing a rafter last summer and yikes XXXXXX what a work environment... Pärlspont might be something. I had a thought of putting up slightly wider
imported_hans: Hello forum The floor in my old house has a dip due to old water damage and a poorly executed old renovation. This has resulted in the wall being a bit "happy" as the upper floor has also followed down, so to speak. This wall is in line with the roof ridge, and I was thinking of trying to level the floor next summer, but I won't attempt to push up the upper floor as it would be too much work.
sandhall: Scored and snapped the Masterboard without any problems (you have to apply a bit more pressure with the knife when scoring). Jigsaw with a cheap blade was used when a bit more precision was needed.
klaskarlsson: If the floor is already screwed, then there are no problems, but why do you have a 10 mm gap around "so the floor can move"? The floor is still fixed :confused: If the floor is already screwed, it doesn't matter to screw it again... A floating floor can move several centimeters and therefore you should have a movement allowance at the walls so that the pressure against the walls doesn't cause it
evoline: So I drill with 8mm into the concrete for the plug, and then use a 90mm long 5-6mm screw with a washer under the screw head, is that correct??? Thanks
hempularen: In terms of cost, you obviously save a lot with the tarpaulin, it is slightly cheaper per sqm (I think), it can be mounted incredibly quickly, cheap transportation, and general handling. The savings can then, depending on how the builder constructs, be eaten up by costs for temporary stabilization measures.
Jutegården 1: I have done what you are going to do, the difference is that I have timber. My span is 320cm and the beam is an HEA 140 which means it is 140 high and 140 wide. It weighs about 25 kg/m. As hempularen writes, you need a building permit to alter a load-bearing structure and then there must be a drawing done by a structural engineer.
Linus_Arthursson: Received an order for a bathroom... I have an old bathroom in the basement that needs a refresh, including full tiling. The walls are made of hollow bricks, plastered and painted. The plaster holds, but it's not smooth enough for tiling. No visible moisture problems for 52 years, so we won't involve moisture barriers. The bathroom is 3m2 and will only be used sporadically. How to even out the
Mäster: Sometimes you might not feel like cutting the stud one more time because it was 3 mm too long, you can still squeeze it in anyway, (ahem) Darn stud, I've cut it twice, and it's still too short anyway....
Smacker: We are considering an accent wall with horizontal wood paneling. The paneling will also be used on a sloped ceiling in the same room. If you have any nice tips on paneling that suits a slightly more modern house, please feel free to write a few lines. Thank you in advance.
henros: Hello Byggmax has decent prices on doors, including this one for 579 kr http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/Prod/PID-110090.aspx . But if you were looking for a plain door, it seems Byggmax might not be able to help.
mycke_nu: It's a little more complicated than that.. You should not for example mix different groups in the same pipe. If you plan to have several groups, then pull a pipe for each.
styrman1: search on Blocket. there are companies advertising there and maybe they can help you.
Mäster: At work, I use LH, the red can, straight off, at home I usually take a cheaper package, A giraffe is a fantastic tool...
Dr.SiC: We have currently put this solution on hold and are hoping to build onto the entire house instead, as the house has an extension on the left that is not shown in the image above. This way, we avoid the overhang and get the space needed. But if it doesn't work out for some reason, this is our backup plan.
LLLVäxjö: Here is a small image: http://trinity.siteadmin.fi/File.aspx?id=601320&ext=JPG&routing=419671&webid=419703&name=PDM%20mini%20CGI The climbing iron connects the outer sheet with the inner sheet in a concrete sandwich wall. There are certainly more applications, but that is probably the most common.
niblom: It might be enough to cement the loose stones in place, but I thought that it would provide better durability by giving it a bit of finishing. /N
Dublin: It will be a matter of answering YES to all your questions. Check with your KA about what applies and how he intended to follow up to ensure it hasn't become damp in the walls. If he hadn't planned to check that, it might be a good idea to do it yourself.
niblom: I have bought a house with a stable. In the stable, the roof has been in poor condition and the floor above the actual stable is rotten. The beams are partially affected. But how can I simply test if they need to be replaced? The beams are 120mm wide and 160mm high and spaced 1300cc apart. The floor is (was) 28mm tongue and groove. Regards, Niklas
KTH_1965: Anticimex suspected either condensation from the previous construction or that the roof hood is not sealed, allowing rainwater to enter. But the mysterious thing is that it is dry up by the ceiling and wet down at the start of the pipe in the kitchen, which was not visible when the old kitchen was in place. Now the question is whether the fault is hidden or not. I claim that it is a hidden fault,
Sommartorparn: Found a really great description on how to stretch paper roofs. It turned out nice too. http://www.asarp.backas.se/page16/page16.html Think about it! ;) As for sealing gaps in the roof with sealant, I have had bad experiences. The boards move and push out the sealant. I sealed gaps in my beadboard ceiling with some paintable indoor sealant. It looked nice that summer. Now there are ugly bumps
MaZtoR: If you're going to complement something old, it's probably http://www.folkesbygg.se that applies. If it's new, you'll probably have to order glulam.
SnickarNicke: It's definitely a part of the house. But of course, if it doesn't matter what it costs and it's okay to have construction indoors for a while, then just go for it. :D But as I said, I would let it stay.
Jan-L: [citat] Sounds good, remove the plaster joints towards the walls so you make it easier for yourself, much easier to plaster. Also, if your bathroom is on the ground floor of a two-story house, I think you should consider a second layer of gypsum with staggered joints. It should be a smooth ceiling, hopefully without future cracks... then it might be worth screwing two layers. Good luck! :)