Building Materials and Construction Technology
MaZtoR: Plastic cracks, fades, and the glue in the seams usually detaches. Are they even cheaper?
John J: Assume you'll need some kortlingar as well...
gaia: [citat] eternitplattor are non-flammable, moisture resistant, and durable. Think again before you start tearing down half the house. And replace the eternit with what? Gypsum with a paper surface that easily molds in humid spaces like bathrooms, laundry rooms, garages. Then you've got another material that might need mold remediation in the future... Paint or wallpaper over the boards instead,
Gabbe1: Or an IPE 200 that has 1943 cm4 (assuming the figure you presented includes a safety factor, otherwise an IPE 180 might be too weak). Edit: I noticed you asked about HE beams. HE180A or HE160B. They have similar performance in terms of deflection.
embeoo: After giving it some more thought, I realize that I neither need to nor should drive the expansion screw through the timber. Naturally, I attach the expander to the plaster as usual and switch to screws of appropriate length to secure the wooden frame with. I'm an idiot. Thank you for not pointing that out! :)
JanneSjo: another question - since I'm not screwing the posts into the floor but into the decking, I should have 2-3 longitudinal 28x95 boards from the wall post to the corner post - so that the railing doesn't come loose if someone leans against it. will 60 mm decking screws or possibly 40 mm anchor screws be enough to fix the board to the post - or should I use through bolts, like carriage bolts.
zsimpey: plastic only against the outer wall and cold attic. would do as you mentioned, that is, frame up, insulate and plastic before drywall. in the outer wall, that is.
roggabear: Thanks for the info. Was upstairs last night attaching/splicing with screws/glue on the underside of the beams. Now it's time to start screwing the floorboards :)
steppen7: A bit strange that there is an article here on byggahus saying about 550+VAT or something like that. Who has actually gotten such a price?
Willard: I am wondering if anyone knows how much load a 45x170 pressure-treated joist can handle. The idea is that it will be 8x30 meters, attached to the wall, and have 3 support beams. How close should the piers for the support beams be placed? The plan is to have a hot tub on one short side with an estimated weight of 2500kg when in use. It is obvious that one must tighten the spacing from 600mm to
Farzan: It will probably hold, but make sure there are kortlingar where the sinks are to be screwed in.
kalubah: I have a wall that consists of the following surface: approximately 10% bare brick (quite uneven) without plaster. approximately 10% 1cm plaster (unpainted, somewhat "crumbly") on brick. approximately 80% painted fiberglass wallpaper on similar plastered brick. I would like to make this smooth. I'm considering two options: 1. Screw on 21x45 battens and attach OSB + plasterboard. 2. Glue on 6mm
Mikael_L: Oh no, nothing so dramatic. :) The joint has moved very minimally, so the paint has cracked into a hairline crack along the entire board joint. The movement and the crack are so small that I strongly doubt it could have even been noticed if it were wallpaper, but paint cracks quite distinctly and is easy to see. I can easily live with it in just the garage, but on a painted wall in the residence,
Immobil: As long as the impregnated wood is not exposed to moisture, there is no danger.
dreamer: Hello Hakaner! We are going to expand our home with Dorocell. I wonder how it went for you to build by yourself with this system? Did it go well with the building permit? Did they agree to let you build on your own? How did you support the wall while filling it with concrete? Grateful for help.
Jan-Å: What does the exterior wall look like? If it is plastered, there's a risk it will crack if you drill from the inside; in that case, I would rather sacrifice a tile. From what type of room are you drilling? Bathroom? Laundry room? etc. I would use a hole saw for tiles and then drill further from there. If it's concrete hollow blocks or similar behind, you need to use percussion to get through,
gaia: As I understand it, you still have the old plaster on certain parts of your wall. In that case, it's important to repair/plaster with the same type or "weaker" material. If you're not going to tile, lime plaster is likely the easiest for a beginner to work with, I think. I've only plastered with lime plaster and I liked it - you can work without stressing that it sets before you're done :). It's
Bonan: [citat] Now, maybe you have an excavator or a very big need to dig, but insulating a basement from the outside requires quite a lot to do afterwards. If the basement is dry and ventilated and you have an air gap of at least 3 cm between the framework/insulation and the basement wall, it works well and the wall can breathe. So no studs or insulation against the walls. The base plate is placed on
kalubah: Bringing up this thread because I would also like to have an answer to the above.
Mikael_L: Regarding the choice of screws and boards, I can say this: (my limited experience and knowledge) I screwed the OSB with 32mm particleboard screws, slightly more sparsely than plasterboards should be screwed, i.e., 20-25 cm between the screws. I would always use particleboard screws for OSB, plywood, and particleboard because of their countersinking head. Then I staggered the joints by one stud
ptlf: Cement mortar or concrete? You can make cement thick and also some concrete, but which one adheres better and sets faster?:S
Rewolf: Thank you! It's amazing how easy it can be sometimes. It turned out to be called FF Falsfäste. I will talk to a hardware store as early as tomorrow!d^_^b
kråkslottet: We have also planned to build planting beds out of used bricks. We have the materials at home and want to start building but don't know where to begin. Does anyone have the knowledge? We can handle the actual building but what should we consider regarding the foundation. That is, the base material, depth, etc. Ours are about 1 meter wide and 2.5 long. About 40 - 50 cm in height above ground.