Building Materials and Construction Technology
jenssoderberg: After casting some bases against a drywall in a basement, I had some fiber-reinforced concrete left in the bucket. Said and done, I used it to plaster the seams between the drywall sheets. I don't remember the brand of the fiber-reinforced cement, but it held like a rock in the drywall seams when I was done. So it might be something to consider, but above all to test.
Ola78: There is always a risk that the roofing felt will break when the decking is placed directly on it, not good. My advice is to lay metal as the outermost layer instead, it also lasts significantly longer than roofing felt.
Mats: Depending on how thick the wall is, a standard electrical box from each side plus a cover plate or even an RJ45 outlet?
snuttjulle: When you frame out from an old wall, the normal practice is to build a new frame around it and then attach the studs to the frame. This way, all framed walls look and function excellently. This also ensures it is straight without trying to insert something between the old wall.
Mangan: [citat] I will see if there are brackets for crossbars to buy for Lindab's metal profiles. If there are, then I plan to place a horizontal metal stud as a crossbar between two vertical studs. On the crossbar, I will then attach a small wood stud to which I can nail the box. That should be perfect :) Plan B would be to cut wings on the metal stud so I won't need the corner brackets if there aren't
vojma: Screw the board in place, rough saw most of it away first. Leave at least 5 cm towards the stringer. Then cut with a knife and snap as usual. Then bring out the surform and polish the details.
mickh: Hi, I'm planning to build a split-level house with a building area of 120 sqm. I had initially thought of using regular Leca blocks for the basement level, but now I've seen the DSM blocks. It seems very convenient to avoid using mortar during the layering/stacking. So my question is if anyone has experience with building basement walls using DSM blocks? What would the price difference be
martin_westin: Many thanks for all the answers! Hopefully, I'll become a bit wiser soon!!
strevert: Hello I currently have a basement wall in the stairwell down to the basement that faces my wood storage in the basement. The wood storage is not heated, other than by the wood boiler located in the room outside. The wall is built with concrete hollow blocks. How should one proceed here? I want drywall on that wall, from ceiling upstairs to floor in the basement. I assume I need some form of air
S.Wiklund: What do you think about possibly whitewashing the pine floor in the living room??? If it is load-bearing, which I also guess since our daughters' bedroom wall rests on that wall, it will either be a steel beam or a wooden beam, and possibly a kartobalk if it holds, that is.
Prosit: My previous link was wrong, this one probably works better: http://www.passivhuscentrum.se/fileadmin/pdf/Utf%C3%B6rande_HBH.pdf Maybe it's a good idea to glue the plastic from the wall to the floor, then put a 45x45 on it that is attached to the sill? Belt and suspenders, so to speak... ;-)
Forbo: Mmm.. have already suggested that solution.. but she thinks it's "practical" with a fabric curtain... I think the opposite. But I guess we'll start with that, easier to remove the curtain and build sliding doors than the other way around:-)
injonil: Exactly, you seem more interested in the standard that is being used for building. Check for example Träguiden, http://www.traguiden.se/
MaZtoR: Depends on the insulation value of the blocks and how much window area/insulation value of the windows, roof insulation, and floor insulation you are going to have.
jerk: Yes, there is a crush guard on the lift table, but I will mount the lift table 80 cm below the wooden deck, which will have two levels, so I need to come up with a solution that moves the safety device to the edge of the wooden deck. Maybe fix some type of rubber strip with an integrated switch like on garage doors.
gadeberg: Hello! Earlier this fall, I removed some walls. The carpenters were so clever that they hung them on wooden beams, next to the open fireplace... Now I'm going to replace this with steel and I'm wondering if I can do it as follows. In the first picture, it's the current construction. I'm thinking of cutting off just enough of the wood that goes against the firewall, then putting in a square tube
xulionation: Those of you who watched Fuskbyggarna earlier tonight. To brace the intermediate floor, the carpenters used a steel beam that they placed directly against the beams. What type is it and what is it called? Any link?
Ola78: Did a calculation on your floor structure here http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/byggbeskrivningar/dimensionering.aspx. With the amounts you specify, you can even use K18 45*120, but then you don't have much left to utilize. Go in there and calculate, you'll get options for both graded timber and glulam. Normally, most small houses have 45*195 or 45*220 K24 in the floor structure unless there are
lavin: Ok, so the umpteenth question on this subject! Can you have multiple layers of floor joists? Conditions: classic 6-part plan in a house from 1903. brick on the ground floor, upper floor under the rafters (hipped, broken roof). Wooden floor structure between the ground and upper floors. Rafters run across the direction of the house's length. Completely normal. There is a wall under the ridge of
singemoller: Of course, I meant a beam placed on its edge; if the staircase has a vertical stringer, it's not a staircase but a ladder...? I'm planning to recess spotlights in my staircase, a straight staircase with walls on both sides. I'm thinking of drilling holes in the middle of the height for the spotlights, and then a smaller hole from above to feed the cable down. Then, run the cable from top to
BorgP: Yes, of course.:blushing: Sat and planned a bit, and the frustration over my ignorance became too much. Will return with a sketch.
Stefan Tall: Polycarbonate can be cut with virtually "anything" (handsaw, jigsaw, circular saw, etc.) without it cracking, and drilling, screwing, etc. is easy. Here is a good instructional video on how to cut plastic sheets with a circular saw. I use this method for both polycarbonate (Lexan) and acrylic (Plexiglas, Perspex, Altuglas) in thicknesses from 3mm and up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqtKH8VfRcI
Caspár: [citat] I used a guide rail where I cut them and a jigsaw when I needed to make a hole in the middle of a few pieces. Where I used the jigsaw, there were naturally some chips, but it was just a matter of brushing them off.
Tyresö: "Gustavsson" First of all, you should never paint a concrete structure before it is at least 6 months old - the construction needs time to dry out. Then, you can't paint with just any paint - it must be a paint that "breathes" - I can't quite remember what type of paint it is, I think it's latex paint or something... As for whether painting the horizontal concrete surface protects it from
shadowfire: [citat] Or wood screw, depending on what kind of boxes they are. I discovered that the ones from byggmax don't use machine screws but sheet metal screws (!) in the plastic. Extension rings with screws are really expensive, like 4 for 60 SEK or something. It's okay if it's just the living room though.
_bystrom_: [citat] Yes, laminated wood is treated just like any other piece of wood. What might look a bit unattractive when you apply knot sealer to laminated wood is that the spots where you apply the knot sealer appear as "shiny spots" on the otherwise slightly grained surface. To get around this problem, you need an oil-based primer - you skip the knot sealer and prime the whole thing with an oil primer
kwattro: Thank you for the detailed response! I don't know if I will need to insulate the garage space under the deck and therefore choose to keep that option open. So even if you did it excellently, I will probably build with sloping rafters and longitudinal beams to screw the decking into later. Grateful for tips on good roofing felt or similar. Regards, Thomas
Magnus Ladulås: One could say that both are correct, given their premises. An uninsulated slab without underlying moisture barrier and increased underfloor heating during the heating season reduces moisture migration up into the slab during the heating season because the slab becomes temporarily warmer than the ground. All else being equal. And, as mentioned above, turning off underfloor heating in the summer
para: Language courses as well, good to be able to talk to your cheap craftsmen, Polish, etc..