Building Materials and Construction Technology
SnickarNicke: [citat] Exactly, look at how the OSB board looks on the edge, completely useless for screwing in. [bild] But of course, you can still build boxes. I assume you already have "leftover" OSB boards you were planning to make boxes from. - Since it's not great to screw into the edge of an OSB board, you can place a triangular strip in the inner corners which you then screw the walls into (from the
fridhem: Hello again. Thanks for the quick responses :). Then it's just a matter of going ahead, and like I said, there will probably be an extra screw with accessories in addition to Ikea's assembly instructions. Thanks and goodbye. :D
carlbanan: I also made my own staircase... A simple one with white-painted stringers and steps made of glued laminated wood... That's about as far as I've gotten so far... But the plan is to stain and lacquer the steps, and to close the gaps between them with mdf. It's cheap anyway, and I don't think it will look too bad when it's completely finished either... But it's pretty tricky to calculate the step
Jagger: [bild] Easier to understand my problem if I include a picture perhaps. The water goes in when it becomes high tide, under the boathouse, and in winter it lifts up the loose floor. If it had been concrete there, the water wouldn't come in, which it does if there's a concrete dock there. Or/and if you use piles. Regards J
Raukas: Here's how it turned out! :) Will add a fence, mailbox (black).
Bloink: You should be able to glue the tiles with a "gentle adhesive." Or as you suggest, be sparing with the fix. Apply a dab on each tile and press it in place. I have an acquaintance who was dissatisfied with the tiles in his rental apartment. He tiled and grouted everything on a 3mm masonite board, which he then attached over the existing tiles. When he moved out, he took the board down again.
Mäster: If you ever feel at a loose end, you are welcome to post or PM a sketch of how I should have arranged it, I'm getting stuck in the text, probably because I have a preconceived opinion that "locks me up." I know EVERYTHING...:rolleyes: But I'm trying to learn something when the opportunity arises...
MathiasS: [citat] It's not just that. This is also a person who spends a lot of time looking for their expensive and easily misplaced luxury bits set (according to empirical tests on another part of the forum).
imported_Byggaren: It is not the easiest to create arches in an existing brick wall, but it is possible with some care. Start by marking which bricks will be affected. The focus is on the top hole but also the width since it concerns the support for the beam if you do not plan to create an arch that through its height can withstand pressure from above, which is converted into lateral pressure. And first of all,
imported_Byggaren: Do not make the same mistake as the restoration workers did with the Visby city wall. They used cement-based plaster for pointing the wall made of limestone. Everything deteriorated, and they were then forced to remove the cement plaster and re-point with lime mortar. If you have lime mortar, you should not use cement plaster. If you have cement plaster, you can use lime plaster, but it is not
Algen: Well, it didn't sound very hopeful when I called. Usually, they have 20% off everything every fall, but that's already been this year. Otherwise, I like kakelspecialisten and have shopped quite a bit there, but I got the impression that this clearance sale was mostly to get rid of shelf-warmers.
siggi: Is there anyone who can share experiences regarding extensions? I am going to extend the cabin along one long side. It will be two rooms measuring 7x3 meters, with a pier foundation and lean-to roof. I would be very happy if someone had a similar drawing, which I can adapt my measurements to. The only drawings I've seen with lean-to roofs are of porches and sheds. I would like something more
SnickarNicke: [citat] Maybe not the right place for your post, but try with a little water in a regular spray bottle. They usually come off then.
injonil: [citat] :) Here is a picture of a roof truss lower chord, the follower, and the support leg. Not easy to access and see well there, as it's insulated both on the wall and in the floor... I will also check with Bjerking about this.
Västerhaninge 17: I hoisted the stairs at both ends again by half a meter, then cut with the circular saw. Turned out fairly straight/nice I guess. The stair manufacturer probably would have said, send the stairs back and we'll fix the right height:rolleyes:
Larsa: There are special tools for this. Ikea actually has one for a cheap price [bild]
ejwbegysv: Thanks for all the answers.. Talked to "my" carpenter today and he thought I should go with plastic
goahead1978: I have some thoughts as I have a rather tight budget in a construction project. I'm going back and forth regarding the thickness of the studs since they don't really have a major structure to support. I'm building an apartment in an existing building where the outer shell is from earlier with timber logs and paneling. The structure I'm building is more or less freestanding with an air gap against
morsan: [citat] Then I don't understand why you're sitting and inserting the same text into 3 and 4-year-old threads. You're getting a warning of 50 points for advertising! Read your PM morsan/moderator
bergstrollet: Okay, that seems to be the most sensible. There aren't that many panelbädor, and it's more important for it to look nice than for it to go quickly.
Mäster: Angle grinder? Reciprocating saw? Or rather, pull them out completely...
buzzador: Yes, it's strange how one can complicate things sometimes and make things harder than they are. It went perfectly well after that little simple and good explanation, nice and perfect corners were achieved. Thank you so much for your response styrman1! //buzzador
PappasHammare: I was just looking for an instruction and found this thread so I thought the next person who's searching will find this link instead http://epi.byggmax.com/Documents/Produktspec/20/Fantompannan.pdf
Swetrot: Yes, that can naturally be a reason for it starting to move. The question still remains, however, what it is in the construction that has been damaged so that it moves.
barfotalasse: I have to thank you for the help. These walls are like real safes. It's probably important to minimize the drilling or to make sure you can place the holes in the joints.
Jana: [citat] You have to lift it when changing the floor, but how is dirt supposed to get under? You should seal around with silicone so that water isn't absorbed underneath when washing the floor, and then it is also sealed against dirt. We have a glass panel and are completely satisfied with it. I would never change it for anything else.
pinebar: You won't be first..... http://www.epochtimes.se/articles/2008/08/29/15652.html http://www.expressen.se/levabo/1.1253962/up-och-ner-vanda-varlden
jakbse: I was thinking of putting up fabric on the ceiling in the kitchen this weekend. Do you think I can manage it myself? The kids and wife are away, so it's the perfect opportunity to tackle the kitchen, but the question is if it's too cumbersome to do alone? I've put fabric on walls and slanted ceilings before without any issues, but now it's a regular ceiling at 245.
Mats: This is not a technology question but rather belongs in construction technology, so I'm moving it.