Building Materials and Construction Technology
D09: Are there formulas to get a good staircase with step heights/depths, etc. 2 x step height + step depth = 63
Lite: I have now, after your kind and experienced tips, decided to calm down about this. When you sit and ponder, plan, calculate on your own, especially when you haven't done it before at that scale, you don't realize what will come with it. I had thought that you would tear down everything you could on the outer walls, replace a couple of studs, run the electrical wiring, insulate, put up a drywall,
Lasse Kongo: Ok. Big thank you for the help. :-)
LuniZ: Hi, I was wondering if anyone knows what exactly fiberplank from Hultsfredshus are made of. It seems like there is no information available about it at all. I was mostly thinking about whether they might contain anything hazardous to health.
BigGitt: Today you can buy corner trim in plastic, wood, and metal. If you glue it all the way, you avoid problems. If you need to putty, you should mask around it. And do NOT use regular putty. Model plaster or rep fix.
Paul-Staffanstorp: It is never recommended to tile on such a material, but it usually works well with, for example, this type of adhesive which is flexible. http://lip.dk/?ID=623&WEBID=3
Mikael_L: You can gain an additional step by chamfering the opening in the stairwell, if it works constructively that is. Say the stairwell starts 25cm further into the ceiling, and then slopes about 30-35 degrees. Then the floor above can cover a bit more area above the stairs. But it becomes trickier with the joists, more work. And in some cases impossible.
Tokyoboy: A nice iron fence? Can be ordered from abroad if it becomes too expensive in Sweden.
Ekberg: Okay then! Styrman1: I assume you mean Beijer, it's not on the website, but I guess not everything is there, they do have a good range so that was the first place I checked. Optimera is probably really expensive without a company account, but XL-bygg is worth checking out. And K-rauta did have 90 boards on the website. Thanks /Dan
Arne999: It is old and worn with many seams. I have also torn down some interior walls, so there are missing pieces from the floor :(
Yrrol: What is best to achieve: A) best stability B) best sound reduction Is it as I think, placing extra studs between the old ones? Though then there will be fewer insulation strips... Or to widen the existing ones? But according to people, insulation doesn't have much to do with sound dampening other than eliminating box noise... And if there are more distributed studs, the wall panels should vibrate
Swappe: Screw clips for the roof, cc60. =) Regards Thomas
pajsen: ok will check it out! But it probably doesn't need to be very flexible. I've thought correctly when I use plywood form since it shouldn't absorb any moisture or move. And it shouldn't be flexible, right? The frame is super stable and greatly overdimensioned. But it should stand there for a really long time. I happen to have a box of pl400 lying around.
joedoe: We are planning to build a new structure with timber frame and horizontal single bevel siding 22x145 mm as the façade. We had planned for a 327 mm exterior wall (22 panel, 28 air gap, wind protection, 13 inorganic board, 195 bearing framework with 2x95 insulation, vapor barrier, 45 horizontal framework with 45 insulation, 11 OSB, 13 gypsum). The new BBR 16 regulations specify, according to
cim97cd4: Hello, Does anyone know where to find marble or granite for window sills? Bauhaus only had one model!
mIkEtReE: All images and links to your websites with pictures of the facades. Are they available? Looking for inspiration for the summer for my 1909 house with falurödfärg!
danielr112: Completely true! I think I will go for cc30 too. You never know how many lights you will want to have in the end.
JanneL: If you have the opportunity, fit the beam on the upper floor and secure the floor joists with hängseljärn. That way, you won't need to have the beam on the lower floor.
isolde: The debate about homemade glulam beams and their strength compared to purchased glulam. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/tak-vind/66994-ungefaerligt-pris-pa-limtraebalkar.html
Jan-Å: Moisture-resistant drywall in the kitchen seems excessive to me, I wouldn't do it. I glued drywall to the wall in the hallway where we removed the walls around the guest toilet, it worked well as a base for wallpapering later. Framing the wall might be interesting if it's very uneven, but a masonry wall with plaster is usually fairly straight. Not wooden studs in that case, it's silly to mix a
Yrrol: I'm a bit concerned about one of the existing glulam beams... In one part of the corridor, which has a smaller opening, they've placed a very high glulam beam, while the larger opening to the living room has a significantly lower beam. Should I perhaps take the opportunity to remove this one and install a stronger one instead?
Yrrol: The painter thought I should use silicone when sealing inside the walls, he had heard that mice liked latex? kinkymöss.. :)
zankan: if you have wooden studs use regular chipboard screws for wood 28 mm for the chipboard and 41 mm drywall screws for wood for the gypsum
Farzan: But what will you have on top of the underfloor heating? The purpose of saving the floor for last is to avoid damaging it during the construction period. But are you really going to have the "finish floor" directly on top of the underfloor heating? No floor gypsum or anything like that first..?
Forbo: There are different ways to look at it. If you want to get a no from the board, you should ask first... when they hear the words "load-bearing wall" they will say a firm no. But if you come with a good plan, the chances are greater. That's how it has worked in our association anyway. Personally, I wouldn't mess with load-bearing walls in a multi-family house... and I don't want others to do it
BigGitt: You can always check how to use foam when installing windows. And no moisture gets in. Use the same principle and it will be fine.
jojjekaa: [citat] Of course, I'm going to make a frame around with rails that are attached to the wall against the ceiling, then you just insert the beams into the rail and attach the beams to the ceiling with brackets. Directly against the ceiling is not necessary since the ceiling is level today :)
Pompe1997: I am going to build a chimney approximately 7 meters high with lecablock and wonder how thick the joint should be between the lecablocks? Do you need to reinforce with rebar? Pompe1997