Building Materials and Construction Technology
pbengtsson: I have received a lot of special lists from a carpentry factory. There should be no problem making a list with the opening of 130 degrees.
Krawk: The wall is probably stabilizing. That is, it prevents the house from collapsing like a house of cards when the wind blows. However, on the other hand, it's a somewhat unusual solution to build a wind brace using "kortlingar"...
Mikael_L: Yes, 45x45 and double layers of pbs sheets will probably be super sturdy; I doubt anyone will notice that it's 45x70 instead. ;) But as a little "wiggle room" when screwing, it might be a good idea. An even better advantage is that it increases the chance of finding one or several studs when you're mounting something really heavy.
Ottman: Regarding the image above, that projection is called a "utkragning," something that was done in the past. This was done to be able to lay wooden beams flush, but this method is no longer recommended (stopped being used in the 60s) as these ledges can crack and break the chimney at the floors. I would probably aim to remove them and have a ventilated space instead (much, much better). Just make
Jan-Å: [citat] What is economically worthwhile depends on the location. In metropolitan areas where house prices are high, it pays to build new, in depopulated areas where used houses are significantly cheaper than new ones, it's worth buying a used one regardless of condition. But then you also have to find a plot in a location where you want to live, if that's not possible, a used house is what you
J.A: Thanks for the link. Actually, I have room to extend the stairs even more, up to 400 cm (the long part) is really not a problem. And maybe it will just make for an even more comfortable staircase...? I'll listen around more and have another talk with the stair manufacturer...
pjop: Hi, we are going to build in our insert. The plan is - Fire wall 10 cm lightweight concrete, 45 mm steel studs and air gap, gypsum - Framing in Minerit board and steel stud Is it an OK construction, or will the steel studs expand and crack the Minerit? P
turmenator: Hello I am renovating a room in the basement where there was some type of plastic paint on the walls. The plaster had come loose at the bottom near the floor in some places as well. I have now scraped off all the plastic paint on the walls and loose plaster, but I don't know if it's lime mortar or cement-lime (kc) mortar I have? Can it be easily checked? I am grateful for any good advice on how
Sipuli: Outsourcing - not something we dare for ourselves. The alternative would be to remove the wall between the kitchen and living room to enlarge the kitchen, but it would be a shame to "ruin" the feeling of the house in that way. Thought I'd ask here first if the staircase move is at all a reasonable measure.
cederbusch: Droop nose, absolutely. But that hadn't been invented in '36 apparently. :) There's no color on the ends either. But the façade is going to be repainted so there will be color. We'll see if I can muster the energy to take a round with the saw.
carl16gustaf: [citat] I have opened into the existing house, so the ventilation is connected to the mechanical exhaust ventilation. However, I don't have a separate "construction ventilation" right now. I don't have a moisture meter for wood but a hygrometer that's there, and it shows 42%. When I saw the moisture at the bottom, I took apart a bit (I haven't plastered yet) to see if I could find the source.
danielr112: Yes, that's true. Lazy as I am, I want them against the skivan ;)
Yrrol: anticimex said that there was probably no danger in my bedrooms... but I shouldn't install new insulation and panels until the cause was completely resolved... he didn't buy the idea of covering the windows with plastic, at the end of the conversation he pointed out that he didn't dare advise anything other than the most extreme though... so now the construction is at a standstill.. bah..
Bjoern: [citat] Yes, if it's that bad then chicken wire is king. That sounds like a reasonable approach, after all, that's how it's done when plastering.
carlbanan: Hello again! There was no deal there last summer (for various reasons), but the house is still up for sale and I haven't really been able to let it go :) I have a few questions which might be difficult for you to answer, but I'm trying! The house is rectangular, 1½ stories...Log frame, about 10x7 meters...I suspect that a wall through the house is load-bearing, and if a deal becomes relevant, I
Scitz0: Just realized that the floor doesn't go all the way to the edge :( ... a small gap of maybe max 5mm at most. But maybe it can be concealed without installing a baseboard?
läppglans: it's an apartment. I'm not sure how old the building is, but at least 30 years. if I tear up the floor, what happens with the sound insulation??
Mats: I'm not going to say anything about the floor drain, but the rest doesn't look worse than what my floor did. However, the leveling compound failed there (probably too short a time between primer and compound) so I had to remove it again, meaning even more sanding, but I sanded and sanded and sanded... There were some small holes afterwards as I applied leveling compound, max one cm in diameter
fredda_p: Yes, you probably should. However, it's easier to install a plåtvinkel! /F
vojma: LPP - resolved on-site You will need to arrange for grooves to be milled into adjacent walls and have an electrician on standby who can run conduits and wires for you.
gege: Hello. We have torn down our rotten veranda, which had a balcony on top from the upper floor. Now we've poured a slab with underfloor heating on the ground where the veranda was and plan to build a new hall in that location (about 2 x 4m). I've been searching for construction drawings on how to build to solve the issue with the balcony on top in an efficient way, but can't find a good example.
Roundup: That doesn't sound impossible, but it probably requires great precision and a lot of fiddling with the mold. Reinforcing the overhang might also be a bit tricky. A simpler alternative might be to cast up to floor height and place/fix/glue a loose slab on top of concrete or natural stone. There are stonemasons who can make custom-sized slabs with beveled edges.
Suus: A small update if anyone is interested; The requirement is related to how many degrees the chimney wall can reach. If it's not more than 75/85 degrees, you can build with wood against it. The recommendations are stricter... Checked with the insurance company as well and they are satisfied as long as the requirement is met.
henke82: Currently renovating the kitchen in the house and realized that the current window will sit about 3 cm below the countertop, so I've decided to replace the old window with a round one. I just have a few questions about the best way to install the window. Should I seal off the window with leca blocks and then cut out a hole, or should I perhaps make a mold and cast concrete in the opening? Which
byggare henke: when placing the first board, make sure it is plumb. don't just measure how high/wide a board should be.
Yrrol: Have now purchased wall insulation and plastic... Remains to decide on which sealant to use when applying a bead to glue the board (will screw it as well, of course) Before that, I also thought about applying a bead along all 90-degree angles between studs and the existing board (only removed one wall board)... -Is it unwise, should it be able to breathe, or if there is a new leak, is it better
styrman1: Take a sheet with as many layers as possible. I believe there are up to 7 layers on 12mm snickeriplywood.
Kurtivan: Take a look at this ad, maybe you'll get a hint: http://www.blocket.se/vasternorrland/Takstolar_25629268.htm?ca=4&w=1&last=1