Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bele: [quote="Roger Spontare, post: 629370"]Unfortunately, I have really bad experiences with professionals, both craftsmen and engineers. You don't automatically get talent when you study to become a civil engineer, I've noticed. So my attitude now is that if something is going to go wrong, I should have done it myself instead of paying dearly for it. =D Exactly my opinion. It's sad when so-called
Simpsson: Nice to hear! (bought a couple of tubes the other day...) I'm using PL400 and some screws where it fits.
DeeJay: If you mean one made of metal, they are called either tool plate or perforated plate and can be found at cowab.se. Otherwise, maybe you can search for perforated masonite, if that's what you're looking for? //DeeJay
Fasting65: Glad you asked. We just drilled five holes through slate tiles and tried several variants - such as cheap diamond hole saws and concrete hole saws from Jula. It worked so-so... In the end, I managed to get this kind of hole saw: http://katalog.toolstore.se/webspeed/katalog/kat_produkt.p?bid=V15&kat_bid=V15&dokid=5199611&katnr=2&katsektnr=61 It worked great. Sure, the saw broke after four holes,
styrman1: both models exist. It should be quite clear what kind it is.
imported_Byggaren: [quote="hebbe, post: 727105"]My mistake, it should be 3000cm^4 of course. It's Ixx that is used when calculating deflection, and there shouldn't be high shear stresses. Load case: Total load 54000N Deflection: 5*Q*L^3/384EI = 5*54000*4.7^3/384*210*^9*3000*10^-8 = 0.0115m That is about 10mm (
Bele: It's difficult to answer how to best design fastenings without knowing how it looks on site. In principle, it's about achieving mounting surfaces and bolt connections that can handle the load in your construction. So, let someone calculate it if you don't have the knowledge yourself. Construction notification with the municipality usually requires at least a basic sketch of how the solution is
bi4ns: When I put OSB and plasterboard on one side it became unstable, so I wrote my question since I am a beginner. The day after I put OSB and plasterboard on the other side and my concerns were resolved. Thanks anyway for your answers.
AdamL: Planning to install underfloor heating pipes (12mm uponor) and then apply screed on top (on top of EPSCement). Choosing between PCI periplan CF25, maxit 4320, and Kiilto Rot and underfloor heating screed. Can anyone recommend something specific? Maxit seems the cheapest right now. /Adam
bigsnucke: A task made for a router table. If you don't have one, make one! It adds a whole new dimension to routing...
Michailoff: Thanks for the answers! Will get back to you on the matter...
MathiasS: Which deck screw is the best can be debated for a long time. You often get what you pay for. However, that's not always the case. For the past couple of weeks, you can buy Essve's 70mm deck screws (corrosion class C4) for 106 SEK per package of 250 screws at Woody in Huddinge. The price is actually 250 SEK per box, but it seems there was an error in the system. I've bought my 8 boxes and don't
marie10663: I have been in contact with them and this is their response on Nov 4 Hello You can buy these in all stores that purchase building materials. Bauhaus in Malmö and Löddeköpinge have exhibitions. Coop Bygg Burlöv also has it. There are also some builders' merchants in the area that have exhibitions. We expect to get the type approval this week or next, call if you have any more questions.
snubben11: I clung to metal mesh that is attached partly under or on the back of the panel and then attached to the sill around the entire house. Available on a roll. (quite expensive)
mino: aha, great, thanks for the tips! I think a builder should be able to handle this straightforwardly. And we must have a building permit, but since these are relatively simple constructions in the garden, I assume that hand-drawn sketches with dimensions are sufficient, that's usually the case when it comes to patios anyway.
Dr.SiC: Here they talk about frameworks anyway. But the website wasn't exactly an abundance of information. It seems like they only cater to registered users who appear to be truss designers and similar.
Tuffelust: Thank you for your response, unfortunately, I didn't quite find what I was looking for on your link. I agree with you that it shouldn't be placed on the laminate, underneath there's probably concrete - to complicate things even more, I forgot to mention that there's underfloor heating there as well :-(. Is it best to lay thin battens (like joists) and nail into them? Gluing is probably not
ornet: I used montageband couldn't link directly, unfortunately:confused: www.paroc.se/channels/se/building+insulation/products/BI_product_traded.asp?catalog_name=BI_SE&category_name=08.01.%20Fästen&product_id=PAROC+Montageband
carlbanan: I saw in some advertisement some sort of mesh you lay on top of the gutters so the leaves don't get in them....They should be pretty easy to make yourself...Might be an option.
husrenovering: I am planning to demolish an interior wall. The wall is not a load-bearing wall for the house itself, but it might be for the ceiling (I think). The house originally had a ceiling height of 4.5 meters but it was lowered to 2.2 m several years ago. The wall I want to demolish supports that ceiling. The ceiling is built on joists that span from outer wall to outer wall, and then there is paneling
Stringfellow Hawke: [citat] I feel I have to respond to you since you have many serious errors in the text. You write: RF outside, which is usually lower than our RF indoors Oh really? I have an RF of 96% outside right now and 40% indoors. You are talking about vapor content, which is always higher indoors due to added moisture. The relative humidity, however, varies. Outside it is high in winter and low in summer,
A.J.: Measured a bit and concluded that there is a cold space above the floor right where the plastic is located. The house has a sloping roof and the upper floor is a bit narrower than the lower floor.
sccarber: Bauhaus (25x158) and Byggmax (25x165) have pine flooring for 169 SEK/sqm and 179 SEK/sqm respectively, that's not very expensive, is it?
sccarber: As long as you don't use a moisture barrier behind the tiles, any potential moisture from outside shouldn't be a problem, right? It could then "breathe" through the grout? If you have a moisture barrier, there's otherwise a risk that moisture accumulates behind it, which could cause it to detach and the tiles to "bulge out." http://www.bkr.se/branschregler/branschregler2007.pdf (see page 7) To
FredrikR: You see correctly, the cover battens are cut and go up against the horizontal white, and continue above it on the upper floor. ;) The question is when/if you need to splice the paneling, on the gables for example, if a nailing batten under the white is enough? And if I just go with cc60 until I hit the eaves, I'm wondering if it's enough to have, say, a nailing batten in the middle at 40cm, to
Milkshaken: First and foremost, if you are going to use traditional frame screws (14 mm), drill through the frame, as it's usually only halfway drilled. Buy a proper frame key, (T model, and also buy a socket, that's the one used to drive in the entire screw). Put the socket in a strong screwdriver or drill, and then drive them in so far that you see the rounding on the 14 mm screw. Then use the T-key to
Tryggis: Hello, back in this forum after 2 years. Does anyone know a supplier in the Stockholm area who can manufacture a prefab concrete staircase according to drawings? We have just torn out a solid and massive one that was cast in place sometime in the 40s, and the whole behemoth weighed almost 5 tons. We want something structurally similar, preferably not as heavy, of course, the other was almost cast
Marlen Eskilsson: I don't think this discussion is going anywhere and I'm closing the thread.