Building Materials and Construction Technology
frenchie: http://www.smarthem.se/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=inspektionslucka&search_in_description=1
Mats: You can do that anyway. Then the loft will end up sort of next to the bed. In this way, the bed will also seem lower as a part of it is then hidden by the loft.
yens: It sounds roughly like I had planned and it was nice to get that confirmed. I will build the gable ends 170, and therefore I thought to use 170 also in the "bonus wall". Then it will probably be 170, that seems smart... Because when I later get a new gable end to insulate, I "move" my temporary wall...
larsu: Hi! Time for the next project :). I'm going to cast a retaining wall in concrete and to make it look nice, I was thinking of using foam with decor resembling brick. This decor can be found on bridges, etc. But I can't find any supplier of this. I would be very grateful if someone on the forum could give tips and info on where to buy this type of foam. Thanks in advance Best regards/Larsu
Bnicke: Mikael_L, by "spackelpump" I meant what seems to be called a brukspump. A machine that mixes and pumps out self-leveling compound automatically. You cut open the bags and throw them in, and the compound is shaken down and mixed with water. I thought it might be worth the money to rent one of these instead of having an army of people and buckets standing with mixers :)
hempularen: No, in our case they support an intermediate joist. That part of the house is an extension from the 70s measuring 5x8m (the rest of the house is from the 30s). We built an additional floor on the extension. For various reasons, the beams had to run in the 8m direction, and there was no central wall that could support (there is one, but it stands about 1m next to a steel beam in the basement). We
niblom: Drill until you find the brick (it will probably never hold well in the plaster). Insert the plug so the ENTIRE plug is in the brick. Use long screws so the screw goes through the entire plug. Then it will probably hold.
Mats: I would make a small frame around the pillar so that it can remain as it is with a little space around it.
JOS81: A 90 x 270 is mounted... Hmm... One should have had a meter of snow on the roof now so it "settled" properly. I braced the trusses so they bowed with 8 props. Then I sawed off the support legs at a "slightly too high level". Hammered them in and lowered the trusses again. The support legs naturally rest on the masonry basement wall below. Is there any risk that something could happen now?
FredrikR: [citat] Why is this the case actually? Byproduct from other manufacturing or something as trivial as a patent (which seems unlikely?!)?
isolde: If one is allowed to use the term 'normal' in the context of small houses, separating walls are not built directly against joists for the simple reason that joists have some flex, which can, if not crack, at least cause cracks in partition walls. 'Normally' one finishes with some kind of soft joint against the joists (cast). Then, I agree with pellepite. 7 cm is even too narrow for partition
anden213: If you want it to hold really well in drywall, molly bolts are the way to go. (Metal anchors with legs that fold out on the back.) You screw into the molly bolt with the accompanying screw (machine screw). I believe the maximum weight for a molly screw in single drywall is around 10-15 kilos. Just check if you have single or double drywall (one or two sheets of drywall, that is). The downside of
John J: [citat] Noticed that.. :mad: Took an old blade and cut anyway but now it's done and the discs will probably last for 100 years.
Immobil: Check with a mechanical workshop or the municipal warehouse if they have anything. Environmental and recycling stations are also possible places to search.
mojjen: [citat] What kind of spotlights do you have? Are they 20W furniture spotlights or LED? If you have 35W halogen spotlights, which are most common for general lighting, you normally need 10-12 cm free space to combustible materials. If you don't want to lower the ceiling too much, then install a downlight box partially in the existing ceiling. They are available in both round and square shapes. Cut
Micke H: Hello again, when you normally use oil-tempered hardboard, you have nothing but insulation, air gap, hardboard and then battens with an outer roof, often concrete tiles. But... if you have wood shingles, you can keep the shingles and place the hardboard directly on them or as I described with battens underneath to allow air between the shingles and the hardboard. Any water that may get in under
yens: I am attaching a couple of pictures of what I mean. The first picture shows how it looks today, a truss with studs "in" that support a thin, uninsulated wall. Image two shows my idea, to extend 120 mm against the sheathing to be able to frame up a wall that is 170. When that wall is done, I can build an air gap and insulate between the trusses as usual. The trusses are 50 deep, not 45, hence
Sippan7: Hi I became a bit curious when I saw that almost all the plasterboards in the house have a red plastic, I think it's only on one side. Could it be a vapor barrier? It also seems to be in some interior walls. The reason I'm asking is that we're working on a bathroom against an outer wall, planning to have a vinyl floor on both the wall and floor, and you preferably shouldn't have double barriers
OskarJansson: Of course, you can seal if you want to, personally, I would probably choose some type of silicon to ensure it. Oskar
yxet: Check how big the stones are that are mixed in the concrete and mix the same, then brush the surface should be nice!
tralopp: A Surform it was, went incredibly smoothly! A thousand thanks for the tips!! And I got some spacer pieces from a friend who had laid a new floor and had leftover scraps that were going to be thrown away anyway! I'm ridiculously pleased with the result! :D [bild]
mull: [citat] Googled it before I posted my entry but I didn't think I got answers to my questions.
v-g: Do it right if you plan to have the terrace for more than a few years. If you like LECA, you can place them on their side and bury them a little, and you'll have a pretty good result at least.
Mich: There is also a house where they built a 'greenhouse' (i.e., glass) over an existing house. They removed the roof, and the attic became a large play 'room'. I read about it in a newspaper. However, I got the impression that this was not professionally done, and they didn't seem to really know what they were doing. I have no idea if it still exists or if it works well or poorly.
carra: What type of ceiling and ceiling finish should one have in a room that will house an outdoor spa, Hot Spring, considering there will be quite a lot of steam when it's in full use...
källare: I used red primer on my Leca blocks and concrete bricks when I plastered my basement, and it worked great. I have also tried plastering directly on the Leca in a smaller room, and that works too.
JocZ: Problem solved!! Switched to coarse concrete and the casting completed,