Building Materials and Construction Technology
Inger Arvidsson N: I have drywall that is wallpapered with a paper wallpaper with wood chips that gives a rough surface. I would like to renovate and get plastered walls which, as I understand it, is usually done on a masonry substrate. Is this possible? Maybe I need to first remove the wallpaper and apply a primer??
frhe: Here is, for example, an article that discusses the importance of air tightness in relation to diffusion tightness http://www.thebestconference.org/best1/pdfs/044.pdf In the above article, it should be remembered that it deals with houses in Florida where the outdoor climate is warm and humid and the indoor climate is cold and dry. Therefore, their constructions look different. However, the
Berliner: Hi, there is a so-called "Hessenkralle" at least in Germany. It is a kind of metal plate that is screwed onto the side of the frame and then attached to the wall. Search under google.de Berliner
KMD: I have a basement that I want to fix... paint a membrane in the shower corner? The house is drained but not the floor... so I was planning to skip the membrane in the toilet when I tile, but the question is just about the shower corner... grout and fix breathe well, so it won't be such a big problem to lay tiles in the toilet... it's just the shower corner, should I lay the membrane on the floor
Mikael_L: You're right to keep the panel if you like it and it holds some sentimental value. If it turns out to be almost impossible to manage the panel, that's another situation, but I don't think that will be the case. It's just unnecessary to tear down and throw away things that are still OK.
cem77: Something that I personally find attractive is raised walls with horizontal windows that let in light. Common on older timbered houses and also today on newly produced ones. Ex: http://www.varsasvillan.se/detaljer.asp?prod_id=45 Combine it with a stylish wooden floor that the light can shine over.
anaitis: If it is gypsum plaster, you can sand it easily. It obviously creates a lot of dust, but it's doable. Rent a wall sander with a suction attachment. If you want to remove the entire layer, rent a demolition hammer. They remove plaster quickly, but this also creates dust...
pa.albinsson: True. I'm going with your approach. Smart with the circular saw, it will be easy to break off the pieces later. At first, I thought it would be difficult to remove the chipboard without making holes in the plastic.
cederbusch: [citat] Yes, or whatever you want to call it. Repair it anyway.
Krawk: The "apartment-separating" wall likely has a stabilizing function today. That is, it resists the wind on the long sides when it blows. Not certain, but if that is the case, then you might need to reinforce somewhere else if you tear down that wall. For example, place a wind brace in the wall between the bathrooms. However, it completely depends on how it is constructed.
sauk1: Hello, I wonder if zinc sheet (gray) usually changes color over time or if it more or less looks the same within the foreseeable future? This is about sheet metal for outdoor use.
Mikael_L: Approximately 5 cm wide are the strips, that's correct. Apply the compound thoroughly, and filled to at least half when you've finally leveled off a reasonably even surface on the compound. Press the strip with a long stroke of the putty knife so it's pressed firmly into the wet compound, you can stroke a bit extra later if it seems necessary. Now you must not apply additional compound over this
b8q: Well, I was thinking about that too, but why on earth have a fire protection in the middle of the floor structure, with both beams and chipboard both below and above, instead of directly in the ceiling? Maybe all the "real" builders were mobilized for defense in '43? :P
Lasse B: I'm planning to set up a wildlife fence around the property and use rose arches as doorways. Of course, I need doors/gates and I'm thinking of building them like this. A frame of 45x120 timber "fills" the lower part with vertical cinnamon and I'll "lattice" the upper part. I'm thinking of assembling everything with 6mm wooden dowels and long drilling and gluing. Hopefully, it will look like a
magnu: You can knock out screws with a "vass" punch. Just hit the screw a bit, and it will thread itself out. It's a bit difficult with M3, but doable with slightly larger dimensions.
fremag: I am tearing out my old bathroom and am considering what is load-bearing and what is not. In the pictures below, you can see where the rafters go (one picture marked with silver tape :) and in the other, it's visible with nails and joints in the ceiling). The house has a 45-degree roof pitch with a raised wall. Adjacent rooms have "kattvindar" which I believe are part of the load-bearing
estwing: placing joist hangers there as well as bolts. how else would you do it if you don’t have support?
Johan Gunverth: The latter, as it smells like snpållösning.
anaitis: [citat] Not yield strength??? That value is too high.
s60: Hello! I am planning to build a balcony above a room. I have a sliding part on the ground floor with an opening of 3000mm and my question is: What dimension of glulam should I have above the sliding part? I will have 220*45 as the joists with a span of 3000mm which will rest on the glulam. Looked at this dimension 90x225x3500 mm, is it okay or is a thicker one required?? Best regards
Mikael_L: Yes I almost forgot about this thread. Yes, I don't think the plastic turning up a few decimeters towards the "outside" should matter. On the inside, it should be plastic, tight and neat, to prevent warm air with a lot of moisture (in the form of water vapor) from getting into the wall, condensing into water, and making everything wet. Towards the outside, it should not be vapor-tight, so that
styrman1: Actually, it should be glued up, but everyone staples and it probably doesn't matter.
Havsutsikt: My brother-in-law hired the same company I used for the patio railing. The company installed a balcony in galvanized iron with a wooden floor that was screwed into the facade. Check with the blacksmiths in your area to see what they can offer, it’s going to look great.
norrbottenstorpet: No, not against the channels used for the fireplace. Possibly your chimney sweep might agree to replace the 100 mm air with 100 mm rock wool, outside of which you can then build. But free airflow is among the best you can have to protect yourself against fire. It is not usually the bricks in the wall itself that break but rather that cracks occur in the joint/mortar between the bricks. A full
Ezcobar: If you're building with leca you might as well use an iso leca. That is, a block leca, fst with a type of insulation in it. Then you just plaster both the inside and outside. If you don't want plaster on the inside, you can just frame as usual and drywall!