We are going to lay tiles in the hall and need to tear up the floor that is there now.
At the bottom is a cast foundation, on top of that are joists. We don't know how close together they are, but not close enough since the floor wobbles a bit as it is now. On the joists, there is rough tongue and groove boards and on top of that a 5 mm masonite board.
We plan to tear up everything and redo the joists and insulation. But what should the center-to-center distance be between the joists to make it right? We plan to lay chipboard flooring, water-based underfloor heating on top, and then level before laying the tiles.
And we also wonder what insulation you recommend using?
At the bottom is a cast foundation, on top of that are joists. We don't know how close together they are, but not close enough since the floor wobbles a bit as it is now. On the joists, there is rough tongue and groove boards and on top of that a 5 mm masonite board.
We plan to tear up everything and redo the joists and insulation. But what should the center-to-center distance be between the joists to make it right? We plan to lay chipboard flooring, water-based underfloor heating on top, and then level before laying the tiles.
And we also wonder what insulation you recommend using?
Why not just tear everything down to the concrete slab, add a Platon and a suitably thick sheet of EPS/foam and then a pre-grooved EPS board for underfloor heating + aluminum baffle with heating pipes, followed by adhesive for tiles + tiles?
Then you get both the heat directed upwards towards the floor and a solid foundation that won't sway, provided you choose EPS with high compressive strength. Additionally, there is no mold risk in that construction, as none of the materials used are hygroscopic and moisture transport from below the concrete slab is stopped by the Platon mat.
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Byggaren
Then you get both the heat directed upwards towards the floor and a solid foundation that won't sway, provided you choose EPS with high compressive strength. Additionally, there is no mold risk in that construction, as none of the materials used are hygroscopic and moisture transport from below the concrete slab is stopped by the Platon mat.
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Byggaren
cc 30 is usually what is used. Maybe you'll get too low a floor level without joists? If you put up joists again, remember the moisture risk. If it is a base plate, it is the nonsense they were doing in the 70s that has caused major problems in many houses. A mat like the one described above should be at the bottom in any case.
pitufina said:
If you go to a hardware store (Bauhaus, Byggmax, K-Rauta, etc.), they can surely help you if you give them the description of what you are going to do. It's even better if you have a good timber dealer nearby who works with the construction industry. They know exactly what's needed.
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Byggaren
Now we have figured out what to do!
We tear everything down to the foundation, cast most of it with eps-concrete and use self-leveling compound to embed the underfloor heating.
Does anyone know if you can lay the underfloor heating coil directly on the eps or if you need to self-level a layer first?
We tear everything down to the foundation, cast most of it with eps-concrete and use self-leveling compound to embed the underfloor heating.
Does anyone know if you can lay the underfloor heating coil directly on the eps or if you need to self-level a layer first?
