Found Moelven's design program and entered measurement data to determine what I should use for the floor joists of a villa with a span of 6500mm. If I place the joists at 30cc, glulam beams with dimensions from 66x315 to 140x225 are recommended, with deflection control ranging from 1.0mm to 1.5mm and a column load of 3.3 to 3.4kN... or if I want to use Kerto beams, the dimensions are 45x300 to 75x600 with deflection control ranging from 1.4mm to 0.2mm, column load 3.2 to 3.6kN.
Now I have a few questions...
1, Is it not possible to use strength-graded timber for the floor joists?
2, Can strength-graded timber be found at Byggmax, or at least Beijer or similar?
3, I need timber for roof trusses with a width of both 4m and 6.5m, does the timber for these need to be strength-graded? It will be a regular gable roof and assume clay tiles will be placed on the roof... this weight must also matter, right?
4, How many kN can a wall built of 350mm thick Ergotherm blocks withstand?
5, In one area of the house, the second-floor wall will be offset inward a bit so that the load from the upstairs wall (2-story villa) will rest on a floor joist... Here I need to use a steel beam... But what dimension? The house is 4m wide right there.
Is there more I should consider regarding floor joists or roof trusses?
Now I have a few questions...
1, Is it not possible to use strength-graded timber for the floor joists?
2, Can strength-graded timber be found at Byggmax, or at least Beijer or similar?
3, I need timber for roof trusses with a width of both 4m and 6.5m, does the timber for these need to be strength-graded? It will be a regular gable roof and assume clay tiles will be placed on the roof... this weight must also matter, right?
4, How many kN can a wall built of 350mm thick Ergotherm blocks withstand?
5, In one area of the house, the second-floor wall will be offset inward a bit so that the load from the upstairs wall (2-story villa) will rest on a floor joist... Here I need to use a steel beam... But what dimension? The house is 4m wide right there.
Is there more I should consider regarding floor joists or roof trusses?
1. Yes, but it can be difficult to find in the dimensions you have obtained and likely need to be even thicker.
2. I have seen graded timber at Byggmax in larger dimensions, I don't remember which grade it was, they do not market it as graded, so you can probably only count on luck if you find graded timber there.
For roof trusses, it should normally be graded timber. Read other threads here about it. It is often cheaper, better, and easier to buy ready-made roof trusses from the factory. Additionally, you will receive construction calculations for them tailored to your house from the factory. Otherwise, you must hire a structural engineer for construction drawings; they need to be prepared by someone with documented knowledge.
5. Not sure if I understand, but if it is just a non-load-bearing interior wall that applies pressure, the load from it is almost negligible. The floor structure should be rated for 200 kg per sqm. An interior wall weighs 50 - 70 kg per linear meter.
Consider if you can shorten the span with a transverse steel beam, it can be embedded in the floor structure so it doesn't make it thicker. You have somewhat suspiciously large glued laminated beams with a small center-to-center distance. Have an engineer look at it. It doesn't need to be particularly expensive, and you probably still need to obtain "certified" construction drawings.
A common mistake when dimensioning on your own is to consider the load at the support points for a beam and ensure the house can bear that load all the way down to the foundation.
2. I have seen graded timber at Byggmax in larger dimensions, I don't remember which grade it was, they do not market it as graded, so you can probably only count on luck if you find graded timber there.
For roof trusses, it should normally be graded timber. Read other threads here about it. It is often cheaper, better, and easier to buy ready-made roof trusses from the factory. Additionally, you will receive construction calculations for them tailored to your house from the factory. Otherwise, you must hire a structural engineer for construction drawings; they need to be prepared by someone with documented knowledge.
5. Not sure if I understand, but if it is just a non-load-bearing interior wall that applies pressure, the load from it is almost negligible. The floor structure should be rated for 200 kg per sqm. An interior wall weighs 50 - 70 kg per linear meter.
Consider if you can shorten the span with a transverse steel beam, it can be embedded in the floor structure so it doesn't make it thicker. You have somewhat suspiciously large glued laminated beams with a small center-to-center distance. Have an engineer look at it. It doesn't need to be particularly expensive, and you probably still need to obtain "certified" construction drawings.
A common mistake when dimensioning on your own is to consider the load at the support points for a beam and ensure the house can bear that load all the way down to the foundation.
Did a calculation on your floor structure here http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/byggbeskrivningar/dimensionering.aspx. With the amounts you specify, you can even use K18 45*120, but then you don't have much left to utilize. Go in there and calculate, you'll get options for both graded timber and glulam. Normally, most small houses have 45*195 or 45*220 K24 in the floor structure unless there are special conditions.