Building Materials and Construction Technology
petersson79: Thank you. By using screw adhesives, I can also adjust the slight misalignment... There is so much around bathrooms that soon it won't be possible to build bathrooms due to all the regulations...
Jan-Å: That looks good, right? The level of ambition will increase with experience and knowledge, if you try a few more times you'll soon be stuck in the renovation swamp :P
_bystrom_: For what reason do you want to "seal"? Because gaps in the floor shouldn't mean an open path down to the joists? Skimping and buying regular chipboard, sure it might work - and it probably will. Glue and screw the boards to avoid creaking etc. But for some reason, it still feels a bit half-hearted...
ToA: Maybe a dumb question, but...... is it okay to insulate with foam plastic? I had the impression that it was not so good considering fire gases, etc.
andreas0930: a bit tragicomic that...=) But I don't want to lower the floor; I want to cast the floor at the same height. Just want to work safely while digging.
f91jsw: There is another episode of Grand Designs where a forester is granted an exemption to build a house with straw walls in a nature reserve in England.
på landet: Hello, I am having the same thoughts as you in the thread, my concern has been resolved like yours regarding the roofing and ventilation, but above looks good. My other problem, however, has been how to build a safe railing/fence around the balcony since one should avoid penetrations in the roof, how have you done/thought about that? Best regards, //H
isolde: [citat] Did you use battens or steel profiles? Did you use reinforced plaster compound like Knauf Uniflott? Did you use joint tape between the ceiling and walls? It usually depends on the preparation work.
sankaboy: I have tried to find information on how a chimney is constructed and why this solution might have been chosen but can't find anything. Is there anyone else here who might know more for sure?
Yrrol: Spot on, I'll have to ask them to order this.. much appreciated.. :)
antoos: I managed to relieve the roof truss today; it was a "bängligt" job since it was cramped and not at all that simple. Since my roof has been renovated using the layer-on-layer technique, I'm wondering if you think all the wood needs to be removed. The chimney sweep commented on the roof truss that was leaning, but on top of the roof truss there was a batten, and on that, there were wooden shingles
Blindnit: Here, the ceiling is good but the floor is worse. Different layers there.
Flanharry: Hello, I need to seal the plastic at the waist of our 1 3/4 house. I am wondering if anyone has found a clever method to seal the plastic at each stud where the floor joist intersects at the waist. I am considering cutting the plastic in the middle of the stud and securing a piece of masonite onto the plastic against the stud on both sides. I hope you understand what I mean. From the outside to
Yrrol: Although you have to be quite tall to put things up there, standing on something becomes a necessity anyway. I thought it could become the "secret" or private drawer... Maybe also add a lock cylinder through the hatch, so the kids can feel like they have their own cabinet that no one rummages through... (the build is in two bedrooms) But yes, as mentioned, it might be better to have a full door
Mikael_L: What you should consider is that with huntonit and other ceiling panels, you will get a small V-phase between the boards, which becomes a small gap between the wall and the ceiling. A gap that allows sound and light to pass between the rooms. More sound than one often thinks. So seal this after you have framed the wall. You can apply a little acrylic sealant there, preferably on both sides. But
Ola78: I have done exactly this in our house. I first called the chimney sweep and he said, just like you wrote, that the old walls were no problem, but where I was to build new ones, he said that I should start framing the wall at least 10 cm from the chimney stack and leave air between the chimney stack and the frame. However, you could connect with wood-based sheet material or other cladding against
anaitis: If the beams continue beyond the end wall, i.e., if they extend over 2 spans, then the position at the end wall is the absolute worst point to weaken the beams. It is where the greatest stress, tension, occurs.
byggare henke: they are really good. but you should use them properly.
kirderf83: Thanks for all the tips! Momin: Very pedagogically drawn, I understood exactly what you meant, for once :-) The idea is that it will stand on legs since we have a plaster wall behind and I don't want to bother unnecessarily.
interista: I have checked Stenbolaget, Dekora, and Flisaby. They have lots of nice options, but not what I'm looking for. The one from Norsk Steinmiljö is also more manageable than many other natural stones as it weighs almost half of most that I have seen. I'm a bit worried about how my walls will handle the weight of the stones. Ardex: I will try calling Stenbolaget.
lordmetroid: Does anyone have any experiences with the pros and cons of traditional log houses versus houses built with laminated timber?
Enk Projektet: It will be a solution with a sheet metal gutter...
Stefan Bengtsson: [citat] ...so the color doesn't indicate whether it's tempered or not. Tricky to rely on that. Same with polished edges: You can polish edges on non-tempered glass. If you break the glass, there will be very many small pieces if the glass was tempered; otherwise, there will be large sharp shards. THEN you know. But then it's too late. :S --> TS: Why do you want to know if the glass is tempered?
Forbo: depends a bit on what it's about. Our local store is cheaper than BM on most lumber because we have free shipping and a 15% general discount... but when I needed wet room boards and self-leveling compound, I got prices that were more expensive than most places... even with shipping included! This is because the local store didn't have a large volume of just that. He wanted over 500 SEK for the
gurraj71: Bought Moelven's Rough, really nice. And as I mentioned, it's become common, now that we have it I see it everywhere...
Milkshaken: A little trivia: A load-bearing wall that runs straight through a floor is called a "Hjärtvägg".... Anyway, I find it hard to believe there would be any issues with tearing down the one you want, what do you have above? As always with such projects, I suggest you prop up just alongside if there is the opportunity... is it a wooden floor or a concrete floor? If it's concrete, you don't need to
jimmyboy_666: One tip is to do what we've done. However, it's definitely not the cheapest option. We hired an architect who designed the extension, which is 30 square meters, and at the same time, a new sloping roof over our garage, which had a flat roof before and needed fixing. We then had a construction company excavate and pour the foundation, erect the walls, and complete the entire roof with felt and
Facket: Robban: That doesn't sound too bad! I guess it will work itself out on site as you say, but I'm trying to ease the construction process by making most mistakes on the drawing board instead of having to make changes to something already completed, if you know what I mean. :P John: The idea is to have a hayloft over the stable part, and storage above the garage. I basically have to separate them,
prototypen: Tap on the ceiling, where it sounds dull there is a joist. Protte