I have a problem that I wonder if there's a solution for.
I'm in the process of building a sturdy swing set for my children, and after priming with linseed oil/linseed oil paint/turpentine (50% 35% 15% according to Ottosson's recipe), I assembled the whole thing only to find that the sturdy structure wasn't so sturdy
... well, maybe it's not that bad, but I want it to be even more "rigid."
The crossbeam of the structure has a T cross-section that I built with two glued and tenoned 145 beams. It became really stable. I used single 145s for the legs, and they turned out a bit wobbly. Now I also want to make the legs with the same shape as the crossbeam, but with a somewhat thinner 145-95 combo.
The problem is, how can I get any glue to stick when the legs are oiled?
I used polyurethane glue for the crossbeam.
How deeply does linseed oil penetrate into the timber? Can you "degrease" with alcohol or turpentine?
... or do I have to bite the bullet and let the linseed oil oxidize, which will surely take forever?
Grateful for any help
I'm in the process of building a sturdy swing set for my children, and after priming with linseed oil/linseed oil paint/turpentine (50% 35% 15% according to Ottosson's recipe), I assembled the whole thing only to find that the sturdy structure wasn't so sturdy
... well, maybe it's not that bad, but I want it to be even more "rigid."
The crossbeam of the structure has a T cross-section that I built with two glued and tenoned 145 beams. It became really stable. I used single 145s for the legs, and they turned out a bit wobbly. Now I also want to make the legs with the same shape as the crossbeam, but with a somewhat thinner 145-95 combo.
The problem is, how can I get any glue to stick when the legs are oiled?
I used polyurethane glue for the crossbeam.
How deeply does linseed oil penetrate into the timber? Can you "degrease" with alcohol or turpentine?
... or do I have to bite the bullet and let the linseed oil oxidize, which will surely take forever?
Grateful for any help
It might work with PU glue if you degrease with acetone.
But if you just want to remove the wobble, I think it's enough if you screw on the reinforcement. Screws c/c 500 should be sufficient.
Built a similar frame for my kids 15 years ago using the same method!
But if you just want to remove the wobble, I think it's enough if you screw on the reinforcement. Screws c/c 500 should be sufficient.
Built a similar frame for my kids 15 years ago using the same method!
T-röd usually removes much of the greasy surface.
Thank you for your answers.
I started the day before yesterday and was going to cut down the 145 studs. Unfortunately, I only had a crappy circular saw at hand, on which the fence suddenly came loose, resulting in an awfully crooked cut
So one of the pairs of legs went down the drain and I might as well redo the other one too.
Oh well, all in all, it means buying some more timber.
When I looked/felt the surface of the cut, it didn't seem too thick, in fact, I couldn't see any penetration at all... so it probably would have worked with some acetone/alcohol as you said.
Regarding screwing, that would have worked fine too, I just have a perverse inclination for nice glued constructions without screws
I started the day before yesterday and was going to cut down the 145 studs. Unfortunately, I only had a crappy circular saw at hand, on which the fence suddenly came loose, resulting in an awfully crooked cut
So one of the pairs of legs went down the drain and I might as well redo the other one too.
Oh well, all in all, it means buying some more timber.
When I looked/felt the surface of the cut, it didn't seem too thick, in fact, I couldn't see any penetration at all... so it probably would have worked with some acetone/alcohol as you said.
Regarding screwing, that would have worked fine too, I just have a perverse inclination for nice glued constructions without screws