38,163 views ·
24 replies
38k views
24 replies
How to cut MDF in the best way?
Page 1 of 2
Hi, I am going to cover my walls with MDF boards and then paint them. However, I've heard that they can "fray" at the edges if you cut them (right or wrong?) and I'm wondering how to cut/divide them in the best way to get good edges/joints.
Is there anything else to consider regarding MDF? Best painting method? Spackling? What type of screw to use to attach it to wood?
I choose MDF to have more to "screw into" than Gypsum.
Thanks in advance.
Is there anything else to consider regarding MDF? Best painting method? Spackling? What type of screw to use to attach it to wood?
I choose MDF to have more to "screw into" than Gypsum.
Thanks in advance.
No, I've been recommended MDF. This is for a summer cottage and is to be placed above a wainscot. Today, there's only a 3 mm plywood there. So I just wanted to reinforce that wall a bit with a surface that's good for painting, but still one that you can screw into. However, it can't be too thick because the wainscot is there, and I only have 11-12mm to play with before I'm in line with the wainscot.
Why shouldn't I choose MDF then becomes a follow-up question?
Why shouldn't I choose MDF then becomes a follow-up question?
MDF can be easily cut with a circular or table saw. I probably wouldn't put it on the wall though. MDF is more suitable for furniture carpentry, window sills, jamb extensions, moldings, and trims.
They didn't use MDF in that way. If you want something to screw into, you should mount OSB behind the plasterboard. If you don't have room for OSB, I would only mount the plasterboard.
MDF becomes problematic on the wall, partly because the joints will be difficult to conceal. Moreover, you'll likely have a tough time with the screw heads, depending a bit on the thickness of the MDF you choose.
If you're still intent on using MDF, decking screws are probably suitable for that purpose.
MDF becomes problematic on the wall, partly because the joints will be difficult to conceal. Moreover, you'll likely have a tough time with the screw heads, depending a bit on the thickness of the MDF you choose.
If you're still intent on using MDF, decking screws are probably suitable for that purpose.
Last edited:
It's probably just the studs behind the masonite. That's why I want to put up something more "stable." But maybe you could put a thinner OSB and then a masonite on top of that, so you should get a smooth surface to paint. Or is it possible to putty OSB to get it smooth and nice? (though it feels like it would require a lot of work, including sanding, etc.)
If the wall is not properly built from the start, it might not be much extra work to remove the bröstpanel and start over and "do it right"?
I would rather live with having only drywall to attach things to than having to paint or wallpaper on any other material than just drywall.
I would rather live with having only drywall to attach things to than having to paint or wallpaper on any other material than just drywall.
No.styrman1 said:
http://www.wiwood.se/mainwi.htm
But the format of other thicknesses is a bit inconvenient.
/Bessersmidth
If you absolutely want chipboard, it would work if you then cover it with plaster. Personally, I hate plaster, but on the walls you have to have it. Just using a wooden board will undoubtedly cause cracks at the joints.
Regarding MDF and weight, the larger boards are quite tricky to handle...
Regarding MDF and weight, the larger boards are quite tricky to handle...