How should I proceed? My plan is to drill with a concrete drill and insert plugs to attach the studs to the aerated concrete.
Or is it enough to just drive regular nails right into the aerated concrete?
 
nail plug and studs...
 
Yes, long plugs work. Cut nails were used in the past, but it's probably not recommended today. If you were to find some, you risk the wall cracking or creating craters when you nail and hammer.

The alternative is to seal the hole with lightweight concrete/lecablock. This is the only way to completely remove the doorway. The risk is that small cracks may appear around the seam if you cover it with boards. It also gives a different feel to the wall, but that might matter less. The problem with cracks is indeed less if you wallpaper the wall.
 
There is a thread about exactly that with a plastered concrete wall admittedly, but the principle is the same. Studs and board will definitely both be visible and crack regardless of wallpapering or not. Maybe it would work with metal studs and gypsum, admittedly they are not organic and should move together with the wall, but that's nothing I've tried.
 
...if you are going to use reglar in the hole (it will crack) it is also fine to glue the reglar with assembly adhesive, like pl400. They will be rock solid and you avoid messing with screws and plugs.
 
There are also lättbetongsskruv if you want to avoid plugs.
 
I attached the studs with plugs and screws, the hardest part was making sure they were really in the middle. Then I attached a humidboard on top and then built up holes and between the board and wall with gipsum I think it's called. Later the entire wall will be tiled.
Was it stupid? Could it crack underneath and affect the tiles?
 
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If the entire wall were to be tiled, I would have glued up a plasterboard (unless it's a damp wall, of course). Then you would certainly avoid cracks.
 
I had bricked it up...It's not that hard...just be a little extra careful and let it take the time it needs...
 
Now I have already set it up and today we start applying the waterproofing layer. But if it cracks underneath, is there a risk that it will cause the tiles to fall off? Or will it crack enough that the tile joints will crack? Isn't the waterproofing layer a bit soft, so it might prevent the tiles from being affected by the cracks underneath?
 
Seriously, if the rest of the room is in stone and it's a wet room, I would definitely build it up with lecablock! Is it worth risking the waterproofing layer cracking? Moisture damage, etc.

If you don't choose to build, at least lay strips over the joint that are available from the waterproofing supplier. Like the kind used in floor angles. However, this should be "straight," i.e., not at a 90-degree angle.
 
hmmm......is gypsum really something you use in a wet room? My gut feeling says it's not right but I'm not sure.....
 
I have closed off two doors in a stone house using metal studs and plywood/drywall (in other words, not a bathroom). The result after 2 years is that there are cracks in all the joints.

If I were to do it now with that knowledge, I would either:
a) have bricked up the door opening
b) ensured that the drywall overlapped the joint by "a good bit" (30-60 cm) and was well anchored to the stone wall (plugged and glued).

B requires countersinking the drywall if you can't install new drywall/skim coat the entire wall, which is why I would probably still choose a.

I wouldn't want to think about the effect of cracks in a bathroom...

Regarding Gypsum and bathrooms, it is okay according to Maxit.
 
Well, gypsum should be okay because that's what the tile company told me to use.
Yes, then it sounds like there might be problems later, but it's far from the shower, so I don't think there's any danger if the waterproofing layer cracks. More that the grout would start to come loose or that tiles would fall down. Can that happen?
 
I have placed strips over the joints.
 
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