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Västerhaninge 17: The pressure-treated timber I saw at Bauhus 45*170 was classified as K24, according to the staff:confused: Isn't K24 usually marked with that, those are the beams in my house. I need to attach the first main beam to the house
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jon
jon: You najjar the hose to the reinforcement mesh and then spackle it all in.
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blackadder
blackadder: If the wall were straight, I would probably glue the board. Otherwise, I would have framed it with fairly thin studs to straighten the wall.
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ptlf: Became a narrow hålkäl...
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tallmilan
tallmilan: We'll probably have to look for a more confusing thread ... :-)
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PappasHammare: If there is indeed a real mountain behind the wall, there won't be much pressure. What is done when building higher walls is placing a reinforcement grid at certain tiers in the wall. This grid extends inward towards the mass behind. Benders Megastone/Megawall easily handles 1.4 meters. However, don't forget that you must have drainage material behind and a drainpipe at the bottom. Edit: Thought
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Flyttad
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Flyttad
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ason: thanks, it might be an option, if one bends a list/quarter-round like that, do you think it retains its angles after bending it? feels like it doesn't, for example, become 90 degrees up on the quarter-round. but worth making an attempt...
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anaitis: [citat] I have looked at Blocket now too: The beams visible there are welded plate beams. Without having exact measurements of the cross-section, it's not possible to say if they are strong enough. You should be able to get data from the company selling them.
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anaitis: [citat] Thank you, now I get it! It was the last variant I wasn't familiar with!
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Bödde
Bödde: Hello! I had exactly the same "problem" and therefore contacted our chimney sweep. According to him, there were no issues as long as there was an air gap between the chimney and flammable material - and you also have plasterboard in between, so it should be okay. However, there are lots of regulations regarding this, so contact the chimney sweep - as Totte_s suggests.
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Totte_S
Totte_S: Fun that you're hanging on pirk ;) Yes, it would have been convenient with underfloor heating and casting a slab. The trick is that we have a basement entrance in the corner, so in addition to walls and foundation, we need to relocate the basement entrance, so there's a bit to consider. We also avoid casting because we might, later, remodel the bathroom/laundry room in the existing house, and
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ktm250: A cut with a disc that takes concrete to divide. You simply have to shape the corners.
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Immobil
Immobil: Torx 5.0x70 or 5.0x90 is what I usually use. :cool:
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styrman1: T-0 corresponds to what was called K12 and later T12. T-0 is not stamped but there should be a certificate indicating that the timber meets that strength class.
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verktygsgurun: You can nail if you can see the joints, then you can use steel nails, although it might not look very nice. Cut nails are used in lightweight concrete/leca/siporex, they are nails that are like a wedge, but I'm unsure if you can succeed in nailing with them in the mortar. I would have used nail plugs, they come in white if it's a white trim that needs to be put up. In the stairwell, depending on
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frjo7205: [citat] If the building structure and floor plan allow it, one could consider planning for, and applying for a building permit for, an added elevator shaft. You make openings in the outer wall and ensure there is enough space inside to get in and out of the elevator. The idea itself is probably correct. You have both a higher proportion of elderly in the population, increased accessibility
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Totte_S
Totte_S: In my opinion, it sounds likely that you can take advantage of the deduction. As long as you have a building on the property that has a tax year, and it's for the renovation or extension of that building you are applying for a building permit, it would be strange if you couldn't get the deduction for it. Once you've done what you describe, you will likely have exceeded the maximum deduction of
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evoline: Take this to the minhembio.com forum and you'll get lots of tips and ideas. Then check out other people's galleries to see how they've done it :)
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Hobber: Very good info you linked to. Thanks! /Hobber
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Tobiaz: Hello, I have just moved into an apartment that was built in the early 30s, and I want to open up towards my kitchen/kitchenette to achieve a better layout in the kitchen. The wall is approximately 13 cm thick and constructed with plaster, a bit of reed, wooden planks, empty space, wooden planks, a bit of reed, plaster. I am not planning to remove the entire wall, just a small part of it, and
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JPW: It is said to be possible to kill them by changing the climate a bit abruptly: Wait until summer when they are actively gnawing and not hibernated, then put the wood in the freezer for a while. It might be a myth, but it should work.
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Linnex: [citat] You probably confuse ridge and roof. The rule says 1 meter above the roof. However, at least OVER the ridge.
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tompa_70: I am going to attach a support beam to a canopy on an outer wall that consists of facade brick. Inside the facade brick, there is 45 mm insulation, then old reinforced plaster, and then a solid plank frame. How do I attach the support beam? The support beam will be about 5 meters.
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GöranKe
GöranKe: The brad should work excellently. Another option is of course to do it the old way - i.e. to nail hand-forged nails into the lids. This variant is expensive but very nice. If the roof is going to be painted, it might still be fine with brad nails as they disappear when you paint over them.
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Immobil
Immobil: Formplyfa should work. Don't forget to paint the cut edges.
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nimhed
nimhed: I have just laid floor joists 4.5 m out. I have laid 190mm c/c 400, Shortlat every meter or so. Then I have laid 2''3 crossed on top. It feels extremely rigid.
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mats401
mats401: yes I have checked with them they don’t have any
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Dzollero: You clamp the studs together with a fixer plier, or with small clamps. If you're going to have a door, you recess a batten into the stud so that you can fix the frame. You make the transom from a floor/ceiling profile where you cut out a flange on both ends and clamp it at the correct height. Most studs have a triangle, it should face upwards :)
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