I am going to build a couple of new exterior walls in a corner of the house, see this forum thread for images and some other considerations.
Today, the supporting structure consists of a glulam beam supported by two glulam columns 115*115 about 4m long. I will keep the glulam beam (115*315, I think), but after considerations in the other thread, I am now considering replacing the columns with a traditional stud frame.
I realize that, based on experience, there won't be any major problems with load-bearing capacity if done "correctly" with the right wood, but for the sake of my curiosity, I want to know when I have achieved at least the same load-bearing capacity as today. Additionally, I need to find out what "correct wood" is.
I am unlikely to use 120 mm studs, but rather 145 or 170 to allow for reasonable insulation, and in an appropriate classification, but it's fun to know if I am on the right track or way off.
Suggestions for dimensions and classification of the studs?
According to tables on traguiden.se, my 2 columns can withstand a centric compressive force of 46kN at a 4m length, each.
According to the equivalent table for columns/braces, a wall stud C14 45*120 can handle about 10kN.
Depending on the solution chosen, basically, 3 studs will be placed in the corner, each handling about 10kN, together with an additional 7-8 studs at 10 kN each, providing a total load-bearing capacity of approximately 100 kN.
According to my simple calculations, the load-bearing capacity with some interaction between the studs in the corner should be more than sufficient, despite the small dimensions in a low class.
Am I thinking correctly so far? If so, anything better than 45*120 C14 should work.
How do I handle the top of the new studs, notch for the beam (seems most logical) or nail a new top plate to the bottom of the glulam beam (seems like an unnecessarily complicated solution)?
Another question in this context concerns the floor structure of the same construction, one support will be on a new foundation wall in line with the columns, but against the existing house structure, there are different options.
One variant is that you can remove some exterior cladding and use the existing foundation wall, currently an exterior wall, as support.
But if due to level differences or other issues it doesn't work, what's the smartest way to do it then, bolt a support beam to the outside of the existing foundation wall and joist hangers? Feels somewhat suboptimal, moisture problems between the leca and the support beam maybe?
Pillars with a support beam in the new crawl space or building up another foundation wall flush with the old one is not possible due to the presence of a basement staircase that must be considered.
Another solution?
As usual, we thank you in advance for your interest and all the wise and silly suggestions
Today, the supporting structure consists of a glulam beam supported by two glulam columns 115*115 about 4m long. I will keep the glulam beam (115*315, I think), but after considerations in the other thread, I am now considering replacing the columns with a traditional stud frame.
I realize that, based on experience, there won't be any major problems with load-bearing capacity if done "correctly" with the right wood, but for the sake of my curiosity, I want to know when I have achieved at least the same load-bearing capacity as today. Additionally, I need to find out what "correct wood" is.
I am unlikely to use 120 mm studs, but rather 145 or 170 to allow for reasonable insulation, and in an appropriate classification, but it's fun to know if I am on the right track or way off.
Suggestions for dimensions and classification of the studs?
According to tables on traguiden.se, my 2 columns can withstand a centric compressive force of 46kN at a 4m length, each.
According to the equivalent table for columns/braces, a wall stud C14 45*120 can handle about 10kN.
Depending on the solution chosen, basically, 3 studs will be placed in the corner, each handling about 10kN, together with an additional 7-8 studs at 10 kN each, providing a total load-bearing capacity of approximately 100 kN.
According to my simple calculations, the load-bearing capacity with some interaction between the studs in the corner should be more than sufficient, despite the small dimensions in a low class.
Am I thinking correctly so far? If so, anything better than 45*120 C14 should work.
How do I handle the top of the new studs, notch for the beam (seems most logical) or nail a new top plate to the bottom of the glulam beam (seems like an unnecessarily complicated solution)?
Another question in this context concerns the floor structure of the same construction, one support will be on a new foundation wall in line with the columns, but against the existing house structure, there are different options.
One variant is that you can remove some exterior cladding and use the existing foundation wall, currently an exterior wall, as support.
But if due to level differences or other issues it doesn't work, what's the smartest way to do it then, bolt a support beam to the outside of the existing foundation wall and joist hangers? Feels somewhat suboptimal, moisture problems between the leca and the support beam maybe?
Pillars with a support beam in the new crawl space or building up another foundation wall flush with the old one is not possible due to the presence of a basement staircase that must be considered.
Another solution?
As usual, we thank you in advance for your interest and all the wise and silly suggestions
Hi Totte, I can't get your threads out of my mind! It's an interesting project you're planning. First, I think the pressure you have on the limbalken isn't that significant when the trusses also rest on the outer wall. Then I wonder, since you're planning a larger hall, perhaps underfloor heating is of interest, and if so, maybe you should cast, mortar a rim beam, fill the space with dry materials (schingel), insulate with 300 mm polystyrene foam, reinforce, and install water-based underfloor heating instead of a floor frame.
Fun that you're hanging on pirk
Yes, it would have been convenient with underfloor heating and casting a slab. The trick is that we have a basement entrance in the corner, so in addition to walls and foundation, we need to relocate the basement entrance, so there's a bit to consider.
We also avoid casting because we might, later, remodel the bathroom/laundry room in the existing house, and then it's convenient to crawl in the foundation and reroute the plumbing.
Additionally, it would be troublesome with waterborne underfloor heating, as we have direct-acting electricity, so it would be an investment close to half a million before we're done, and the hall should not be that expensive.
Yes, it would have been convenient with underfloor heating and casting a slab. The trick is that we have a basement entrance in the corner, so in addition to walls and foundation, we need to relocate the basement entrance, so there's a bit to consider.
We also avoid casting because we might, later, remodel the bathroom/laundry room in the existing house, and then it's convenient to crawl in the foundation and reroute the plumbing.
Additionally, it would be troublesome with waterborne underfloor heating, as we have direct-acting electricity, so it would be an investment close to half a million before we're done, and the hall should not be that expensive.