Building Materials and Construction Technology
imported_Byggaren: Suggest using untreated heartwood for the posts instead of pressure-treated wood. In that case, burn the tip with a propane torch until it's black-brown but not charred (just lightly char the surface). Then coat the tip with pine tar to a good bit above ground level once it's installed. You can treat the top with 'Roslagsmahogny', as well as the rest of your fence (untreated wood). It requires a
Fredrik.engdahl: I worked at Stanly plåt in Malmö which is building Sweden's first Passive Multi-family house in the western harbor. They use steel/metal beams and walls made of metal studs. They also use Foamglas as outer insulation and it's quite a new material. You can read more about it here http://sydsvenskan.se/bostad/article197193/Unikt-lagenergihus-i-plat-byggs-i-Malmo.html
d_nilsson: Hello, I used a facade board when insulating the base of the house, "Cem-In-Wood". It should work for your application as well? http://www.promonord.com/html/ceminwood.html This board is a bit cheaper than Minerit, for example.
Rigor: As long as the old bruk isn't brittle and crumbling, it can be dampened a little and continued...
kroken78: Hello, I was wondering if anyone knowledgeable could advise on how best to make stairs from 2 felled pine trees on a slope. Is this a bad idea or worth trying? Can the stairs be made stable, or should I go for a "store-bought" solution? The ground is mostly sand so the frost isn't too hard... Any advice is welcome! :D
d_nilsson: anaitis, Good point, I didn't think of that... I imagined that the beam only had two supports, but of course, that's not necessarily the case.
klimpfan: Okay, thanks for the answers, I have been in contact with a designer but nothing is happening at all, I've been waiting for 2 months and it's starting to be time for this step now... Anyone who can recommend a designer who can handle this?
ober: Hello! Planning to build a garage next to the house and the idea is to lay tiles on top and use it as a terrace. The garage will be built with lecablock. Does anyone have experience with this from before and what suppliers of floor beams are available? The dimensions of the garage are 6.00m * 7.50m. /Matte
frhe: Noise barrier might be an option? They usually work very well and are often funded by the road authority.
d_nilsson: I calculated this before I broke up in the bathroom, the following applies if I'm not completely off... Transferred power (W) = (Lambda value / thickness) * dT * A Lambda for styrofoam is about 0.035 W/mK Now you have to make some assumptions about the temperature of the slab and the warm floors. I assume the floor is 25C and the concrete slab is 5C. That gives a dT of 20C. Calculated per m^2 for
d_nilsson: Hi, The solution proposed is the one that mirakelasta has used, so it is at least documented that it works in some cases. I tried this myself on a house I owned in the USA for a short time but didn't live there long enough to evaluate it. It's so difficult to advise, though, when you don't know how damp your floor is and what air exchange you can expect to get. Therefore, my continued advice is
pg79an: Hey. I'm a bit curious to see pictures of the result and cost?
twoedge: Hello everyone, I might need some good advice now. My problem is as follows, and here comes the story first. When my father insulated what became the TV room, he put up studs on three of the four walls. The only one he didn't do was the load-bearing wall that went through the middle of the house. The other walls ended up being studs, insulation, vapor barrier, and particle board. However, the
Nybyggarn: Can't imagine that reinforcement is needed.
nino: Hello I cut down some pines where the summer cottage is going to be, and I have a straight nice pine that I cut at about 9m which I planned to use as a ridge beam in the cottage later. How should I dry it? Should I debark it now while it's fresh? A friend also mentioned that I should saw a longitudinal groove all the way to create a crack indication. How important is it that it lies completely
Gabbe1: I don't know why these grooves are made, but as I see it, there are only advantages whether the surface is to be painted or covered with paper. Thank you for the answers!
andersmc: I have some (quite limited) experience, after having installed a sliding door. But it’s not so remarkable. It involves more mechanics than a regular door, and you need to plan the construction a bit more carefully. Now I only had drywall, but it didn't feel especially hollow, unless you stood and knocked exactly where there was a missing stud. If you use OSB+drywall, the weakening is probably
apotekarnes: Do you have any drawing of the house showing the direction of the rafters as well as the placement of the interior wall? If the interior wall is across the rafters, it could be load-bearing but doesn't have to be. It depends on the span of the rafters and their dimensions. The better you can describe your house, the more help you can get here on the forum.
Farzan: Sure, the support beams run vertically between the ceiling joists of the attic and the top chord (the sloping part) of the roof truss. They are part of the roof truss and thus load-bearing. They can look slightly different - in our case, each support beam consists of two very thick planks nailed on either side of the beam and the top chord, but our house is probably a bit newer than yours. The
BlombergM: Thank you so much, Hmm, it sounds like a span of 2.40 between support beam 1 and 2, and 2.20 between the pillars for these is a bit too much for 45x145? And even though I have it tighter to support beam 3 and between the pillars for this one, right? /Magnus
Mikael_L: Cut a bevel with a utility knife. Check page 11 in this: http://www.norgips.se/file?dnl=SE%2Fservice%2Fmontage%2F6_2_Spackling_av_gipsskivor_2001.pdf
tank77: Easier to handle 20-liter buckets, you'll still have time!
MaZtoR: An image would make it easier to provide a good answer. But spontaneously, I would say remove the paneling and screw on new plasterboard.
mandg: I can point out that I have now removed the wall and the house and the upper floor are still standing.... Clay brick wall was no problem, took about 10 minutes with a sledgehammer...the stones were very soft...
akhagen: Approaching project start with big strides. I have talked to my lumber yard and they will look for factory-painted masonite. And then there is the issue of glue. Recommendation? Best regards / Dan Å
FiaG: Is there anyone who can recommend where to find retailers of staircase facades, loose "steps" that you lay over an existing indoor staircase? I'm looking for walnut but mostly find oak and beech.