I'm about to start building a custom bookshelf upstairs, about 4m wide & 2.6m high.
I have a separate thread about the back of the bookshelf, and I think that will work out. The shelves are already taken care of since I have a lot of old solid storage shelves that are 800mm, which only need to be sanded and used.
The design itself is also complete, so what remains now is the choice of material for the frame. We want to build with real wood and not with MDF, but I am a bit unsure of what to look for.
Does regular rough sawn timber from places like K-rauta or Byggmax work well for side pieces, etc., or should I look for specific wood?
Everything will be painted with linseed oil paint afterward, the same as for the paneling and moldings in the rest of the room.
Andreas
I have a separate thread about the back of the bookshelf, and I think that will work out. The shelves are already taken care of since I have a lot of old solid storage shelves that are 800mm, which only need to be sanded and used.
The design itself is also complete, so what remains now is the choice of material for the frame. We want to build with real wood and not with MDF, but I am a bit unsure of what to look for.
Does regular rough sawn timber from places like K-rauta or Byggmax work well for side pieces, etc., or should I look for specific wood?
Everything will be painted with linseed oil paint afterward, the same as for the paneling and moldings in the rest of the room.
Andreas
Yes, it could possibly work..
The appearance of the wood does play a role in whether the final result is a "living" genuine bookshelf or like a "repainted Billy bookshelf".
But with Pine laminated board, you still get a more vibrant feel than with, for example, MDF?
Follow-up question then.
Is there a big difference in quality? Can you use, for example, Byggmax edge-glued shelves or should you look for finer quality?
The appearance of the wood does play a role in whether the final result is a "living" genuine bookshelf or like a "repainted Billy bookshelf".
But with Pine laminated board, you still get a more vibrant feel than with, for example, MDF?
Follow-up question then.
Is there a big difference in quality? Can you use, for example, Byggmax edge-glued shelves or should you look for finer quality?
Glued laminated wood is probably the answer, and I don't think Byggmax has much worse boards than others.
And with glued laminated wood, you get a much more lively surface than with MDF.
If you're going to use MDF, I think you should build the entire piece of furniture out of MDF, mixing it with solid wood/glued laminated wood/etc just looks odd.
When you paint glued laminated wood, the grain of the wood usually shows quite well, giving a much more lively surface than MDF, which becomes very smooth and "dead".
And with glued laminated wood, you get a much more lively surface than with MDF.
If you're going to use MDF, I think you should build the entire piece of furniture out of MDF, mixing it with solid wood/glued laminated wood/etc just looks odd.
When you paint glued laminated wood, the grain of the wood usually shows quite well, giving a much more lively surface than MDF, which becomes very smooth and "dead".
Avoid Biltema's glue board as it is very uneven in surface. All the grain patterns show through even though it is primed and painted twice with hand sanding between each coat. Otherwise, it's ok.
I actually looked at Biltema's glued timber but Byggmax seems cheaper per m2.Peter_K said:
Otherwise, what you describe about Biltema doesn't seem like a problem for us, as it's perfectly fine if grains show through. In fact, it's even desirable...
We're leaning towards nailing some form of planed/sanded raw paneling as the back of the shelf and using Byggmax's 18x300x2350mm edge-glued pine shelving for the side pieces...
We have a heck of a lot of old storage shelf planks in wood at 1000mm that will become shelf planks after some treatment...
Do you use knot sealer/shellac on glued timber?
Yes, laminated wood is treated just like any other piece of wood. What might look a bit unattractive when you apply knot sealer to laminated wood is that the spots where you apply the knot sealer appear as "shiny spots" on the otherwise slightly grained surface. To get around this problem, you need an oil-based primer - you skip the knot sealer and prime the whole thing with an oil primer since it also locks in the resin from the knots similarly to shellac. If the knots bleed a lot, it might need to be primed twice. This is if the "shiny spots" from shellac are perceived as a problem...clain said: