Building Materials and Construction Technology
Ola78: It is probably a better solution to keep a truss in the middle. The force from the bypassing is then distributed to more trusses if you do it that way, and then maybe the remaining trusses can handle the load without reinforcement, but I'm not entirely sure about that. However, you shouldn't need to reinforce them as much later on in your first example, at least.
raveper: You seem to want to escape authorities etc. Here's something for you. Buy Sealand http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sealand
trekko: Yes, I found the tips useful, thanks once again! Plus points to you =)
gadeberg: Hello! Now the fireplace is starting to get going. I was thinking (if it exists) of having some form of tile or klinkers inside the fireplace. That is, where the actual fire is. Is there something that works for this if you don't want the yellow firebrick?
Jan-Å: Finished sounds good, that's something I wanted to hear (I have a Jeep to work on, so the house should preferably be done now :rolleyes:) Lucky I have flexible working hours, I'll check with the builders' merchants tomorrow.
Jan-Å: Sorry that I'm bad at miracles ;) most of the things I've done on the houses we've built and renovated have ended up costing more than initially thought :O I'm not quite sure how nivell works, so it's possible that it takes care of the radon as well, where does the moisture and radon ventilate out to then?
Newman: Hello. I am in the process of scraping paint from my basement walls in a future bathroom. The plan was to remove the paint, then smooth with Ardex F5 putty, and then tile. However, I've now discovered that the plaster, which appears to be cement-based, is strongly adhered to the hollow stone but not at all where the hollow stone is grouted. The grout is extremely porous and significantly lighter
fsn: [citat] I have a new basement with 20 cm of cellplast under the slab and lecavägger with platonmat outside and good drainage. Everything built on and backfilled with blasting stones so external water seems unlikely. According to Beckers professional store, regular indoor paint also allows moisture to pass through. I think I'll paint the ceiling with regular paint and see how it goes. I was
vojma: [citat] It will likely be difficult to put double plasterboard (or single for that matter) on both sides if you're only going to have a 50 mm gap between the walls.
Jan-Å: I was mostly thinking that self-leveling compound is a product specifically for smoothing out an uneven surface, it becomes functional to use the "right" way. But a thin layer is harder with concrete, I think there might be a minimum thickness actually, without being an expert in that area, concrete is cheaper and it probably works too if you cast a sufficiently thick layer.
petersson79: Yes, it looked quite reasonable and in the order I had in mind roughly. But we're only going to lay parquet on the old plank floor, and you don't want to have the walls on top of it, so the walls will come first. But I think to move forward a bit faster, I'll probably do the walls before the ceiling since the kitchen will arrive soon. It feels like the ceiling can be done later, and of course,
Disneygrisen: Where can you find a wide range of moldings? I've been searching like crazy at all the big hardware stores. I'm looking for a 69 mm baseboard. I thought it wouldn't be that difficult, but the problem is that the type of baseboard I want should be about 17 mm in THICKNESS. Length and width are no problem... but the thickness. I was planning to just replace one in the bedroom. I would prefer not to
mycke_nu: There is so much in the USA, but then it will be an American house, to American standards.
Mats: Surveys, project work, TV programs It is not allowed for companies, organizations, or students to conduct market surveys, request help with school work, or seek participants for TV programs via our forum. Therefore, the thread will be closed, but before I do so, here's a tip to read through parts of this forum. There are already a lot of good tips. Have you tried the library? There is a lot there
yoxler: I have a house from '44 with a concrete foundation. The house got an extension, and the basement was expanded, making part of the old foundation's exterior, which was partially underground, a part of the interior wall. In the pictures, you can see the new part against the old foundation. To the problem: I have found two cracks and chipped away loose plaster. But as you can see in the pictures, it
petersson79: If you look at the top of this section of the forum, you will find a pinned thread named "Handla byggmaterial utomlands" - it might help you...
dextrocell: Yes exactly, through bolt = machine-threaded bolt that goes through the staircase, the wall, and is tightened with a nut on the other side of the wall. Also put a compact laminate sheet on the back to distribute the load a bit more. How is the staircase itself constructed? Is the stringer flush against the wall or with spacers/freestanding? What exactly is the wall made of? Check the Fischer
tallmilan: No, and not even a disaster as you referred to in the first post... 10 years without light would, however, be a disaster
TMA-1: Thank you for the response. It's probably more the structure that bothers us, as you mentioned. It becomes very striped from the grooves/profiles in the planks.
kinshasa: Thanks for the input - I feel at least a little calmer now.
Enk Projektet: Not concrete tiles on an 8-degree slope.... :)
VernaMats: Hello We have a summer house in the style of functionalism with a low-pitched almost completely flat roof. We now want to add insulation to the roof in conjunction with applying a new waterproof layer (felt) and possibly replacing parts of the roof boards if necessary. We believe there may be some insulation, likely wood shavings, in the "ceiling structure." The house is from the 1930s and was
Dalbotant: Eek! Don't say that, I have loads of wood under the stairs! :) Considering that my house mostly consists of treetex boards, I'm doomed the day it catches fire, it just goes swoosh. Darn, now I'm going to think it's not the mice I hear in the walls anymore but the house borer. ;)
Jan-Å: We have painted fabric here and there because my wife at home thinks it's nice. It gives some life to the wall, I prefer it to a smooth wall just like I prefer panels that give a checkered pattern on the ceiling rather than smooth ceilings. But it's a matter of taste, so there's no right or wrong.
bybbo: When I moved into my apartment 17 years ago, there were both cracks and flakes in the bedroom ceiling. I filled and painted with oil-based paint. In recent years, the cracks and flakes have reappeared, and it looks quite bad. I have tried removing paint from parts of the ceiling. Under the oil-based paint, there seems to be glue paint, and under that, maybe something else that can be washed away
Danne1: It is true that you should insulate from the outside so that the moisture can migrate outward. I have also renovated my basement, but I started with re-draining and put podrän panels on the outside. I also built new walls on the inside with an air gap, then I framed with metal studs and insulated. Then an OSB and drywall.
passenger: [citat] I've actually considered Steni Terra around the house, but that's in the future. Then you could indeed "fake" around this too. Hmm.
_bystrom_: I wouldn't try screwing, it's easy to fail with that. It's usually about extremely small movements that cause creaking, and a well-placed screw can lock it enough to remove the creak, but I think the method with PU glue leaves less room for failure, plus it solves the problem in the long term, which screwing rarely does... I also think it's completely silly not to glue everything together when
verktygsgurun: [citat] Downpipes, gutters, roof sheets, etc., rust if cut with an angle grinder or similar cutting disc.
janwide: I can mention that I was cutting with an angle grinder OUTDOORS in a brick wall. It was unbearably dusty. So I had to stop. The reciprocating saw worked much better!