Building Materials and Construction Technology
Yrrol: Since everything is a budget modular build, they had some funny solutions for making interior walls. Like making frames inside the walls. I thought of mounting full-length studs between the frames and maybe adding some wood between the frame and the ceiling where there are 15-25mm gaps. What would you have done if you had such frames inside the walls - torn everything down and rebuilt it the
BillyBragg: Aha :) How smart! Of course, I should do that.. Nah okay.. I have a little corner under a staircase where I can try a bit.. It would be much easier if I didn't miter..
thomasd79: Hello. I'm intensely searching for a threshold strip in anodized or darker aluminum. The problem is that there's a 20mm height difference and all the strips I've found only handle up to 15 mm. Does anyone have any tips on where to find this?
lajsiiwan: A basic thing to consider is that everything takes longer than you think. And always start in one room and keep going until it's done, otherwise you'll end up in trouble later :)
byggare henke: The chem expander is supposed to guarantee you a functional filling of the holes. But it's expensive if there aren't many. However, the advantage is the long injection needle, so you can fill the entire hole.
f0u: It felt quite clear about the moisture barriers. :) Thanks for the help! Do you have any good advice regarding the other questions?
Fredde_j: I recommend Hornbach, got countertops for my entire kitchen there at a great price and good assistance.
Pediatrik: Hello! Does anyone know where in Stockholm you can look at Arké stairs, among others? I'm in need of a spiral staircase between floors 2 and 3 at home. I'm going up this weekend and would like to see a staircase "live" before I possibly order one! Thanks!
Udde: Found a previous thread on the subject. Will probably go with regular cement this time. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/golv/123414-eps-cement-pa-kaellargolv.html
parpignol: Hello! I was considering a similar solution, and was thinking of making cutouts in the side beam. Otherwise, the neatest option is probably to weld on small plates for the steps to rest on? You can always recess them from underneath into the steps if you want thinner steps... Best regards, Kalle
anaitis: Sikaflex 291, white, cartridge, 310ml109.- Should be able to go. Getting a bit expensive...
magnusss: I would try to cut a triangular strip from scraps and use it as a trimming strip. Or buy a ready-made trimming strip.
akjo: We have a 70s pine staircase that needs a facelift. We have considered various options and right now we're thinking about glass panels instead of the slats. Is there anyone who has done something like that?
parpignol: Hello! I'm about to install a vapor barrier in the ceiling of our bedroom, as we have an extra-insulated cold attic. I've checked the forums but still don't know what to do. For now, when I see the tongue-and-groove and how dry the roofing paper was that I removed, it feels very strange to put in a plastic layer. If I install it below the tongue-and-groove and then staple the plastic, it will
Farzan: Höganäs has a white beveled tile called Biselado which is available in 10 x 20. When comparing Biselado and Gysinges, Gysinges' variant (which they import from a manufacturer in Spain) is thicker, has steeper beveling, and a slightly uneven surface that gives a more rustic impression. We have Gysinges and I think it's very beautiful but I've heard many who have Biselado and are very satisfied
Farzan: Completely symmetrical trims are, as mentioned, quite rare among moldings and such. Check among "decorative trims," that’s the category where I’ve found some (though with companies here in the Stockholm area, so that doesn’t particularly help you). For the shelves, I think symmetrical profiled trims of only 16 mm width are probably very hard to find in building supplies stores. I'm
Krickel: Hi, I'm planning to lower my slanted ceiling with a frame of metal studs that I'll attach to the walls. So two studs will be angled and two straight, and there's my problem. When I put studs between them, they will be angled on the straight studs, if you know what I mean? Anyone know how to do it or have tips? I'm planning to install downlights.
hakaner: Andreas, read on the forum about the problems with cold attics. How serious the problem is, is hard to say, but numbers indicate that 70% of all cold attics are affected in some form...
Immobil: Try with screws first. Sometimes that's enough.
Manberg: [citat] There is also a special putty for this! For example, Beckers Breplasta J
jomany: That company's inspiration images make my stomach turn :x http://www.byggaoinreda.com/images/hem/inspiration-hem.htm ..... excuse me, I have to turn off the computer to go throw up. ///j
bigsnucke: Here's a carpentry that "reflects" a bit on its website regarding timber selection. (Note: I have no affiliation with it, no covert advertising...)
Apprentice: So you find out how many boards you can fit in terms of width. Then, you divide the roof width at each end by the number and make markings. If you can manage this without any gaps, just go ahead. Otherwise, you need to create wedges on the sides to at least center the boards. Crystal clear?
JOW: Think through ventilation a couple of times so you don't get hiss/static in the recordings. Yes, a bit off topic, but a spontaneous tip is never wrong.. ;)
Yrrol: well, nice for the thieves too... :)
Swappe: Search for puts/putsa in the forum. There's a lot of information. If you're going to putsa on leca, fill in the holes beforehand with suitable mortar. You mention that it's leca mixed with stone with large holes.. could it be concrete block? Post a picture, and maybe more people will respond.. Has it been plastered before or are the walls "bare"?
