Building Materials and Construction Technology
Egon84: Why not standing 120 with horizontal 120 on the outside and horizontal 45 on the inside? If, as it seems, you had access to cheap 120, it would provide much better insulation that way.
skånegård: Now the hole is made and nothing has collapsed so far... And the wall was definitely not load-bearing. The clay that was in the wall could be crumbled with fingers. Big thanks to the posts. They helped me a lot!
Returia: If you look at this page, you will see that it appears to be a special type of surface finish, not just "smooth concrete". www.tendances-decoration.fr/.../beton_cire.jpg
moOd: Hello, I am in the process of tearing down tiles and flooring in an old bathroom. The house is a 50s villa where the bathroom is located on the basement level, partly underground. I noticed earlier that there was a strange smell in the basement when we moved in about 2 weeks ago and I have managed to locate the smell to the bathroom by closing doors and sniffing around. Unfortunately, my sense of
JanneL: If the wall is going to be there permanently, I think you should saw away the parquet under the sill. I personally have bad experience with placing walls on top of floors. I'm primarily thinking about sound between the rooms.
Johan Gunverth: Should be available at any real construction market. Gapros range is an example http://www.gapro.se/uploads/produkter66.pdf
FredrikR: I have stripped and filled in 2 corners this past week, a 90 and 45-degree. The 45 runs from floor to ceiling. The 90-corner is on top of a stair enclosure (so hopefully no toys will hit there) :)
savio: I have now squeezed in a ruler at the top but it is still uneven, differing by 2cm from the highest to the lowest point =(
Borgen: Hello - I also believe Fredells can help you //Borgen
samuelk: Thank you for your quick response, I looked at the link and saw that it was 500mm just as you said. The top of the stove will end up 1000mm from the ceiling which is plastered (about 20mm). However, the smoke pipe will be slightly critical and enter where the ventilation duct is. An alternative might be to remove the wooden strip that sits on the niche and replace it with a faux plaster one. Are
Ahlbom: Don't know if you've already started with the rendering, but if you haven't and are still worried about frost, there is anti-frost solution you can mix in, available for purchase at building supply stores.
lillaelektrikern: cannot keep the lower beam because I want a lift in the garage and to be able to lift a car high enough it's in the way but as written, the image in the first example can work
robsarve: I removed the post as we have an ongoing process with the insurance company. Have currently spent almost half a million on our problem. In addition to the physical inconveniences. Large amounts of aldehydes can apparently cause polymerization in the binders in particleboard and thereby release emission. "Airborne contamination."
AndersS: As a windowsill, you can glue a thin laminate layer over the MDF if you have made seams, and then you will definitely not see any seams. It can also be overnailed if desired. This works especially well if you have many plants in the windows where water spills and pot marks otherwise leave marks. I get my laminate from a carpentry shop.
thalle: Nah, as long as the ridge beam isn't subjected to too much deflection. In this case, it would be about a max of 10mm according to calculations, in the worst-case scenario. That wouldn't give many mm out on the wall. I personally hadn't thought it would be a major problem, but an acquaintance of mine scared me. Although he didn't have any idea either and was just speculating...
Danne_83: I am constructing a lightweight exterior wall. From inside to outside, it consists of double plasterboard, 45 horizontal wooden studs with MU, vapor barrier, 220 vertical wooden studs with MU, 50 grooved foam plastic, 34 vertical battens (air gap), inorganic board, and thin plaster. My question is whether I need to have an inorganic board inside the grooved foam plastic? I can't see the benefit
raveper: Senildosa(rotdosa) and then some nice cover or so.
Generellt: Hi everyone on the forum! Need help. I installed slate flooring this summer in the bathroom. I bought the same slate for the kitchen and hall, and it is lighter than what I bought earlier. I want it to be black. What I have now is gray on some tiles. Will they darken? Is there a way to make them darker other than oiling them with tile oil? I want them significantly darker... Grateful for tips and
Kempa: Hello! I am looking for pictures of old stair railings (between 1800-1940) that I can use as a reference when building a railing for my house. Grateful for all responses. // Kempa
elajens: Did you get the chance to tear something down and look?
sled: Built the wall today.. It turned out incredibly stable! can't budge it! =) Thanks for all the tips!
m.algoe: [citat] Unfortunately not. It's my server that will be out there, and wireless won't cut it. Among other things, I stream movies over the network, and it needs to be fast.
searlaitm: [citat] Hello! I am new to the forum but was very glad to find this particular discussion. I am considering creating a sleeping alcove with storage under the bed or alternatively furnishing my workspace in the current closet. It’s so dingy and dark that I bought a freestanding wardrobe. ;) I have asked my housing association if I can tear down the walls, and they only cared about whether it was
passe-snass: hi, is there anyone who has an idea of how much it costs to get new sheets on a roof? The house is a normal size, 150 m2, 2 valleys (short about 2 meters each), bargeboards, gutters, chimney flashing (large chimney with 8 pipes), a straight dormer. The tinsmith I talked to said that a normal villa usually costs 60-75 thousand finished with VAT, seems expensive to me. what do you think? regards,
Johan Gunverth: [citat] If the tread depth is then 24 cm + nosing, it will be good.