On a summer cottage wall, we need to replace the old cracked fjällpanel. The wall faces northeast and is about 75 m from the sea. The cottage was built in the 1940s, stands on rock, and is only used in the summer. The insulation initially consisted of sawdust and was later improved with polystyrene beads shoveled into the wall from the attic. We will now clear the wall of all old insulation and paneling (except the top three rows of paneling under the eaves, which look healthy). The cottage was originally on pillars. Later, a concrete foundation was made in the wall thickness between the pillars.
On the vertical facade nail rows, it seems that the wall studs are not evenly distributed; that is, not just 60 cm apart.
The fjällpanel has been purchased and mitered at the ends that will become corners. Hot-dip galvanized wire nails, mineral wool boards, and windproof paper have been purchased.
On the wall, which is approximately 7m long and 2.7 m high, there is a window.
But then? What do you do when the old insulation, paneling, and window casings are removed?
1. I have seen from the old nail rows that there must be a wall stud to the right of the window. To the left of it, there is likely a window frame, perhaps with a gap between with blocks in it? How do I handle insulation and windproof paper at the window; up to the stud? and up to the frame?
2. What is the easiest and best way to cut the insulation?
3. How much overlap should you have on the windproof paper, which is laid horizontally from the bottom up the wall?
4. How is the fjällpanel installed? Do you start at the bottom; closest to the foundation and continue upwards?
5. Should anything special be done with insulation on the top of the foundation and level with the inner floor?
6. How high should the insulation be laid? Where the paneling under the eaves starts? Or does it have something to do with the construction of the attic?
/Wondering Teba
On the vertical facade nail rows, it seems that the wall studs are not evenly distributed; that is, not just 60 cm apart.
The fjällpanel has been purchased and mitered at the ends that will become corners. Hot-dip galvanized wire nails, mineral wool boards, and windproof paper have been purchased.
On the wall, which is approximately 7m long and 2.7 m high, there is a window.
But then? What do you do when the old insulation, paneling, and window casings are removed?
1. I have seen from the old nail rows that there must be a wall stud to the right of the window. To the left of it, there is likely a window frame, perhaps with a gap between with blocks in it? How do I handle insulation and windproof paper at the window; up to the stud? and up to the frame?
2. What is the easiest and best way to cut the insulation?
3. How much overlap should you have on the windproof paper, which is laid horizontally from the bottom up the wall?
4. How is the fjällpanel installed? Do you start at the bottom; closest to the foundation and continue upwards?
5. Should anything special be done with insulation on the top of the foundation and level with the inner floor?
6. How high should the insulation be laid? Where the paneling under the eaves starts? Or does it have something to do with the construction of the attic?
/Wondering Teba
Oh, so many questions. I'll try to answer a few.
1. Cut narrow pieces of insulation to "dreva" around the windows for a tight fit.
Then:
The windpaper should always be placed underneath and overlapped under a thin batten, e.g., 22x45. It is also intended to extend the life of the cladding by providing an air gap behind the panel. You should nail the battens on top of the windpaper. But the gap behind the panel should be covered at the bottom with a thin insect net.
2. You can use an ordinary household knife. But make sure to have a sharpening stone nearby so you can keep the knife sharp. Cutting insulation is easy if you have a sharp knife. Otherwise, there are special knives available at the building store. A straight plank is also useful when cutting. Cut the insulation ½ to 1 cm wider than the space.
3. Overlap under the battens as I described above. Vertical or horizontal doesn't matter, as long as you overlap on a stud with the battens on top.
4. From the bottom. Nail with one nail on each stud where the cladding is thickest.
5. ?
6. It depends on the roof's construction. If the attic is ventilated through gables, you can place the panel all the way up. Otherwise, make sure to leave a small air gap at the top. Also, place a strip of insect net here.
Additional tips:
Brush the ends of the cladding with diluted paint or primer before mounting to prevent cracking in the future. Especially on the beveled corners.
1. Cut narrow pieces of insulation to "dreva" around the windows for a tight fit.
Then:
The windpaper should always be placed underneath and overlapped under a thin batten, e.g., 22x45. It is also intended to extend the life of the cladding by providing an air gap behind the panel. You should nail the battens on top of the windpaper. But the gap behind the panel should be covered at the bottom with a thin insect net.
2. You can use an ordinary household knife. But make sure to have a sharpening stone nearby so you can keep the knife sharp. Cutting insulation is easy if you have a sharp knife. Otherwise, there are special knives available at the building store. A straight plank is also useful when cutting. Cut the insulation ½ to 1 cm wider than the space.
3. Overlap under the battens as I described above. Vertical or horizontal doesn't matter, as long as you overlap on a stud with the battens on top.
4. From the bottom. Nail with one nail on each stud where the cladding is thickest.
5. ?
6. It depends on the roof's construction. If the attic is ventilated through gables, you can place the panel all the way up. Otherwise, make sure to leave a small air gap at the top. Also, place a strip of insect net here.
Additional tips:
Brush the ends of the cladding with diluted paint or primer before mounting to prevent cracking in the future. Especially on the beveled corners.