Then callGustavsson said:
http://www.weber.se/33573/
They will explain exactly what kind of concrete suits your needs. Also remember to clean the surface (preferably with a pressure washer) and prime before you do a repair casting. Also remember to reinforce (5 mm iron) and plug in reinforcement into the existing structure.
Explain that you want a type of concrete, either with a low VCT-value or high K-value. If you are going to cast with that concrete quality in high summer heat - mix with ice-cold water and work quickly, the open time is then about 15 - 20 min.
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can't you buy a sack?
the rest can be used for something fun
the rest can be used for something fun
You can find inspiration for small concrete projects on this website http://www.finja.se/Page____1001.aspx?PageID=56
some cast pots for your mother or yourself?
Yes, that would have been an option, but it is surely possible to find uses for it if it were just a sack. If there had been a sack that contained the right mix from the start, I would have absolutely taken it, but unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the case. By the way, it is not a repair casting; it's a completely new casting because the previous one was so damaged and cracked, probably from when the house was built, which was 90 years ago, so it no longer held the stairs in place.
Tyresö: thanks for those links, there is quite a bit to look at there, and I should probably give them a call and see what they say.
Tyresö: thanks for those links, there is quite a bit to look at there, and I should probably give them a call and see what they say.
The worst strindbergare for a lousy drainage edge... Buy a bag of fine concrete at byggmax.... about 40 bucks.... Mix with water to a plastic consistency.... Spread it where you want it..... 2 days after, remove any mold..... Then just enjoy....
Haha, well not just an overflow edge, it also needs to hold a heavy marble staircase against the wall so it doesn't move if someone walks on it, but the thing is, there's salt involved in the equation. There's also a sand bottom under the staircase (not my doing, and it probably weighs around 200kg so I can't move it) so it needs to hold up to various stresses and preferably some saltwater too, just in case my mother forgets, which wouldn't surprise me.
However, it seemed now that there was no regular type of concrete that could last for this except special concrete that can't be obtained as a private individual, though simpler mixtures were suggested that could perhaps last a few more years and that's perfectly fine.
However, it seemed now that there was no regular type of concrete that could last for this except special concrete that can't be obtained as a private individual, though simpler mixtures were suggested that could perhaps last a few more years and that's perfectly fine.
Hahaha, I can comment on your concrete recipe too. Absolutely right to mix a plastic consistency - S2 (slump 50 - 100) with a fine concrete bag because it gives a fairly low WCR value of about 0.50 and a K value of about 30.Milkshaken said:
Buy a bag of fine concrete at byggmax.... around 40 kronor.... Mix it with water to a plastic consistency.... Spread it where you want it..... 2 days later, remove any form..... Then just enjoy....
The problem is that such a construction requires a K value of about 50 because the concrete does not contain about 5% air pore content which counteracts surface frost explosion in the winter and moss growth in the summer.
Then a WCR value of less than 0.40 is needed so that the concrete gets an exposure class and protection equivalent to XD3 (cyclic wet and dry surface with corrosion from chloride other than seawater).
But it might need an exposure class called XS1, which means protection against "airborne salt" - mom salts the stairs....
Though I suspect that with that exposure class they mean airborne salt via evaporating saltwater (west coast).
How does it turn out if you paint it quite thickly with some outdoor paint? Sealed against surface frost damage (?) and keeps moss from settling, which admittedly wouldn't be the end of the world as I would think it wears off. She also lives no more than about 700 meters from the sea, so there's both salt from her and surely some portion from the sea.
"Gustavsson"
First of all, you should never paint a concrete structure before it is at least 6 months old - the construction needs time to dry out. Then, you can't paint with just any paint - it must be a paint that "breathes" - I can't quite remember what type of paint it is, I think it's latex paint or something...
As for whether painting the horizontal concrete surface protects it from freeze-thaw cycles, I really have no idea - I've never had to worry about that because everything I cast on our property is high-grade factory-mixed concrete.
I always use - through certain concrete factories here in Stockholm, self-developed and lab-tested concrete formulas for my own concrete projects at home, which are far beyond the construction requirements for strength, and I do this simply because I can.
As for being 700 m from the sea... definitely, it has an impact.
First of all, you should never paint a concrete structure before it is at least 6 months old - the construction needs time to dry out. Then, you can't paint with just any paint - it must be a paint that "breathes" - I can't quite remember what type of paint it is, I think it's latex paint or something...
As for whether painting the horizontal concrete surface protects it from freeze-thaw cycles, I really have no idea - I've never had to worry about that because everything I cast on our property is high-grade factory-mixed concrete.
I always use - through certain concrete factories here in Stockholm, self-developed and lab-tested concrete formulas for my own concrete projects at home, which are far beyond the construction requirements for strength, and I do this simply because I can.
As for being 700 m from the sea... definitely, it has an impact.